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#1
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w124 Door panel removal
Could someone please telll me how to remove the interior drivers side door pannel on a 124 (90 300D)? I need to open it up to fix something rattling!
Moreover, does anyone have any springs they would suggest for the car? I have Bilstein HD shocks that I recently installed so something that would work with those would be good. Im looking to lower the car a little, mainly to increase stability and cornering levels. Thanks alot... Shawn kumar_shawn@hotmail.com |
#2
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Removing the panel is easy. Once all the obvious things are off, (trim around mirror, trim around lock, release handle and pull handle,) then it just lifts up and away. Don't forget to disconnect the wiring from the kerb light and any speakers. The bin stays attached to the trim panel.
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Mick J '08 Chrysler 300CRD (MB OM 642 engine) '95 E220 estate '89 230TE (R.I.P.) |
#3
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Look in the DIY section on top of this page.
under "door check strap replacement". It gives you some info.
As far as springs, I have H&R's with HD Bilsteins with one bump spring pads at front an 3 bumps in the rear. Some people do not recommend that set up (vs H&R's and Bilsteins Sport) but the car seats just right and it works for me. You DO have other choices, like Eibach and MB Sportline. Less agressive than the H&R's, in that order. Your car, your choice.
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J.H. '86 300E Last edited by J.HIDALGO; 05-18-2003 at 07:35 AM. |
#4
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I replaced my standard springs with H&R springs, there is a noticable difference in corners, I am running 1bump pads in the front and the back. Mind you i hit most steep driveway/ speed bumps unless i come in on an angle. I just need new shocks now.
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'Some Fear' because 'No Fear' means your not going fast enough. 300CE yr1988, SL55Kompressor yr2002, CLK320 yr2002. |
#5
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Remove mirror handle (flip out the little lock), then the trim. The top clip will break if you are not extremely careful if it's not already broken.
Pull off the seat knobs (don't loose the headrest one), then pull the chrome trim back and unbolt the door handle. Pry off the covers for the seat switch and the latch. Pull the latch holder back until it unclips, then unhook the operating rod. Remove the lock button, then pull the whole panel straight up -- there are about four hooks that fit into slots in the door, holding the panel on. DO NOT pry inwards, you will break the hooks off. Most likely you have a dead door check -- $16, three bolts. New one won't match the color unless you paint it. It is possible, though, that the door check is fine and something else is loose -- tighten all the screws while you are in there, and make sure the plastic water sheild is intact. If badly torn or missing, make a new one from heavy plastic sheet and glue up with spray adhesive. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#6
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Great info - Pannel removal ; but one more
Quote:
I've successfully removed the mirror handle, and the seat adjustment knobs, but ... Please suggest how I may remove the actual switches. "pull the chrome trim back and unbolt the door handle" - please expand this - I have the 300E 2.6, with no chrome - just black plastic. Thanks so much for the help.
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Thanks for the help Bill Fisher '86 560SL (186K) - Now a 'classic' : Registered as an Historic Vehicle 02 E430 in the stable '14 LS460 (Lexus) - - - - - '95 E420 (198K) found a new home '99 E320 (80K) (gave it's life for me as we hit a bumper) '95 E420 (231K) Sold to a happy buyer, new to Mercedes '90 300E (65K) Sold to an Mercedes Lover '92 190E (215K) - retired to the salvage yard '93 500SEL (214K) - Moved to another family, still runs like a young pup |
#7
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The switches stay in the door unless you are replacing them. The black plastic trim prys off, and the bolt for the door handle/arm-rest is usually hidden behind some foam. I was wrong, the chrome trim is on the W115 chassis, not the W124.
Once the door latch assembly and armrest screw are out, and the cover for the actual latch and door lock button are off, the whole panel comes off by pulling straight UP until the hooks are free of the door. Watch for the wires for the light in the bottom of the panel. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#8
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Quote:
Lower is not always better, especially if you expect some kind of suspension travel. When it's too low, it sits on the bump stops - not good. My target is 14.00-14.25 inches front and rear, with a full tank of fuel, from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender lip. I've had some of my 124's lower (13.0-13.5) and it's just not practical for a street-driven car, although it looks cool. To reduce body roll, install larger sway bars... either Sportline front & rear (27.5 and 16.5), or limo front (28.5 with 500E rear (18.0). You can install Sportline front lower control arm bushings, and rear subframe bushings as well. |
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