While checking the K jetronic CIS fuel injection system on my M110.988, I noticed that my warm up regulator has a screw sticking out of one side. It is the correct part for my engine Bosch 0 438 140 103 or MB 110-070-00-62 so it has not been swapped.

Original here http://www.specialtauto.com/mercedes-parts/images/warm-up-regulator-140-103.jpg

I understand that a WUR can be modified to allow adjustment, but I thought it was the other side that received a hole. Not sure if this screw is an adjustment, thought it held on the heating element.

Last highway tank, all highway mileage was 12.6 miles per gallon, running about 75-80 mph. Also pulled the fuel injectors to check for leaks or a bad spray pattern, they appear to be original. Anything else to do while I have the injection lines and the fuel distributor off the intake manifold to replace the boot?

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The WUR makes these things fly or waddle, depending on it's health. Tampered with, you have to hope the person who did it had a clue. Personally, it's worth the 300$ or so to get a rebuilt one. But as you've noticed "YMMV".

-CTH

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- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Those vacuum lines are not attached properly.

There should be a 7mm vacuum line coming out of the port that is to the right of the electrical plug going to the bottom of the intake then a 4mm vacuum hose from the AUX air valve to smaller port the side of the WUR.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

Mercy, my apologies for not mentioning that I removed those vacuum lines when I removed the fuel distributor.

oh i see.

__________________
1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg

To get the adjustment right, you need a CIS fuel pressure gauge to measure the cold control pressure that the WUR regulates. But if you don't, and everything else is up to snuff, you can try pulling the brass plug upwards very slightly by tightening the nut down against the WUR body by a 1/4 turn or so. This will lean out the cold fuel mixture.

If the car starts to hesitate or stumble when cold, you turned it too far. Back the nut off slightly and tap the plug back down. I've seen a definite gas mileage improvement using this adjustment since mine was running way rich, though I think it only affects fuel consumption during warm-up.

PS - Do not under any circumstances turn the threaded screw that goes down into the brass plug, only turn the nut.

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1985 380SE Blue/Blue - 230,000 miles
2012 Subaru Forester 5-speed
2005 Toyota Sienna
2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible
1999 Toyota Tacoma

This is definitely not stock. It's a modification to be able to move the position of the bi-metal element that controls warm-up. You tap it down to increase enrichment during warm-up, and as noted, lift it up by turning the nut to lean it.

You really need a gauge to do this.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

I've got a worse problem with my 85 euro 280E. I understand the basics of the system from working on problems with my 6.9 but when my car was federalized, aka butchered, they removed the steel lines that should come from the WUR and replaced them with some weird rubber lines and a very weird dual connection to the fuel distributor for the control pressure line. The fuel damper is also not factory. Just curious if your engine is a euro or us version? Here's a pic of my problem below. Please email me at etmerritt33@hotmail.com if you see this and can just let me know on the euro or us version question.

Replace those rubber with steel ASAP, there's in excess of 90psi going thru those lines...an engine fire in the making...

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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FACEBOOK: PANZER450

Those have got to be metal lines covered with rubber.

That looks like a frequency valve, it's not a damper. It looks like they added it to change control pressure in response to oxygen sensor voltage changes. If you follow the wires, you should find a little computer that's controlling the valve. I had this same arrangement on a '84 280SL and it seemed to work OK.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Advice for the person that started this thread.....take your WUR off and send it to CIS Flow Tech, Larry Fletcher, and have him rebuild and recalibrate it for you. I just completed a project to remove all the federalized parts and returned the K-Jet to OEM. Larry custom built a 103 WUR for me and we used all factory parts and connections.

Got the car back yesterday and my wife and I took it out for a back country road test run today of about 70 miles. My car is a factory 5 spd and the difference in the fuel injection system after the project is very significant to say the least. The car runs like a bat out of hell, pulls strongly to the redline, never misses a beat, and idles perfectly. I'm guessing it cost me about $ 1200 to do the conversion and it was well worth it. Prior to the conversion the car ran poorly, missed and lerched under load, and just was not satisfying to drive. Most people that know these cars say that they never ran right after being federalized and if so, not for very long. There is no documentation available for the electronics that was used on my car.

Larry Fletcher knows his stuff, is reasonable and quick, and is helpful and willing to share information. You can't go wrong if you have him rebuild your WUR. By the way, the # 103 is the correct WUR for your car. It's the last version of the WUR. Make sure you have your atmospheric and vacuum lines connected correctly. The vacuum port is on the back of the intake manifold, nearest the firewall. Mine had been plugged with a screw for 25 years!!

- Tom Merritt

i know this is an old thread buy what all was done to go from federalized back to oem. Ive picked up an 84 280e 4 speed and would like to remove all the conversion crap

1) Identify the engine model. On the left side, upper surface of the cylinder block is found the #. It will be in the form of 110.9xx 10 xxxxx. It is stamped into the block surface; it is not a casting #.

2) If the engine is a non-US version [gray market] that has been brought into DOT compliance, reversing the process should be quite straight forward. In the event that it was originally a US or Canadian car, there will be a bit more involved.

car was bought in Germany and converted. still has euro bumpers(metal beams behind them) headlights cloth seats manual windows and sunroof I found the computer that the o2 sensor is hooked up to. the car still has original importers name on a sticker on the b piller

Generally, they added a catalytic converter, an oxygen sensor, and some plumbing to vary the mixture slightly at idle to keep the cat healthy. This was done with a little control unit wired to the oxygen sensor, and then to a frequency valve to vary the control pressure. I've also seen a charcoal canister to catch crankcase fumes.

__________________
Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe