Quote:
Originally Posted by 300TD1982
My shop offered to do the flush but I figure I should look into doing it myself. The entire AC system is being replaced except for the evaporator and the line from the dryer to the evaporator.
Should flush it from inside the car, where the expansion valve goes? Or flush through the line from the dryer? Any suggestions on which brand of flush to use, and how much to use? And I just blow it out with shop air when I'm done? Any tips, tricks, cautions or other info would be appreciated.
Thanks!
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I took an old TXV and drilled a hole in the flap inside (look inside and you will know what I am talking about) so flush solvent can go through unimpeded, and connected hoses long enough to keep the solvent and oil outside the interior of the car. You can use the A/C flush solvent available at most auto parts stores. The other way, is to do the same with your old TXV, and hook the two hoses back up. You can then flush with the hoses being inside the engine bay. After injecting some solvent, blow through dry shop air (dry gas is preferred) till the solvent/oil runs clear. I usually flush both ways. Be sure to put a rag over the top of your catch container, as the solvent/oil vapor goes EVERYWHERE! Once the evap is clean and dried out, you can install the new TXV. If it will be a while before the rest of the system is installed, cap or plug all the openings to keep moisture out. After all the hoses and other equipment is installed, uncap and hook up the drier. It should now be ready for a pressure test. If the pressure test shows no leaks, a deep vacuum and charge will complete the job. With the Sanden and PF condenser, it takes about 20-26 ounces of R134a.....Rich