It has taken a couple of months – but the rear suspension rebuild of my 1987/ 300SE is now complete !!!!
Laying on my back using jack stands and making use of all the good advice I found on this forum I first replaced the rear sub frame mounts, Using the threaded rod method. Then came the Sway Bar Bushings as well as the S.B.Links and finally, last Friday came the trailing arm bushings.
The shocks were good and were not replaced.
Because of recent back problems I’ve been having, I held off doing the trailing arm bushings for a while now. It is a more massive job, I had not done “MB Springs” before on my own, and the different opinions of how “easy” or not lowering the rear differential was, kept me in the sidelines.
I am glad I waited. Unexpectedly, I had access to an MB guy I knew with a lift, that was willing to have me as an assistant, student, and supervisor. I had the parts, paid for his time and it was the best deal ever – and most fun.

Now, like every other car owner in the world I have visited the underside of my vehicle while on a lift- when a mechanic wants to explain why the work will cost this or that, but have only visited...This was a first. I was actually there spending time (about four hours) and getting my hands dirty. I now so badly want to own one of these things (ain’t gonna happen). Cheers Larry Bible.
I cannot avoid stating the obvious – It is so much smarter & easier working under a lift than working on your back, with your nose rubbing the chassis…
In any case we lowered the rear end on to a transmission jack, which released the springs, then pulled the trailing arms off and replaced the bushings on a bench. We did not undo the drive shaft, rather wiggled the bolt (the inner bolt on the pass. side) and the trailing arms into position. This was a big time saver that I did not know could be done. I was also happy that I could share “gained knowledge” by insisting that tightening the bolts should be done with the wheels on the car and loaded. This is the correct and only way, I said. Any member on the forum will tell you that...Just ask. Working in tandem with another person carrying heavy parts proved to be more comfortable than I am used to doing at home. Upon reflecting – the obvious again – Since we work on our cars alone, mostly- this forum sure eases the pain of the lonely D.I.Y er.
While there was coffee brake taken I even got a leg on the front end work and replaced the left side tie rod ends - to cure a nagging "steering to the left in very slow speed groan" - that sure sounded like it was coming from the right side. Just goes to show Ya.
As a foot note I might add the old trailing arm bushings did not look too bad. The guy thinks I am throwing money away. - It ain't broke yet, he says. Get a few more years out of them. The difference however in feel and handling is well worth it . SO now we move on to the front...
I have a question about that , but think I will get a new thread going on that.

gidpor:

I was excited to see your post, and have some questions for you, based on your experience. First, to give you some background, my car is also a W126, 300SE, 1990. I have replaced all suspension and steering parts on the front which has made a huge difference. I am now ready to tackle the rear subframe and trailing arm bushings. I have been studying this to see if it is possible to replace the bushings without removing hte entire rear axle as the repair CD suggests. A few more specifics from you woould be most helpful.

It sounds like you did not remove the rear axle, spriings, or tires/wheels - correct? You started by lowering the rear differential, leaving hte drive line attached (so you must have removed the rear section of exhaust first) - correct? Finally, did you also disconnect the trailing arm at the sub-frame bushings to lower the assembly? Did you do one side at a time, and if so, did you employ the use of a coil spring compressor druing the procedure?

It sounds like you were able to do what I would like to accomplish. I hope you don't mind taking the time to help me out by lending your experience.

Thanks, Jon

Hi,

let me try and remember some of the details as I go along.
First I mentioned that I did the rear suspension as a 2 stage operation.
First up, in my Garage floor I replaced the sub-frame mounts, the sway bar bushings and the sway bar links. I saved quite a bit on labor this way (used the same principal on the front as well).
Now comes the part you are asking about. I am afraid you are incorrectly assuming the extent of "removal...."
Second stage was with the car on a lift, wheels off, and Sub-frame supported by a transmission jack. To get the trailing arms off, you must lower the Sub-frame, otherwise no access to the bolts. To lower the sub-frame you must release it from the sub-frame mounts. The book says one must lower/remove the Drive Shaft (disconnect) , again- to gain to access to secure the bolts on the trailing arm on the passenger side. Luckily I did not find this to be the case. - When the time came we just wiggled the bolt back into position. Nor did I need to remove the rear differential or exhaust. Just pushed the exhaust aside.
In order to completely remove the trailing arms you do need to remove the calipers, disks, disconnect the axle half shafts as well as remove the springs. We used a spring compressor that I will not recommend in any way. The mechanic I worked with took complete responsibility there- I was very leery of this. Have gained great respect for stored energy. It is also much tighter space than the front. Nevertheless if memory does not fail me - when you lower the trailing arm the spring is released. It is shorter than the front springs and does not have nearly the same amount of stored energy aiming to explode. So it is "simpler" to remove/install.
We took the trailing arms off and worked on them one at a time. Perhaps if I had the correct MB puller I could have done the replacement on the vehicle, not sure. But I needed to put it on a press - so off it came...Some guys I talked too said they would just torch the rubber bushings to get them out. Not knowing enough about Rubber/Metal melting properties, when mixed with gas fumes, I decided to do it the old fashioned way.
I also remember that through the trailing arm runs a Brake Line Cable that has to be released (emergency brake I think). The only thing that slipped by me - causing some damage was an ABS sensor cable that is hooked up from the rear seat and goes to the differential ( almost sure) which I ripped by yanking too hard on the trailing arm -
I think this just about covers it. The change is huge . Just like getting a new mattress. Very enjoyable for a while - then, once you get used to it you loose your point of reference.....Can't remember what it was like before.
In parting words I will reiterate that several mechanics I spoke to before going down this road thought I was nuts to spend the time and money on this old car. I far as I am concerned, I am willing to drive this car forever - and this forum really supported me during the project.
Good Luck to you

hello and thanks for the reply.

