Best WVO Kits - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brewer · #1 01-29-2008, 03:52 PM

Another bump for Frybrid. Also want to add, I've never had a customer support problem, and have gone back a couple times to order extra stuff. I don't know if I'm unique, but I wouldn't expect to have problems. I would be prepared to wait though. Frybrid isn't Walmart and lead times for the quality parts are long.

And whatever you put into your car, I recommend that YOU be the one to do it. It's not an exact science, more like a hobby. Things will probably go wrong, maybe on the road... so knowing exactly how your system works is a big benefit. At the very least, help someone convert your car.

GREASY_BEAST · #2 01-29-2008, 04:09 PM

The best kit is the one you build yourself, because you can get more for your money without having to pay for someone else's labor. Whatever you do, make sure you have adequate instrumentation to determine how your conversion is performing. You should be getting at the bare minimum 140°F at the IP inlet and 180°F at the injectors. This is sub-par, and you should really be after 165°F at the IP inlet and 220°F at the injectors. Do not assume anything. Take measurements, and trust your data. Also, consider upgrading your injectors to a DN 0 SD 265 nozzle with higher pop-pressure (around 150bar/2200psi) to more completely burn the fuel. As stated before, avoid HIH due to cross-contamination worries. Also, with your instrumentation, make sure you have a method of determining when the FUEL (not the coolant) is hot enough to switch over.

Lastly, as stated previously, water removal is of the UTMOST importance, filtration is a close second. Make sure you have a sound method of getting the water out or you, your wallet, and your injection components will regret it! Either heat it to 212°F+ for extended periods of time, or use some other method (Letting the oil "settle" is simply not good enough).

EDIT: Also, a timing advance of a couple degrees may be beneficial to aid in burning the WVO more efficiently.

unclemark · #3 01-30-2008, 10:52 PM

So your saying to shy away from the Hose in Hose setup? How do i make a Hose on hose?

habraken · #4 01-30-2008, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unclemark

So your saying to shy away from the Hose in Hose setup? How do i make a Hose on hose?

take one hose and lay it beside another hose. make sure they touch each other.

latitude500 · #5 01-31-2008, 02:15 AM

We professionally install greasecar kits for people. But I would get a frybrid kit or a grease car kit. Over all the grease car kit is the best bang for the buck. You will need a flat plate heat exchanger for your system.

Any kit you get will need to be a two tank system, with 2 3 port metal valves. The greasecar kit uses viton valves. And you want to purchase a kit that has HIH and at least 1 year warranty, and the computer controller is a must, easy install and it takes the place of your coolant gauge, your fuel temp gauge and your fuel gauge. So your looking at saving money on three gauges for a total cost of $300. Plus it will pay for itself faster because it will switch you over to grease sooner.

I own a 87 300sdl with a grease car kit and a flat plate heat exchanger, I had it on my 98 jetta tdi for ever until it was totaled.

If you get the greasecar kit, you might think about going to mcmaster and picking up some metal tubing to replace the pex tubing. It allows your oil to warm up faster and stay hotter longer.

Feel free to email me if you have any questions,

pizzachef · #6 01-31-2008, 09:07 AM

Doesn't greasecar use copper for the in-tank heat exchanger? And greasecar doesn't come with a final heat exchanger right before the IP. VO will polymerize more quickly if its in contact with copper or steel. Aluminum is a better choice.

I'm another frybrid fan. They use aluminum for the fuel lines, valve bodies, and heat exchangers. And they use the hose-in-hose style supply and return lines...which is better for heating the fuel than hose-on-hose. If you're careful with your installation (i.e. don't kink the aluminum fuel line when you're working with it), you'll have no problems.

I think you'll do better going to the infopop, greasecar, or frybrid forums than here.

notfarnow · #7 01-31-2008, 11:03 AM

I'm surprised to see people recommending HiH for heat.

Above and beyond the cost and hassle to install, I can't imagine risking a HiH leak considering the widespread availability of heated fuel pickups, FPHEs and Vegtherms.

A good debate on HiH:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/3961053671?r=3961053671#3961053671

Biodiesel300TD · #8 01-31-2008, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pizzachef

And they use the hose-in-hose style supply and return lines...which is better for heating the fuel than hose-on-hose. If you're careful with your installation (i.e. don't kink the aluminum fuel line when you're working with it), you'll have no problems.

The thing is you won't know you have a problem. If the fuel line inside is leaking and allowing coolant into your fuel you can't see that until your engine eats itself up trying to run on coolant. Or you will be putting fuel into your coolant system which is going to lower the cooling affect. Despite the better heating capabilities of the HIH style, it is safer to use HOH. If you bundle the fuel lines and coolant lines tightly, and insulate them you'll be fine. And injector line heater work wonders. They get up to something like 250F and they are after the IP so there is no worry about wear on the IP and you are heating the oil up to way beyond the suggested minimum of 160F that everyone says you need to be at. With my HOH setup with injector line heaters, the injector bodies get up to over 180F.