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#1
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Quote:
Spit64, this is exactly what I have, once the car warms up (to above 85 on the temp gauge) the shake goes away, and again nothing in reverse or idle. Should I plan on doing all the mounts or does this indicate that it's one specific side or mount? NP
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"If it's not BLOWN, it sucks" 1998 C280 Sport - Member 744 Crew 1988 Toyota MR2-Kompressor(No. 3) 168K+ Miles Prior MB Cars 1974 450SLC & 1985 190E 2.3 Click This Link - IOS, Greece - Get Your Phreak On |
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#2
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You got the torque on passenger side in forward gear so the problem should be the passenger mount. The funny thing is that you say the shake or vibrations goes away when the engine is in the working temperature around 85 you could have another problem no engine misfire or anything like that? I like to change both sides when I do the motor mounts if there is a old car.
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#3
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I had the same problem...91 300E 200K. Replaced the motor mounts and shaking in drive with brakes engaged stopped. I actually had replaced the engine and when I took it out the old motor, the mounts fell apart and one disintegrated into bits.
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#4
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Great to hear some reassurance on this. I haven't done anything yet (we have a spare car fortunately). I have some summer travel plans but I think I'll swap out the motor and trans mounts when I get back in town. I'll update whatever the outcome. So many of these posts seem to never have a final conclusion so hard to tell what the ultimate fixes are for so many. Thanks again!
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#5
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So many of these posts don't have a conclusion so i want to put closure to mine. I got it fixed. I swapped in some good motor mounts from a parts car I have. No change! Still shakes. So I gave up. Without some kind of diagnosis, I couldn't see throwing parts at it. The mounts cost me nothing (and were getting bad anyway) so no harm there. Easy job too, took <1hr to swap them if anyone wonders.
The solution: The #6 cylinder was missing I was told. Half the coil was not firing. Not sure i totally understand that but that was what I was told. He replaced the coil and shaking is gone. Interestingly, it never threw a code to the OBD for this problem. I had all 3 coils out myself and of course couldn't tell anything (I need to learn how to test these things) so I was all over the problem but I stopped short of replacing parts. I just couldn't hear a 'miss' but it was the problem. I got out for $289 so life goes on. I am a little bummed I couldn't figure it out on my own but the car is on the road again. Thanks for all the help and suggetions. Now my diesel 300D is on the fritz so trying to figure that one out over on the other side of the forum. These cars are going to be the end of me! |
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