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  #1  
Old 12-27-2014, 07:52 PM
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97 E320 w210 shifter compatibility.

I need to replace my shifter and am looking for possible years other than 1997 that will work in my car.
A local wrecker has a 50% off sale that I would like to take advantage of but they have no 97's and it's a far drive to just go there and look.
Thanks for any help.

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  #2  
Old 12-27-2014, 08:55 PM
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Have a look on car-part.com , it is a inventory search of participating salvage yards. Enter your cars info then scroll through the listings, you can sort of figure out what cars / years will interchange.

The 722.6 electronic shift 5 speed trans was used in 97 with some cars supposedly having it in 96 ( though they still might be 97 Model Year ). The W / S switch is the key to the car having a 722.6

I'd expect the shifter to be the same until 99 but have no proof. I "think" 2000 up cars had Tip Tronic type shifting ( up a gear / down a gear )
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  #3  
Old 12-28-2014, 01:33 AM
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So from some more reading I believe 96-99 will work.
I do have the 722.6 with the W/S not sure what that does yet as I just got the car and been dealing with limp mode.
I am 98% sure this will solve my problem.
Thanks for your help.
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  #4  
Old 12-28-2014, 08:07 AM
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The W / S switch is Winter / Summer ( or named something similar ) . In summer mode the car starts out in 1st gear , in winter it starts out in 2nd gear to reduce wheel spin. Reverse in winter is a steeper ratio also to reduce wheel spin.

Be sure to scan the car for codes / look at trans data and don't randomly change parts. With a scan tool you will be able to see shifter position.

It is very common for this trans to have a failed conductor plate ( the speed sensors fail ) It is also common for the trans electrical connector to leak and the oil wick up to the trans computer. The fix is a ~ $10 part and cleaning the trans controller with electronic cleaner.

My 97 E320 parts car is in limp most of the time. What is strange is when this occurs, the high beam indicator is on, fog lights are on and a message on the instrument cluster that I don't remember. One time it worked just fine and the lights were out.

Someone else on this board had a similar problem but never posted a fix.
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  #5  
Old 12-28-2014, 04:04 PM
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The conductor plate was done last summer by previous owner.
The plug IS leaking but have read if it is the cause will most likely throw a code.
I bet I need the under hood plug to use a scan tool to see if it's in gear?
I will order a new one anyway as it needs to be replaced and start there.
I have symptoms of the shifter though. Hits hard when selecting a gear like a broken trans. That's what I have read.
I apreaciate the help.
Love the car just want it to work properly.
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  #6  
Old 12-28-2014, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Armstrong View Post
The conductor plate was done last summer by previous owner.
The plug IS leaking but have read if it is the cause will most likely throw a code.
A leak by it's self won't trigger a code as the trans computer has no way of knowing there is a leak.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Armstrong View Post
I bet I need the under hood plug to use a scan tool to see if it's in gear?
Yes, for that year, the 38 pin underhood plug gives full access to the trans computer. You might get some trans data through the engine computer using the under dash OBD 2 connector but it might be limited..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Armstrong View Post
I will order a new one anyway as it needs to be replaced and start there.
I have symptoms of the shifter though. Hits hard when selecting a gear like a broken trans. That's what I have read.
When in limp mode, line pressure goes high as a fail safe, this will give a bang

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Armstrong View Post
I apreaciate the help.
Love the car just want it to work properly.
There are many issues that can cause the trans to go into limp so reading codes / live data is vital.
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  #7  
Old 12-29-2014, 12:08 PM
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FWIW, the gear range selector switch can be replaced (it lives inside the shifter assy.). No need to replace the entire shifter, unless there's a mechanical fault.
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  #8  
Old 12-31-2014, 04:27 PM
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Ok I replaced the leaking plug and no change.
I never cleaned the computer as I couldn't find any computer close to the trans that oil would have contaminated.

I do have some new codes that came up and are leading me to believe the conductor plate is faulty. It has just been replaced so I thought it would be ruled out but the codes speak for themselves.
p0560 system voltage
P0720 output speed sensor circut
P0500 vehicle speed sensor

What do you guys think? Am I headed in the right direction?
I also have noticed my speedometer will sometimes not work properly.
Thanks for any help.
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  #9  
Old 12-31-2014, 08:19 PM
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You need to pull the Mercedes specific code descriptions.

The trans computer is in the passenger side underhood box and is marked EGS. ( It has two plugs )

On the speedo, I'm pretty sure the signal comes from the ABS system over the CAN system so a bad conductor plate won't cause the speedo to act up.
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  #10  
Old 01-02-2015, 05:10 PM
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Any tips for separating the trans controller to clean it or do I just clean the plug part?
Seems like a sealed unit and I don't want to break it.
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  #11  
Old 01-03-2015, 04:14 AM
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Ok got it open and it's clean clean clean.
Turns out the new codes could have been from a small burnout I did after replacing the leaking plug on the trans.
Still getting the p0560 system voltage code.
I have noticed a smell while driving. Couldn't figure out what it was untill I got home and heard a sizzling comming from the battery area.
Looked at the battery and it was a bit swollen, warm and acid was leaking out the side and the vent tube was disconnected.
Figured my battery might be shot so I swapped in the knowen good one out of my DSM and it started sizzling as soon as I started the car.
I don't have a multimeter here to see what sort of voltage is running threw it.
Will test tomorrow.
I am thinking voltage regulator maybe or Wire harness?
I have been burning out headlights like crazy. 4 lights in the last 2 weeks.

The mercedes code is m3/10 I don't know what this is.

Last edited by Rob Armstrong; 01-03-2015 at 04:32 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-03-2015, 09:06 AM
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The alternator voltage regulator has failed on, _DO NOT_DRIVE OR RUN THE ENGINE until this is fixed, you are going to damage the electronics. You system voltage is going to be over 16V at idle and even higher at speed.

These cars had 2 alternators, Bosch and Valeo. I'm pretty sure they will interchange. One thick wire leads to the battery, the other is key on power to wake the alternator up.
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2015, 12:53 AM
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Well she's running like a champ now.
Voltage regulator was toast.
Bought a remand alt for $202 and replaced the battery that was still under warrenty.
As soon as I got home with the car the belt shreadded.
Replaced belt today and all is great.
I am into the car for about $1000 total now and have to say this was one of the best buys in my life.
Now the question is do I flip it for a hefty profit or keep it and enjoy.
Decisions decisions.
Thanks for all your help to those that replyed.

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