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  #1  
Old 11-02-2015, 04:24 PM
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draining engine oil after 15 year in storage , hydraulic lifter condition

Hi All,

I have acquired a Mercedes 450 slc which has been in storage for 15 years.

Now i am busy with the renewal of the oils.

As far as the engine oil is concerned, it was very thick and sludgy. Drained it. Then added some fresh oil and cranked the engine to check if oil is flowing throught he cam oil feeder tubes.

All looked ok , and the cam followers and hydraulic lifters look visibly in working condition.

I have good oil pressure during swinging of the engine.

Before i fire the engine, i wish to know if it is recommended to remove the hydraulic lifters, press out the old oil and soak it in new oil for a few days before installing.

Any thoughts on this, or should i leave well alone and fire the engine.

Your comment will be appreciated.

C

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  #2  
Old 11-02-2015, 05:00 PM
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Location: Modesto CA
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Are there a lot of those cars in your vicinity? How many do you have?
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  #3  
Old 11-02-2015, 05:04 PM
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Hi Frank

Thanks for all you suggestions and response.

have two 450 slc. both are 1977 model. there are many available in this part of the world and sell for around 3000 us dollars.

regards
C
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  #4  
Old 11-02-2015, 05:09 PM
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You might want to add about 1 pint of ATF to the engine oil before initial start up. ATF is good to help engine oil flow better and has good cleaning capabilities. Let the engine get good and warm and then change the oil and filter again. Pull the coil wire before starting and crank to ensure you have good oil pressure. Once good pressure is verified, plug the coil wire back in and start her up. Beware of rodents, nuts, leaves, etc. in the exhaust system.
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  #5  
Old 11-03-2015, 04:37 AM
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I don't agree with mixing oil with ATF and then running an engine.

If I had a similar problem I would

1) Drain the old engine oil (as I believe you have done)
2) Fill with a cheap engine oil of the correct specification + new filter
3) Remove the rocker covers
4) Jump start the starter with the ignition off and make sure that the hydraulic lifters and the spray bar on the engine is operating correctly
5) Replace rocker covers if all is good
6) Try and start the engine
7) After using the car for a few weeks I'd change oil and filter for my favourite brand


After 15 years I'd expect the hydraulic lifters to be more or less empty of oil

If you follow my advice make sure you have a decent battery charger and a decent battery!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 11-03-2015, 04:40 AM
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I expect you're more likely to have fuel related trouble though...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #7  
Old 11-10-2015, 05:48 PM
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hey STretch,


you were spot on.

after the tank and lines were cleaned. found out that the fuel distributor pin(piston) is stuck. possibly the FD is gummed.

Will a FD from a 1983 Mercedes sec work on the 1978 450 slc?

the FD looks identical.

any thoughts?

thanks
C
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  #8  
Old 11-19-2015, 05:54 PM
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HI All,

ended up opening the FD. cleaned it. installed it.

the car started. will do a engine flush and replace oil this week end.

thanks all for your input.
C
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  #9  
Old 11-20-2015, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AfricaXJ6 View Post
hey STretch,


you were spot on.

after the tank and lines were cleaned. found out that the fuel distributor pin(piston) is stuck. possibly the FD is gummed.

Will a FD from a 1983 Mercedes sec work on the 1978 450 slc?

the FD looks identical.

any thoughts?

thanks
C
Sorry - don't know

Quote:
Originally Posted by AfricaXJ6 View Post
HI All,

ended up opening the FD. cleaned it. installed it.

the car started. will do a engine flush and replace oil this week end.

thanks all for your input.
C
Sorry to be so late - I missed your post.

I'm glad it all worked out.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #10  
Old 01-01-2016, 10:47 AM
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HI All

An update on my 450 SLC project.
I ended up flushing all the fuel lines , new fuel filter, pump and a got a working GFD of another merc 450 slc. Fuel tank was flushed and high pressure cleaned.
I am getting at least 3 litres/minute when I do the fuel volume test at the supply line to the FD.
The car starts perfect and idles at 750rpm. When I press the accelerator it increases the rpm with good response, although a bit rough.

However when I put the vehicle in drive and try to move it , it moves but only just and cannot even drive over a small hill.
So essentially no power.
The fuel metering plate feels a bit hard when it is depressed. But this came of a working car, took it off myself, and the plunger piston is moving freely.
Please assist with your thoughts on how I can trouble shoot and resolve this problem.

Will appreciate all your help, I am on vacation and would like to at least drive this car for a few days.

C
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  #11  
Old 01-01-2016, 12:19 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AfricaXJ6 View Post
HI All

An update on my 450 SLC project.
I ended up flushing all the fuel lines , new fuel filter, pump and a got a working GFD of another merc 450 slc. Fuel tank was flushed and high pressure cleaned.
I am getting at least 3 litres/minute when I do the fuel volume test at the supply line to the FD.
The car starts perfect and idles at 750rpm. When I press the accelerator it increases the rpm with good response, although a bit rough.

However when I put the vehicle in drive and try to move it , it moves but only just and cannot even drive over a small hill.
So essentially no power.
The fuel metering plate feels a bit hard when it is depressed. But this came of a working car, took it off myself, and the plunger piston is moving freely.
Please assist with your thoughts on how I can trouble shoot and resolve this problem.

Will appreciate all your help, I am on vacation and would like to at least drive this car for a few days.

C
So the engine revs with good response but is a bit rough? That could be a stuck / sticky injectors. Have you checked them?

As for the automatic transmission - could be a separate problem. Have you changed the transmission fluid and filter? Have you measured the primary pressure of the transmission (or any of the others?). I assume the transmission has been sitting for as long as the rest of the car (!)
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 01-01-2016, 12:53 PM
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Thanks for the reply Stretch.

The injectors were ultrasonic cleaned. But I will remove each one and check for flow pattern.I never did this check.

I changed the transmission fluid and filter. Did a complete drain of the torque convertor too.the fluid drained was reddish in colour and no debris in pan.

I would imagine that on startup the torque convertor will fill up through the transmission.ease confirm this or at least indicated the the TC refills itself.

Thanks for your support.

C
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  #13  
Old 01-01-2016, 12:57 PM
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Justb to answer tour question. I did not measure anything at the transmission.
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  #14  
Old 01-01-2016, 02:44 PM
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When you replaced the transmission fluid =>

Did you measure the amount you removed and the amount you put back in?

If you read the maintenance manual (Job 2702) the recommendation is to fill the transmission with approximately 4 litres of dexron II and then run the engine in park (at idle) and add in the remaining fluid (as specified for your transmission). This is meant to help with air locks etc.

Check the level again (job 2710)

Maintenance manual is available on startek (see my signature) - let me know if you need help finding this.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #15  
Old 01-02-2016, 01:59 AM
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Thanks Stretch,

I drained out 5 litres.

and put in about 7.5 litres. Castrol dexron11. level ok.

I am thinking that my problem is either the sticky/some dirt in fuel injectors, so will remove injectors and check for flow pattern.

or, the timing . the distributor was removed when the water pump was changed. if I recall, with the cams on the timing marks and the from crank pulley on 0, then the distributor rotor points to the notch mark in the distributor housing.? please give me your wisdom on this set up.

appreciate your comments.

regards
C

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