How reliable are the 560SEC's? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SCOTTFISH · #16 11-13-2003, 01:36 PM

Hatterasguy, first of all, I agree your insurance is ripping you off. If you have only had one wreck(not your fault) and no tickets, even with your age in mind, you should be paying no more than $1200 per year. When I was 20, I had a convertible saab turbo and it only ran $2400 per year. As far as the w126 cars, if you have $10k to invest in a MB, you can buy a very reliable sedan(I would recommend) in good shape with not a lot of problems and have $1500-2000 pocket change. If you buy one, I would take about $1500 and bring all maintenance issues to current such as timing chain, rails, tensioners, etc. and have all suspension checked such as ball joints, bushings for sway bar and control arms and have the flex discs checked/replaced. You can find a good car with 125k or less miles for around $8k-$9k that will last you a long time. I have a 89 300se with 190k and have not had much problems with it in a years time. If you are going to be traveling back and forth to school, I would not recommend the inline 6 motored cars such as 300se/300sel. 5 out of 6 will have an oil consumption problem that is not dangerous, but aggrevating on a trip. I have had a valve job done with new seals and gaskets and still have the problem. In all the people I know or have talked to on this board, I have only found 1 person without the problem and he is a little iffie. I also have a 90 420sel with a v8. I have no problems with it. Outside of regular maintenance and replacing worn out rubber parts such as bushings and brakes, I have only had to replace the heater/ac blower motor that ran me about $350. Since June, I have put 11k on it and it now has 111k on it. I paid $8k for it. I do recommend what some others have stated and that is be patient and take the time to find the right car if the w126 is what you want. It took me 3 months to find mine going through all the crap that people have where they have mistreated their cars and trying to sell it to me. Ask for records when buying. This will help eliminate the bad ones. With any used car several years old, you will have repairs. The MB parts for my cars are no higher in price than my 93 Nissan Maxima that I had. Until you get the rubber parts replaced, the repairs are more frequent. But, once you have them replaced, you are set to ride for 100k + miles. The timing chain on the v8's are the achiles tendon of the car. IF you don't service at every 100k, you are borrowing against time and if not done in time, could cost you as much as $3000-$5000 in damage. So, that is crucial. Good luck!

rickg · #17 11-13-2003, 02:02 PM

That's a useful piece of info on the 300SE/SEL cars. I've considered one of those to replace my wifes Chisler, but I'll take that oil consumption factor into consideration.

fahrgewehr2 · #18 11-13-2003, 02:36 PM

SCOTTFISH-

I had a valve job performed on my SE and it no longer uses oil. My shop has done a lot of 103 motors and said that a valve job has cured every one. Something is still not right with your car.

What kind of mileage do you get out of each?

Mike

SCOTTFISH · #19 11-13-2003, 04:28 PM

Don't get me wrong, the 300se/sel with the inline 6 are good cars and they will last probably as long as the others with 500k+ miles before they die. The oil consumption is just more an aggrivation than anything. I personally think the inline 6 strains itself in everyday stop and go driving. In other words, it is underpowered for the size and weight of the car. My MB mechanic told me that he had done many, many 300's as far as valve jobs and had never seen anything like it. For some reason, I find it hard to believe that if a car is consuming oil to the tune of a quart to a quart and a half every 800-1000 miles, a certified MB mechanic should know whether a valve job would solve it. He has been a MB mechanic with both the MB dealerships and now on his own for over 20 years. My 300 has 190k on it. I have tried all kinds of weights for oil and now I am using Mobil 1 synthetic 0w40 and it seems to do the best now. I have absolutely no spotting on the garage floor. The only time I did was when I switched to 20w 50. As soon as I switched back to 40 weight, the spotting stopped. My 90 420sel with the v8 uses very little if any oil. Maybe someone here might have a clue, but I can drive to Hopkinsville, KY from Kingsport, TN (375 miles) and it will use between a quart and a quart and a half. I can drive it around town on the weekend for a couple of days at my inlaws in KY and start back home to TN and get all the way home before having to add some oil (another 375 miles). It is like it is speratic oil consumption. I would think that it should use the same amount of oil going as coming since you are putting it through the same conditions, but it does not. I have 2 friends in TN that have 300 se's and one uses oil of a quart every 1000 miles and the other says he has not noticed much consumption. I have talked to several people on this board with the same car and all of them I have talked to uses oil. Any suggestions? Someone even suggested changing the oil filler cap seal. At one time, oil was getting into plugs 2,3 & 4 with 2 being completely fouled. Now, it doesn't seem to be as bad. If ever buy another w126, it will be the small v8 in the 420sel. It has sufficient power for the size/weight and is more comfortable and does not have the omen of oil consumption.

