I have the new switch and was planning on installing it this weekend...the only problem is that I cannot find any details about the switch in my CD-ROM manuals.

Any suggestions as to which module I should look under or any tips on the install would be great.

It may not be there - could be considered transmission related and included there. The Haynes manual has it, I suspect Alldata has it (at some public libraries) and there's quite a bit of info here with a search. It is a good idea to get some instructions - there's a sort of intricate alignment issue.

I am not familiar w/your model; however if it is anything like the W123 cars, disconnect the linkage, then remove the adjustment plate while noting the position of the adjusting screw, and then remove the switch. It's not really difficult if you have enough light and room to move about.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

The switch is tight, but straight foward to replace.
It is mounted to the trans with 2 10mm bolts. The bolt holes are oblonged for rotational adjustment.
The only tricky part for first timers is the plug has a white locking ring on it that requires you to turn the ring to the unlock position in order to unplug the harness..and there is also a pin in the sw. acyating lever that has to line up with the hole on the shift arm to lock that into proper location upon reassembly..but that is pretty much evident once you are down there.
Adjustment is correct when you have a starter engagement in both N and P and back-up lamps in R.
You may also want to take a look at the shifter rod rubber bushing for wear while you are there ..they are usually worn and simple/cheap to replace.

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A Dalton

You may find that dropping the transmission pan makes it easier to get to the bolts of the switch.

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

If anything , disconnecting the rear mount would be easier than dropping the trans pan for additional clearance.
Dropping the pan means draining/refilling the fluid.. unless you are doing a Fluid/Filter change anyway............

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A Dalton

Good point.

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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled)
1994 E420, 200,000+ miles
1995 E420, 201,000 miles

I was planning to do this also, but from the sound of it I'll wait until my next transmission service, while the car is on the left. Sounds like too much can go wrong.

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

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Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

replaced the switch, thanks for the help guys. As usual, it took twice as long as I thought. I was not really difficult just hard to get to. (I don't think removing the pan would have helped btw.)

After the 2 hours I just had to drill out the rivets of the old switch to see what the deal was. turns out its like a window switch with springs and contact surfaces that are moved by plastic levers. It's hard to tell in the pictures, but the insides looked like a gummed up, oxidized window switch. Makes sense that it would only give me trouble in the cool mornings after a night of cooling down outside. Might have been some moisture in there.

Either way, the new one works great. the adjustments were not that hard, I just set it more or less like the old one.

Thanks again for the tips.



-John

After

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The cold weather issue is exactly what I am experiencing. You make it sound straightforward, so I may just do mine myself. Would you share, very briefly, how you accessed and removed/replaced the switch?

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

I rolled it up on ramps, blocked both rear tires and started the process of removing the linkage first (oh, unplug the connector first, unlock the white ring clockwise or "up" as you are laying on your back) it's a ten millimeter bolt and nut, easy access.

Next i removed the 10mm bolt toward the front using a 10mm on a 1/4 inch drive, i have a slim one, if yours is bulky, it might not work.

Then i removed the rear 10 mm bolt. it was kind of a pain as it's more difficult to access and that damn linkage keeps falling down on you.

I had the car in park and was careful to replace everything in the exact same order as i removed it.

Again, not that hard just take your time and don't be in a rush.

A great helper is the telescoping magnet so you can guide the bolts into place once you get the new switch in place. I got them on 90% of the way just using my hand then put the 10mm socket to it.

I a big fan of wearing gloves but this job is just too tight with them on plus you need the feel of your fingertips to get those bolts started and threaded correctly.

Good luck.

-John

Thanks for the how-to. Sounds simple enough.

This linkage you describe; is it an element of the switch or is it connected to the shifter rod?

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

I plan to do this this job next weekend. Of these tools, which would make this job easiest:

1. Slim 10mm ratcheting wrench
2. Slim 10mm ratchet
3. Flexible 10mm ratcheting wrench
4. Flexible 10mm ratchet
5. One of those tiny Titan(?) gearless ratchets sold at Griots

Thanks.

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

There is an easy way to adjust the switch. You will notice that there is a hole through the plastic pin that engages with the shift lever mechanism. When the switch is in the 'N' position this hole lines up with a hole in the switch housing.
So, with the shift selector in 'N', rotate the switch so that a 4mm pin can be inserted through the hole in the pin and into the switch housing. Tighten the two screws and you are done.
This information is in the transmission repair reference material.

I had a local garage, not mb specialist but with a good reputation, replace the NSS two years ago after I couldnt start my car on cold days in either P or N. Many months after replacement, just for fun I tried to start the car in N, but it wouldn't start; it only starts in P. Would that suggest the NSS was bad or not properly aligned? Thanks.

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87 300e (white/black; amg body kit)
88 300ce (red/cream; amg body kit)
93 300ce cabrio (white/blue/blue top)
93 300ce cabrio (black/grey/black top)
98 ml 320 (totaled @ 137,000 miles)
99 clk320 (black/grey/black top)