I am missing one of the brass nuts that goes under the car frame that the bolt screws into that holds the car seat frame rails secure to the floorboard. I cannot seem to locate a toggle bolt that is made for a situation like this. Anyone know where I can look? It's about 1.5 inches long and 3/8 inch wide.

Well you could ask the dealer! Otherwise is there a way of temporarily adhering a nut to the underside of the seat rail so that it will hold for you to screw in the bolt?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Well Army, not that I know of because the nut has to be under the CAR FRAME to screw the bolt down through the rails/frame and car body into the securing nut. Does anyone know if that bottom protection section comes off to access from underneath?

I have the same issue, There are two ways to fix this.
A. get a new or used nut and replace
B. use a "nutsert" and a common threaded GRADE 8+ bolt.
either way, the seat needs to be removed, but B is a substitute for not finding nut in plan A.

I have a parts car so I can just go rob on of of it.

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RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

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FACEBOOK: PANZER450

What's the best place to look for those kind of drop in nuts? I was thinking of something like a wall anchor nut/bolt combo but Home Depot only had them for Concrete, bricks, and drywall and muct too long on the bolt side.

Thanks for the tips!

What I did was usw a magnet to fish out the broken nut and then put a little bit of silicone on the nut and used a magnet to guide it into place...set up after a few minutes and carefully threaded the bolt in.

Great idea! But I can't see the darn nut or I would try that but good for future needs and if I do see it somehow when I figure out what I'm gonna try! Great tip!

Thanks,

Steve

or you could drill a 1" hole in the cross member that would allow you access to the backside. This is an area where you really don't want to be skimping on fastener strength.

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

Oh! Great IDEA! So, just drill from the top to get a center point, then go under and widen it?! Then, I can just plug the hole with a rubber grommet! Brilliant and simple!!! I won't hurt anything or drill through anything critical will I?

I'll stop ya right there...

I should have asked earlier...what model of car is this?
in MY car, the front of the seat track is bolted atop a 3"x3" metal crossmember that extends between the center console hump, on my right to the rocker/sill structure (on my left). it is in this cross member I was referring, I don't recommend drilling holes through the floor to the outside, it violates the integrity of the floor and is an entrance for water, dust and rust. Surely you can fine a slip nut that will work, wreckers is your most likely source..

__________________
RIP: 80 300SD
RIP: 79 450SEL
2002 E430 4matic (212,000km)
2002 ML500 'sport'

____________________________
FACEBOOK: PANZER450

Panzer...I have a '91 300E. I can see through the hole to a cavity underneath (about 2" deep) which seems to be covered underneath by a fiberglass or thin metal bottom protection shield. Kind of like the shiled that guards the fuel pumps. My seats are powered. Already had them out and fixed, padded, and reinstalled. That's when I found the bolt would not tighten and secure and compared to the other holes which have a secured brass nut on the underside of the seat frame area.

Steve