albert champion · #20 11-13-2003, 08:17 PM

i own a 1987 560sec. approx 83,000 miles. unlike gerry, i prefer the 1986-1987 models because they had a glovebox[no passenger side sodium azide bag].

gerry's annual operating expenses seem a bit high, but if the car has not been carefully and assiduously maintained, they could be higher than that. don't buy a cheap 560sec, unless you are a great mechanic or have deep pockets. it is wiser to find a low mileage, cherry version, one owner car. and they are out there. you have to look though and you have to be patient. i recommend john olson's sl marketletter as a source.

recently, i even found a low mileage cherry version in the mbca STAR classifieds. it was a two owner car living in naples, fl. when i talked to the seller, i had hoped that it had spent its entire life in naples. it hadn't. until a year ago when the seller retired, it spent its entire life in ohio - land of snow, ice, and road salts. you do not want a car that has been a daily driver in those wintertime conditions.

personally, i would think a 560sec would not be the vehicle of choice for a college student. you could never comfortably double date. you probably couldn't garage it. and you would have to find a good, old m-b oriented garage to tend to it. unless college and college students have changed, this car would not be my choice for the collegiate experience.

when i was @ harvard in the 1960's, my vehicle was a 1966 ford fairlane. 4 doors, 289 v8, 3 on the tree. simple, durable, and could haul 11 people when called upon to do so. vinyl interior, no carpet. the interior could be hosed down after one of your roommates had overindulged and you were his transport and he barfed all over the car.

if you are going to a party school, i think honda has your vehicle. it is some kind of a box on wheels, but its interior is designed for hosing-down levels of cleaning.

college requires a true 4 place vehicle. old benz coupes, though lovely to look at and drive, are not compatible with the college experience in my view. but what do i know? i am just a geezer, now. do 18 year olds listen to geezers these days?

blackmercedes · #21 11-13-2003, 10:09 PM

Wish I could have afforded such a car when I was an undergrad!

However, even if I could have come up with the purchase price for a good example, there is no way I could have kept the car in top shape. As much as I like both the 126 sedans and coupes, I just have a tough time recommending them for someone on a really tight budget. The newest examples are now 12-13 years old, and no matter how well made, cars age.

Repairing the AC system can be expensive, and things like timing chains on V-8 cars can take a chunk out of anyone's wallet. These cars are now looking at lots of items like engine and tranny mounts, suspension bushings, and possible transmission work.

For $10K you could buy a nearly new Corolla, drive it for a few years, sell it for $8K and put nothing but gas in it in the meantime. After graduation, sell the Toyota and reward your hard work on getting a degree and new job with a Mercedes.

#22 11-13-2003, 10:27 PM

I have to agree with John and Albert, unless you're a trust fund kid.

We've discussed on this board that the earlier 117 motors had softer cams -- something to think about.

It may have been mentioned in earlier posts, but watch for leaking head gaskets, smoke at start-up, top end clicking, (those damned cams) or else bad rocker arms. Main seal leaks, rear end weeping, ps leaks, and on and on.....

Hatterasguy · #23 11-14-2003, 07:21 PM

Thanks for the advice! w126 I wish I was a trust fund kid! Then I would just buy a new S55

I just manage my money well. What about the 300E's I can afford 93's or 94's with about 70 -100k on them. It would be an upgrade mileage and condition wise, from my Camry. Or possible a mid 90's C220 or C280. I do all my own work so a W126 diesel looks interesting. I also just love the way a black W126 looks!!

I will be living at home and commuting to school, about a 25-35 minute ride. So I thought why not treat myself to a car I really want.

OhioMercedesBoy · #24 11-14-2003, 10:36 PM

I am in my 3rd year in an undergrad Engineering program right now; and just turned 21. I had the chance to buy a Benz for my everyday driver about a year and a half ago when I replaced my car. I decided to buy a new Saturn VUE instead, and get a warranty, and be able to tow with it (I am an avid jetskier). Well, as much as I love my VUE, I have to say that I kick myself every day for not going with the Benz.. they just have this air about them. The VUE meets my needs as a college student, but it doesn't have the classiness that I would like to have in my vehicle. However, I know from experience, my next car will be a Mercedes. I guess my dad's S500 will have to tie me over for now; since I pretty much have custody of it (and its fuel bill) on the weekends when I come home.
~D.J.~

Jason Beal · #25 11-14-2003, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by blackmercedes

For $10K you could buy a nearly new Corolla, drive it for a few years, sell it for $8K and put nothing but gas in it in the meantime. After graduation, sell the Toyota and reward your hard work on getting a degree and new job with a Mercedes.

I agree. You can buy a Honda or Toyota and drive it out until you get your degree. They hold their value pretty well and need little attention. You don't have to worry about keeping it covered, babied etc...Finding a parking spot when you are in a hurry, and gas money come to mind too.

