RUST on LOBES , LOCKED motor?

[cheapold280ce]

I can't believe you got it running.

[t walgamuth]

For sure, it did not look good in the picture!

You never know, though. It does not hurt to try.

Tom W

[bgkast]

You are the man blankenship! Now you should try your magic touch on my seized 300D!

[junqueyardjim]

I sure didn't think it would ever run. I still think the engine is ruined. But it runs, rather like a person who has suffered a bad stroke, and survived.

[Blue 72 250]

I am looking forward to hearing more about the second coming of the Euro!

[300SDog]

Me too, this sounds like something for the annual Dec awards ceremony around here. Probly after its been driven around for awhile oil consumption will be as good an indicator as anything regarding condition of bores.

[t walgamuth]

Right.

Tom W

[blankenship]

haven't been able to run her for more than a few minutes because she starts to overheat. i replaced the thermostat yesterday, and she's still doing it. also, i have NO HEAT from the heater, and my radiator hoses are cool to the touch. how come? (wondering if it's developed a head gasket problem while sitting? is that common? she smokes whitish-grey out of the pipe, which i first attributed to years of sitting, condensation, the fact that she's got 5w30 in her, etc...)

also, she's still doing ignition wierdness. with the key in the "On" position, she won't get any power to the starter resistors for a little while, and won't get enough to fire unless you let her sit with the key on for a minute or two, letting the resistors get hot. wonder why?

[cth350]

Either head gasket is blown or the gunk is also clogging the small holes between the head and the block. Either way, it's got to come apart, unless you want to spend a great deal of time trying to reverse flush the thing.

There should be hose ports coming off the head or intake, then that's the place to splice in a reverse flush kit and hook up a garden hose.

Also, remove the drain plugs in the block and let the gunk clear out thata way.

-CTH

[iwrock]

You bleed the system completely of air?

[t walgamuth]

Before I pulled the head I would be sure it does not have air in the cooling system, then I would pull the water pump and think about changing that. IIRC the older benz wp is only good for 40K. I think you still have several cards to play before pulling the head. The compression looked too good for a massive head gasket leak, IMHO.

Tom W

[Blue 72 250]

I agree. At a minimum pull the water pump and flush the block. I am guessing that lots-o-gunk is causing a flow problem. You may also have a plugged up radiator.

As for the ignition problems, I am guessing that your various connections are looking as bad as the head did. I would go through each wire and connection and give them a fresh strip and connection. Also look for cracked insulation, that will lead to an intermittent circuit if there is corrosion.

[Mike D]

Both the overheating and the no-heat conditions can be caused by not bleeding the coolant system of the air.

Disconnect the hot water feed to the firewall heater valve. Start the car and let it run until coolant flows freely from the supply hose (large hose leading from the cylinder head), reconnect, tighten and top off the system.

Check the water inlet housing where the lower radiator hose connects. If the car sat for a long time it tends to fill with corrosion.

[blankenship]

she's got heat now, and is holdin' steady @ normal operating temp without the very little smoke.

problem now seems to be that she dies when you put her in gear, no matter how much/little gas you give her. you can only get a couple feet forward or reverse before she'll die, even if you rev her. how come, do you think?

i checked the vacuum line going from the manifold to the tranny, and it holds...the other connections look pretty good, too.

[Mike D]

Vacuum leak is the most likely culprit. The Solex on it has probably been over-tightened and is warped. Spray some carb cleaner around the base, check the auxillary vacuum pump (if equipped) and block the vacuum booster line for diagnostic purposes only.