50% used motor oil 50% diesel - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

aklim · #76 03-06-2007, 10:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerryS

No additives.
No, I don't have a centrifuge in my car, but, then again, I don't have 160 gallons of oil in my sump and an engine room big enough to hold a barn dance either.
The centrifuge they use (they call it a seperator) is made by DeLaval.
Apart from being a whole lot bigger, with more cones, it's practically the same design as the old DeLaval cream seperators. The sludge they get out of it is 99% carbon (soot) and none of that rare, magnetic lead.

But don't the additives also play a large role in the oil? IOW, what you have is raw oil without any additives. We know there are different additives between gas oil and diesel rated oil. Would it still be safe to run?

Mark DiSilvestro · #77 03-06-2007, 11:36 AM

I have about 18 gallons of used motor oil, including some Mobil-I, mostly from gas engines, that I haven't yet gotten around to recycling at my corner Sunoco station. I also have a couple of beater 240Ds to which I might be interested in adding a gallon or two of oil to each tankfull of diesel. Theories and conjecture are useful for discussion, but would anyone here that has actually burned WMO in thir diesel vehicles, either short-term or long-term, post their experiences, positive or negative?

Happy Motoring, Mark

nerys · #78 03-06-2007, 02:57 PM

"Since you asked, I hope that helps." Very cool info thanks!

as for mass producing it and selling it. No to me mass producing it is being able to easily crank out 20 gallons a week which is about how much fuel I use a week. Ideally I would crank out 100 gallons once a month but I am leary about having that much fuel lying around so would probably do it on a weekly basis for safety reasons.

Well I think 1/10th of 1 micron is more than withing safe parameters for any component in the engine but at $445 :-)

I still need the answer to two questions. #1 will diesel fuel and oil mix well and not separate (so I can use diesel to thin its viscosity this I plan to test later on figure will try 50/50 first and work up to 75/25 and see how it settles after a week)

#2 how much mixture can I use safety (gunking up etc..) and would additives like diesel clean etc.. help with this. if I can use 75% motor oil even adding a serving of diesel clean per tank would be a fraction of the cost of sticking with full diesel. I figure I can "adjust" the ration based on temperature. Ass some regular to the mixture to thin it in the winter and go heavier oil in the summer when its warmer (if all this proves to be safe off course) and assuming I can get ahold of this stuff free :-)

bullwinkle · #79 03-06-2007, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark DiSilvestro

I have about 18 gallons of used motor oil, including some Mobil-I, mostly from gas engines, that I haven't yet gotten around to recycling at my corner Sunoco station. I also have a couple of beater 240Ds to which I might be interested in adding a gallon or two of oil to each tankfull of diesel. Theories and conjecture are useful for discussion, but would anyone here that has actually burned WMO in thir diesel vehicles, either short-term or long-term, post their experiences, positive or negative?

Happy Motoring, Mark

I would stay away from burning synthetic oil-I've heard anecdotal stories about Cummins/Dodges trying to burn syn and raw oil leaking out of the exhaust-apparently the combustion temps aren't high enough to burn it. I personally have enough trouble keeping mine running right on dino diesel, not in a hurry to create more problems!

ZackaryMac · #80 03-06-2007, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I must be missing something here. Lead, copper, and aluminum are non ferrous metals. Magnets attract ferrous metals like iron, steel, and some stainless steel.

Just cheap stainless is somewhat magnetic. The good stuff isn't magnetic at all.
I worked on personal watercraft for years. When you dropped a real stainless nut/bolt/washer under the engine, where you can't fit your hand, it was a REAL pain to get out, as it couldn't be fished out with a magnet.

Matt L · #81 03-06-2007, 10:07 PM

The interesting part is that even high-quality SS is still about 95% iron. But the iron molecules are bound so tightly that they can't align to the magnet. They also can't bind easily to oxygen, for the same reason.

coadman · #82 03-06-2007, 10:46 PM

Check this link out, as this supplies plenty more info to further this topic discussion! :-) I have corresponded with this guy via email, as he had a 240D for sale about a month ago on Ebay. He still claims what they are doing works fine.
coadman

myfastfuel.com

Cervan · #83 03-07-2007, 01:08 AM

engine oil causes injector coking please dont use it unless you want your injectors to die prematurely. also you wouldnt put sand in your fuel tank would you? then why would you put fine metal particals in your tank? that would be like sandpaper on the rings!