A family friend ,who is a doctor, drove a beat up Toyota through college and still had it when he was my doctor ( 20 yrs ago and just starting out). He drives a Benz now. My friend went through undergrad then law school, and is now a lawyer driving the same Japanese car. She'll upgrade eventually, but simple is better for her right now. My brother drove the same car from 11th grade until he got his PHD!!! A little Mazda hatchback! He finally got a new car last year!

If you have to have a 126 Benz (and I can't say that I don't blame you) I'd shoot for a 300 SDL. The gas mileage would be better.

#26 11-15-2003, 02:45 PM

Hatterasguy,

It sounds like you have you ***** together. The fact that you live at home and are a DIY'er may offset the maintenance of these beautiful beasts. Just buy the most car you can afford, since you're better of spending time in the library than under the hood of a Merc.

Bruce B · #27 02-13-2004, 03:44 PM

I came across this thread and have to add my two cents, I have a '91 300SE which I bought last year. It had about 182,000 on the clock then and now has 212,000. It runs great and handles pretty good, better now than when first bought due to changing a few key suspension parts. Oil and filter are changed every 5,000 miles. Alignment has been done, four new shocks, strut rod bushings, idler arm bushings, steering damper, rear swaybar links (installing these today), and this fine automobile should be ready for another 100,000 miles. The entire suspension has been thoroughly checked and the bushings and so forth that I was really worried about (sub frames) are in good shape. I would recommend a 126 to anyone who asked. Incidently, one of the guys at the MB parts counter asked me the other day if mine might be for sale (it's NOT for sale, sorry), he told me that he has an '84 but was looking for a '91 in particular due to it being a top notch car. I have to agree with him and have told many folks that I won't be going back to Chevy anytime soon. The lady I bought mine from, her husband told me that he wished that they hadn't sold it because he said the seats were more comfortable in it than the ones in their new E320.

cbdo · #28 02-14-2004, 09:20 AM

Two thoughts:
1) the 126 is a great car, but so are the smaller bodies (123, 124), and they'll still feel like Mercedes.

2) Age is incredibly helpful for auto insurance, and you may not be getting ripped off too badly at the moment (sorry to say). Our daughter is an 18-year-old accident-free honor student at Notre Dame and is still costing $2400/year for a '99 Jetta, including a couple of discounts we get for having all our cars and our homeowners with the company; once she hits 19 it drops dramatically, but not to adult rates until she's somewhere in her 20's.
Rates also vary significantly by state and local area; I'd pay substantially more if we were down near Detroit.

howardjnl · #29 06-25-2004, 02:30 PM

My two cents on the 560SEC:
A couple of years ago, I was looking to replace my 1973 220D. It was running great, but the body was in need of a second refresh (rust again). My wife pressured me to upgrade to something sportier (she's great, eh?), so I begin looking for an SL.
I came across the SEC's, and the more I learned about them, the more I wanted one. They have about the same performance characteristics as the SL's, and they are not nearly as common. I found a one owner, dealer maintained, 1991 560SEC in Florida with 87,000 miles on it for $17,500, a very good price at the time. These things have self leveling rear end, ASR, ABS, 10 speaker stereo, and other stuff. I drove it home to Virginia at triple digit speeds all the way. This car is a dream. It gets about 15 mpg suburb driving, 18 highway (80mph+), uses premium. I've since put on wider tires and 17" rims, replaced the stereo system (speakers, too) and it can make corners like it's glued the the ground. But, it's definitely a tinkerer's car, with so many rubber parts to replace, throttle system tuning, etc. I love tweaking it.
That said, I had sold my 220D (305,000 miles, $1,300) and missed it very much. We got rid of an aging Dodge Caravan, and bought a 1987 300SDL (205,000 miles, $7,000), and I love the heck out of it, too. Uses less than 1 qt of oil in 1,000 miles, runs wonderfully, very, very little involved to maintain it. Definitely a great car for hauling my family around, and would be great for college road trips.
I hope the above info is useful.
John

Hatterasguy · #30 06-25-2004, 05:46 PM

Wow I forget about this thread! I can say I am glad I didn't get a 560SEC/SEL gas would have killed me. My 300SDL on the other hand should be an awsome campus cruiser/commuting car. I'm learning a great deal about MB and W126's. I'll be pulling apart a 420SEL soon, their fun to work on.

Blackmercedes I was just re-reading your post and am glad I didn't spend $10k on a Toyota. I'd rather spend $2,500 on a Mercedes and another $6k to perfect it. $8,500 for an almost perfect SDL sounds good to me. Plus I can probably get $4k-$5k for it in a few years if I decide to sell.