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  #16  
Old 03-07-2005, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aklim
I thought someone said it was bad because it is very dry and doesn't lubricate stuff?
Yes, kerosene is much worse than diesel for lubricity. Better add some biodiesel or a winterizer with a lubricant in addition to kerosene.

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  #17  
Old 03-07-2005, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Old300D
Yes, kerosene is much worse than diesel for lubricity. Better add some biodiesel or a winterizer with a lubricant in addition to kerosene.
So what is the effect of BK50? That means half of the diesel is acceptable and the other half is not? So if you get BK50 at the pump, would you still have to add something seeing as how biodiesel is more lubricating?
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  #18  
Old 03-07-2005, 12:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aklim
So what is the effect of BK50? That means half of the diesel is acceptable and the other half is not? So if you get BK50 at the pump, would you still have to add something seeing as how biodiesel is more lubricating?
Seeing as how B5 is more than enough lubrication for normal fuel, the "BK50" should be fine without additives, assuming the cetane is ok.
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  #19  
Old 03-08-2005, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by aklim
That's about 10 deg F for BK50? Isn't that kinda bad for our cars to be running kerosene? What was B100 good for, temp wise?
The B100 he tested started to thicken at 3C (not visually, but noticable in flow performance) At 1C, it had a consistency somewhere between motor oil and pancake batter.
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  #20  
Old 03-08-2005, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Burton
The B100 he tested started to thicken at 3C (not visually, but noticable in flow performance) At 1C, it had a consistency somewhere between motor oil and pancake batter.
Is that about 37.4 and 33.8 respectively? Did it do it suddenly or was it gradually thickening?
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  #21  
Old 03-08-2005, 12:36 PM
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as the temperature dropped, the biodiesel started to coagulate in the filter (he used the clear MB type diesel prefilters) first because that cooled off faster than the larger, 1 liter bottles he had the biodiesel blends in. I was really surprised to see how quickly it started to coagulate. Of course, it did so first in the lines and the outside of the bottle, anywhere where it cooled slightly faster.
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  #22  
Old 03-08-2005, 02:02 PM
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Hey guys. I don't post often here or have time to read often but came across this thread. Good too see more interest in biodiesel.

Not to be nitpicky, but biodiesel is not an additive, it's considered a 'neat fuel' or a full replacement fuel . This is an important distinction especially to homebrewers who wonder what their obligation is tax-wise when they produce their own bio. Some folks have tried to avoid/sneak by the tax requirements by declaring their product a fuel additive. Not sure how that holds up legally.

There is at least one biodiesel specific additive out there that I know of - powerservice's arctic express biodiesel antigel. It's designed to work with b20, and most likely is just a highly concentrated antigel that works on the 20% dino diesel to lower the overall cloud/gel points for the mix. Several folks have used this with blends up to b80 and had success in the winters.

Biodiesel will not increase your power, period. I've run it since 2001 in 3 different diesels and the results are always the same. Regardless of the composition or higher cetane, it's my experience that BTU's are king - and the lower the btu, the lower the mileage.

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