As with you, since I have already invested the time and $ rebuilding the front end (complete) and have also gone thorugh the engine a year ago, I will need to drive the car for some time in order to recoup the investment. With each project the car improves dramatically. Since I already have the parts (except for the differential mounts) I am encouraged to hear you report that the bushing replacement made a significant difference.

I have access to a Klann spring compressor which is an awesome tool and I share your respect for these springs. I waas able to remove my front springs without the correct tool, but I didn't wish to attempt the replacement without the right tool. By the way, I have noted a number of comments on this forum that spring replacement should not be necessary, but from my experience this has made tremendous difference in handling.

Obviously, I was hoping to avoid complete rear axle (brakes, etc.) removal to accomplish this job, so I appreciate your indicating there is no shortcut to get to these bushings. Like you, I will use a press to remove the bushings, so I will plan to remove the semi trailing arms completely from the vehicle. To hear you report that you were able to do this with two guys in four hours is encouraging. I will plan on two long days on a weekend and hope for the best. I don't have a lift, so this will be a garage floor, jack, blocks and jackstand job.

BTW, if you have any questions regarding the front suspension job, I would be happy to lend my experience for what its worth. Or, perhaps you have already completed this by now. The difference for my car was like night and day.

Thanks, Jon

Hi Again,

I am not sure where I mentioned it only took four hours to do the rear suspension. If I gave that impression, I appologize. It did take longer.
Another note - My differential mount did look good, so it was not replaced.Nor was the differential touched. Therefore the axle half shafts were only disconnected from the wheel side.

Even though I have already done the front end on my car, I would like to ask your opinion, or anyone else here on the forum - on a possible solution to a problem A friend is having with his (same) car.
Here is my question - When replacing the Bearing Bracket bushings along with the Track Rod bushing on my car, I had removed the bracket from the car completely to work on it. However, Is it possible (to replace only this one) bushing while the bracket remains in place, on the car ? Is there a puller that can do that job? I am talking about Item #16

Thanks I.A

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Hello:

There probably is a way to do this, however, I would come at it from a different angle. Although, I had everything off of my car to do the complete rebuild, I beleive you can remove the bearing backet by itself in order to press out the old bushing and press in the new bushing. I recall reading in this forum from someone who haed done it this way. You would need to unscrew the track rod at the ball joint connection which could be tedious, but quite possible. I would likely first unbolt the bearing bracket assembly and support it with a block or jack stand, so as not to stress the mounting bushings at the lower control arm end of the track rod. Reassembly may require pushing the lower control arm and spindle forward to achieve proper alignment between the bushings and mounting seat on the frame.

Upon inspection, I would consider replacement of both front and rear bushings as well as the track rod mount ball joint, as long as the bearing bracket is off of the car and everything is readily accessible. The track rod (or guide rod) mount (ball joint) is a critcal item and one that I have heard is more porne to failure than the rubber bushings (and can give you a clunking sensation if in failure mode).

By the way, I experienced a problem with an aftermarket bearing bracket bushing when reassembling on my car. I can't recall off the top of my head whether this was with the front or rear position bushing (I think it was the rear). The replacement bushing was manufactured with a black plastic (ABS?) insert. When tightening to the specified torque the insert crushed under pressure. I purchased new bushings from mercedes which had the metal insert and everything went fine. Fortunately, I was able to return the damaged bushings to the supplier for a full refund (it pays to do business with a reputable supplier). In any case, I would not recommend use of any bushing with the plastic insert - send them back and get ones with metal inserts.

I hope this helps.

Jon

I've done it the way you mention. Now, since there is only this one bushing to replace, I Am trying to avoid doing the whole thing.
Quoting from your post - "The replacement bushing was manufactured with a black plastic (ABS?) insert. When tightening to the specified torque the insert crushed under pressure. I purchased new bushings from mercedes which had the metal insert and everything went fine"
What did you choose to do when the above happened - Did you remove the whole bracket again to redo the bushing ?
This goes back to my original question - Is it possible (what tool) to replace the bushing without removing the bearing bracket itself ? Hopefully someone can chime in.....
Bye

Those bushings come out easily and can go in easily if you use silicone spray. Be aware though, that the large ball joint bushing may also be bad and need to be replaced. That requires determination, or a press. You would also need to clean out any rust from the inside of the aluminum bracket.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=91934

__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

gidpor:

Yes, I removed the entire bearing bracket to R&R the damaged bushing. In my case, I did not yet have the spring or spring mount installed on the lower control arm, so it was easy to remove the bracket, along with the track rod, by disconnecting the track rod from the lower control arm. good luck.

Jon