Hi,
We had cut the timing chain link to replace the chain on my 1987 260E with over 400K miles. Accidently, one side of the chain dropped inside the lower cover. Presently my cylinder head is outside the engine (engine is still in the car). What I was wondering is if anyone has any instructions for me as to how to open the lower timing chain cover ? Or if there is any way to pull the chain back out from the cover ? Ideally, I would like to replace the old chain with an intact chain so as to not have a weak link but any ideas are very welcome.

Thanks, Best, Saumil

__________________
Saumil S. Patel

here's the factory manual-

Untitled Document

with the head off, you've done the hard part, now it's just unbolt a bunch of things, etc. good luck, chuck.

Good news, bad news, good news, and bad news.

Good news: I've never fished the timing chain out, but maybe somebody else on here knows how.

Bad news: if you need to pull the timing cover, you'll have to remove a whole bunch of stuff from the front of the engine.

Bad news: to do the chain at all, you really need the crimper tool.

Good news: can be found on the bay. Search: Mercedes Timing Chain Link Crimper Single/Double Tool,300E,190E,300D,190D,Diesel. Comparatively speaking, price isn't that bad

Thanks for the link to the service manual...
I now have all the steps to take the cover off...
Will try to get the cover off tomorrow.

__________________
Saumil S. Patel

Liquiddog, even if the cover is off, do I still need to cut and crimp the new chain to put it in ?
Thanks

__________________
Saumil S. Patel

some have to be crimped, some have master links and some are 1 piece. you have to look for your options. good luck, chuck.

If the M103 is anything like the M102 you'll find the front cover is attached to the pipe for the oil pump that sits in the bottom of the sump - on my M102 this pipe is also fitted to the first crankshaft bearing cap. Whilst I had read a lot about removing the cover on the M102 I found in practice you need to remove the sump as well - this wasn't mentioned by many (!) - I wonder if this is also the case for the (similar) M103?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I'm looking at this job myself. My plan of attack will be to connect the new chain to old and pull it through so it is automatically routed through the bottom gears.

From what I've read it is a brave DIYer that installs the master link without the crimper. If the chain let's go the pistons go crashing into the valves which totally destroys the engine.

I assume you got a new chain like this:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Images/0039978094-M48.jpg

Although I do see this same company sells a master link with a circlip that maybe negates the nee for the tool. I'd be interested if anybody has used that part without the tool with long term success:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images/Connect-Images/0009973298-M48.jpg

The chain I have is a completely connected chain, there is no break (Febi). And because one end of the chain has dropped, I dont think I can do the chain linking/pulling trick. Is there another chain in front of the timing chain that would prevent a completely connected chain from going in without cutting it ?

__________________
Saumil S. Patel

This is what I have:

1987 Mercedes-Benz 260E Base Sedan - Camshafts & Timing Chains - Page 1

__________________
Saumil S. Patel

Sorry, the link did not include the part, it is this one:
Timing Chain Kit Brand: Febi Bilstein

__________________
Saumil S. Patel

I'm guessing this won't be popular now that you've bought it but if you can get a refund send the Febi back!

IWIS marked chains are the only ones worth fitting. Anything else is considered by many to be unacceptable.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I think the oil pump's chain/sprocket is in front of the timing chain/sprocket on crankshaft, preventing you from easily installing an endless chain even if you remove the lower timing cover.

Also, if you remove the lower timing chain cover, it will be a good idea to replace the front main seal.

__________________
1986 300E (3/2002) Rear ended and totaled (10/2009)
2000 Xterra (5/2000)
1992 400E (11/2009) -Sold
1986 300E (12/2009) - Sold
2004 E500 Wagon (6/2013) - Sold

I had good experiences with a master link.

I replaced a chain on a 380sel and also on a 190e 2.3. Both new chains had the master link with a clip. I had no problems with either new chain. When I talked to my indie, he mentioned being careful not to drop the clip and admitted that he had done so. Obviously he used the master link and clip.

__________________
07 E350 4Matic wagon, 06 S430 4Matic, 99 SLK 230
retired W210 (x3), W124, W126

Does it slide together easily by hand? What I've read is you can create a kink in the chain by hammering it on. I don't know if that was for the type without the clip though.

Retractable magnet is my friend for things like installing circlips.