![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Screwed! (can't uncrew)
Gents, I recently acquired an old car with these "security" lug nuts. Well, they are secure. They have a six pointed star cut into the center of the nut, into which a special socket is designed to fit. The nut is also conical, it tapers slightly from the base to the outer end. I tried one of these kits that threads a reverse-threaded socket onto the outside of the nut, but the steel of the nut is too hard and the tapered shape thwarts the effort as well. Where might I find one of the designated sockets or something else that would work?
Thanks. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Well, that is a pain.
I have seen them at autoparts stores before. Pretty sure JC Whitney sell them too. This online place has them. Nut sure if they will sell just the 'wrench' part or not. ![]() http://www.jimcookperformance.com/Mcgard/MERCEDES_BENZ.html
__________________
1986 300E 5-Speed 240k mi. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
For a while I saw on TV a socket advertised to eliminate all sockets in your toolbox (yeah-right). But purportedly it was useful for security lug nuts. This socket had pins inside that retracted to conform to the nut shape. It may have been from one of these Bob Vila-type of commercials.
__________________
95 E320 Cabriolet, 169K |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Your best bet to get them off is to do what we have to do.
Find an old socket that will fit over the "security" lug !! Slam it on & try to unscrew it that way !! Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't !?
__________________
1994 E500 (MY SUNDAY DRIVER) 1993 190E SPORTLINE LE W/ M104 SWAP 1997 C230 2002 ML320 2000 BMW 528I (WIFEY'S CAR) "Excuses are crutches for the unfounded." |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I think it's called Gator grip, i saw in on TV awhile back, i'm not sure if it would work tho.
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Any good tire shop should be able to get them off
Try an Independent specialty tire/wheel shop. They would most probably have a tool to take off locks when the key has been lost.
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
If you cut off the head with a torch, then the rest of the bolt will screw out with your fingers once you get the wheel out of the way. I trust that there is only one per wheel.
Use a really wet rag around the hole to prevent burning the wheel. Good luck, |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Try the old wrecking yard trick. Tig weld any lug nut to the top of the wheel lock and use a standard lug wrench to remove it after it cools. They are probably made by McGard and the "keys" are different for each set. We never tried to save them just weld, remove and dispose.
__________________
Dave 88 300E 250K Sold 2000 C230K Totaled @104K ![]() 2003 ML320 156K Sold 2009 E350 4Matic Sport 46K Sold 2011 ML350 60K Sold 2014 GLK350 46k 2012 GL450 55K |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Dave obviously has a much better solution than mine. TIG will concentrate the heat on the lug bolt.
Good luck, |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
You can buy the Gator Grip socket on-line at:
http://gator-grip.com/ You will also find them and their clones on EBay - perhaps cheaper used. I have never used one on this kind of locking lug nut/bolt, but I feel confident that this will work. And it has made this kind of lock obsolete. Ken300D |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Depending on how recessed it is, you can cut a grove in it with a dremel, or similar, and remove it with a big screwdriver.. Might be an "at home solution".. Most times the keyed ones aren't that tight..
BTW.. The Gator grip won't work on a "round" outer surface.. And the pins are not likely to provide enough bite on the keyed area to work.. My opinion anyway..
__________________
89 300SEL Money Pit 92 Blown Buick Ultra Pimpmobile 220K and adding 1K per week 88 Wagoneer Slightly modified (Not for soccer moms) 04 Kia Sedona with every option... NICE |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
mig welding will work just fine. almost any body or repair shop has mig welding and it doesn't take a true expert to get a decent weld.
NOTE. use a nut of sufficent size then you weld on the inside of the nut. make sure of a good contact. doing it this way will also contain the welding sparks. you should apply some spatter spray or paste to catch any errant sparks that may fly. also don't fill the hole completely that helps contain the weld and be sure your first strike for arc is on the lug nut not the added on nut. the weld to the lug nut is the important one that must be sure to take. remember your going thru chrome so if you don't take it off that has to be burnt off first for the wire to stick to the lug. so you may want to slight grind the surface off of the lug nut tks craig
__________________
Thanks Much! Craig 1972 350sl Red/Blk 117k 1988 420sel charcoal/Blk 140k 1987 420sel gold/tan 128k See My Cars at:http://mysite.verizon.net/res0aytj/index.html Pound it to fit then Paint it to match! There is only First Place and Varying degrees of last! Old age and deceit will overcome Youth and Enthusiasm every time! Putting the square peg in the round hole is not hard... IF you do it fast enough! Old enough to know better but stupid enough to do it anyway! |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
DMARBLE has the right IDEA, last resort, weld a lug nut on, and simply remove your lug. Had to do this once before and it worked excellent on a 71 Chevelle.
__________________
Rich 1990 300CE 71 Chevelle SS 454 |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
The problem with going to a shop is that the front calipers are locked. Which is why the wheels need to come off... So any solution last to be homebrewed. Last night I took one of these reverse threaded sockets made for removing stipped lug nuts and punded the fool out of it with the persuader (small sledge). Finished the job with the impact wrench. Thanks for the help.
|
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|