Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 07-16-2010, 07:01 AM
LarryBible
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
There you go! A good used one would be less trouble, probably less expen$e and take away any concern you might have about your welding skill.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 07-16-2010, 07:26 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Oregon, Illinois (about 100 miles due west of Chicago)
Posts: 354
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible View Post
There you go! A good used one would be less trouble, probably less expen$e and take away any concern you might have about your welding skill.
I'm totally convinced that a good used one is the only way to go. Several forum members have contacted me saying they have one. I'm just trying to sort out who has the correct part at a good price.

So far I can't understand if all w126s use the same one or if they are different. Hopefully it will all come together in the next day or so. I'm anxious to get it fixed. While I'm at it I plan to install new shocks and thicker spring spacers to hopefully correct the camber.
__________________
2000 Mercedes S500
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
1970 Triumph Spitfire
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 07-16-2010, 01:46 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by bolomiester View Post
I'm totally convinced that a good used one is the only way to go. Several forum members have contacted me saying they have one. I'm just trying to sort out who has the correct part at a good price.

So far I can't understand if all w126s use the same one or if they are different. Hopefully it will all come together in the next day or so. I'm anxious to get it fixed. While I'm at it I plan to install new shocks and thicker spring spacers to hopefully correct the camber.
From what I have read here there are two types of trailing arms - steel and aluminium. Both fit on the w126 and w123 models.

Are you aware about the differential mount that can also cause sagging - I assume that is causing an incorrect camber on your rear wheels?

It is worth your while checking the length of your uncompressed springs before re-assembling your suspension and the thickness of your existing rubber spring mounts... I've just put my w123 suspension back together (front and back) putting back in 3 nub rubber mounts after replacing all of the other rubber components. Checking with the data in the FSM the "new" suspension was within limits.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 07-17-2010, 07:10 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: S. Ontario Canuck
Posts: 188
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showpost.php?p=2386499&postcount=53

Quote:
From what I remember the later W123 chassis used the same 126xxx part number rear trailing arm as the 1st gen W126 chassis. At some point in time (79???) there was a change in rear toe spec for the W123. The early W123 chassis also used the 115xxx part. So, I assume only the toe spec was changed. I doubt it will offer any more negative camber. I guess one could make encentric bolts/washers for the bushing holes.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 09-06-2010, 11:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Oregon, Illinois (about 100 miles due west of Chicago)
Posts: 354
Update

I was able to locate a used right side trailing arm, and installed it along with new bushing for both sides. We also replaced the original coil spring shims with new ones that are 14mm thick v. the 9.5mm originals, and new Bilstein comfort shocks. The last step was to have a wheel alignment done.

The rear whels now have the same amount of negative camber. I'm not sure it's the correct amount, but it does look right, and the car no longer has a pull to the right.

I took the car on a 600 mile trip a few days after it was finished and, interestingly enough, the car's mileage improved by 1.5 mpg.

Thanks to everyone that offered advice. Welding was clearly not the way to go. As bad as the rust on the trailing arm looked on the bottom, it was far worst on top. Almost like swiss cheese.

The rust thing is a real mystery. It was only this part and the bracket that holds the fuel pump, fuel acumulator and fuel filter that show any sign of rust, and they were both very badly rusted, the car is otherwise rust-free. ????
__________________
2000 Mercedes S500
1990 Mercedes 560SEL
1970 Triumph Spitfire
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:27 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page