Mark DiSilvestro · #84 03-07-2007, 08:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bullwinkle

I would stay away from burning synthetic oil-I've heard anecdotal stories about Cummins/Dodges trying to burn syn and raw oil leaking out of the exhaust-apparently the combustion temps aren't high enough to burn it. I personally have enough trouble keeping mine running right on dino diesel, not in a hurry to create more problems!

My stock of used oil only contains about 20% Mobil-I, and, if I decided to do it, I wouldn't consider mixing more than 20% WMO with diesel.
And yet someone, posting here awhile ago, claimed he had no problems burning Mobil-I. I didn't ask what ratio he was using though.
It sure would be nice to save $3 - $6 per fillup and get rid of the stuff without having to haul 18 jugs and crouch beside Sunoco's waste oil tank while I dump them, especially now with the return of arctic temperatures and snow today!

Happy Motoring, Mark

nerys · #85 03-07-2007, 02:17 PM

It seems all I need is a few 10micron fuel filters and a few 1micron filters.

I am guessing that the 10micro filters take care of the large obvious stuff and the 1micro filters take care of the fine particles like the metals (I can not see anything smaller than 1micro hurting any part of an engine or ip injectors etc.. what about you guys ?)

How do you think he gets rid of the water and acids ? Do the filters do that ??

Chris Taylor
http://www.nerys.com/

Jadavis · #86 03-07-2007, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZackaryMac

Just cheap stainless is somewhat magnetic.

Just to nit pick, 440 stainless is magnetic but is not cheap! Stainless steel is a generic term for a whole family of steel alloys.

I also sell 1 micron absolute rated filters at http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page6.html

-Jim

TerryS · #87 03-07-2007, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZackaryMac

Just cheap stainless is somewhat magnetic. The good stuff isn't magnetic at all.
I worked on personal watercraft for years. When you dropped a real stainless nut/bolt/washer under the engine, where you can't fit your hand, it was a REAL pain to get out, as it couldn't be fished out with a magnet.

The only stainless steels which are non-magnetic are the austenitic alloys, such as 304 &304L (low carbon), 308, 309, 316 & 316L .

Martensitic stainless steels, such as the 400 series, and CA6NM are not only not cheap, can be more expensive than the 300 series. Only reason the 300 series are used in marine applications (316) is the corrosion resistance to salts, though CA6NM is a universally better, stronger alloy (130Kpsi )

TerryS · #88 03-07-2007, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt L

The interesting part is that even high-quality SS is still about 95% iron. But the iron molecules are bound so tightly that they can't align to the magnet. They also can't bind easily to oxygen, for the same reason.

Wrong again. the 300 series alloys are 18% (minimum) chrome, 8%(min) Nickel, and the 316 alloy has 3-4% Molybdenum.

Carbon in the 300 series is between .03 and .08%
Carbon in the 400 series runs from .11-.15%

XR680R · #89 04-24-2007, 09:58 PM

When making Biodiesel the final step is washing the fuel. This is when I add the old engine oil. The water (yes water) pulls the dirt, metal, acid and other bad things to the bottom. Then the fuel is filtered through two 1 micron fuel filters. Here is a link to a prossess close to what I use:

http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_aleksnew.html

If you are running a fleet of vehicals the used oil piles up fast and is a good lube, tranny fluid is by far better. We have a 55 gallon drum and all the suspension fluid from the race bikes, tranny fluid and use motor oil goes into it and is added at the washing prossess of making the biodiesel. All water is removed from the fuel in the end and the fuel is almost clear.

Jadavis · #90 04-25-2007, 10:04 AM

www.biodieselcommunity.org

www.biodiesel.infopop.cc

Please don't trust your engine to the advice at The Jouney That Will Never Start.

-Jim