Im trying to find a way to have the convenience of a single tank system and still get the oil to the correct temp to be safe for the engine. The problem, I see, is to get the oil to temp on start-up. Injector line heaters and an upgraded glow plug relay (to keep the plugs on longer) are nice. Has anybody ever hooked them up so they could be turned on remotely via a key fob switch?

Also the 220v plug-in devices such as the lower hose heater that deiselgiant sells has had good reviews. 220 V pad heaters could be placed on the oil pan and (I have heard) on the IP.

Im looking at installing an oversized aperature at the fuel tank opening. Possibly a vegtherm in the spare wheel well to heat things up initially and then a lift pump next to that. A HIH takes it to the engine compartment where there is a large flat plate heat exchanger, through a heated filter then another vegtherm just before it reaches the IP. A continuous loop system returning to the tank completes the circle.

My worry is startup. I dont mind plugging the car in. I have an outlet in the garage and a switch inside sO I can switch it on it the AM. In my ever so humble opinion there HAS to be a way to make a viable single tank system. I have heard cutting wvo with 5% RUG reduces viscosity, THAT could help the single tank system.

Of course I plan to do all the maintenance to the engine before conversion.
ANY IDEAS?

Where are you located?

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

he can leave it running all the time... the WVO whould be cheap enough to do that... then no start up issues, cold WVO issues... there is the Viable one tank setup

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-Trevor

OBK #12
1980 300SD 333,XXX miles - Totaled
1986 Mazda RX-7 212,XXX miles - impounded and auctioned off
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited 33,000- SEGR, Provent, Fumoto

It is possible to do a one-tank setup correctly. You don't need all that much:

- Injector line heaters (these will heat the injector lines to over 200F in less than 5 minutes. I have a switch built into my dash to turn them on/off (no need to have them on when I'm running on 100% D2)
- Flat plate heat exchanger. Anywhere from 10-30 plates will work fine.
- An electric pump, 6-9 PSI, to help pull the thick oil out of your tank.
- At ALL times, HOT or COLD, mix at least 10% diesel in your tank with the oil. This prevents polymerization. 10% diesel will work at about 40F at up. Below that add more diesel (as a general rule, add 10% for every 10 degrees below 40, eg 30F = 20%, 20F = 30%, 10F = 40%, etc.) and, if it's below 20F, some kerosene (5-10%).
- Always thoroughly dewater your oil (there are various methods for doing this)
- Always filter your oil to a AT LEAST 1 micron. 0.5 microns is preferable.
- Test EVERY BATCH of oil (using the pan test) to ensure that it is virtually water-free.

Optionally, you could also make a heater for your primary fuel filter (I can send you plans for this super-easy design).

Everyone who I know who has experienced failure on WVO, it has been due to improper pre-filtering, relying WAY too much on on-board filters. Also, single OR dual tank conversions should always cut the WVO with 10% diesel.

Your priorities in a single-tank are as follows:
1. CLEAN the fuel THOROUGHLY.
2. ALWAYS have at least 10% diesel.
3. Let the injector lines get hot before starting.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

There's definitely an exact science to single-tank conversions, and thus the vast majority of people do it wrong. However, don't let your obviously limited knowledge of SVO blind you to the reality of working SVO systems. I have experience. One can listen to the people with experience, or one can listen to the guy who takes every opportunity to bash on SVO (with coincidentally VERY little experience).

If you DON'T add an electric lift pump, then you're NOT doing a correct single-tank conversion.

Gotta love forums...

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

If you need an electric pump that means your oil is too thick, it must be heated first.

Wrong. Your oil only needs to be heated/made "less thick" before it hits your IP, and preferably before your filters.

There are two ways to accomplish this: 1) an electric lift pump, or 2) an electric heated fuel pickup. Either way, you'll be using electric components.
I recommend the electric lift pump because it's a bit easier to install than a heated pickup, draws less electricity, and requires no "warm-up" time.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

How does a lift pump make cold wvo less thick?

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"spreading a trail of obnoxious where ever we go"
1981 300sd w/ 341,500 miles

http://www.wecrash.com/pics/ddda_banner.gif

It doesn't. It compensates for high viscosity that the engine's lift pump can't handle and it means the installer is doing things wrong.

Just remember that the OM6xx were NOT designed, built, tuned or even imagined by Rudolph Diesel. They were the design and creation of Daimler-Benz AG some 70years after the first practical Diesel engine was made and some 60 years after Dr. Diesels death. Technology made HUGE strides in that time and MB's Diesels have next to nothing in common with the first engine and were NOT "designed" to run veggie oil/peanut oil/waste oil, to state otherwise is a misconception.

The manuals state clean Diesel #2, Winterized #1 or #2 with a mixture of kerosene should be used. Given that the injection system is made to single micron precision (1µm), I'd bet Mercedes and Bosch know what they are talking about when they say what fuels should be used.

How about modeling your setup after an Elsbett Kit. I know there are plenty of Elsbett single tank kits running around here in Chicago and Madison, WI that are years in service. Maybe ask Prairie Fire Biofuels in Madison for some input. They have been a certified installer for a while.

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1987 300SDL-268k mi

YES! Now you're correct... except for the part about the installer doing something wrong (this coming from the person who has never had or done or driven a 1-tank install)... again you have two choices: electric heated pickup, or extra pump.

The pump is the more efficient way of doing it. BUT: I will admit, if you live in Alaska, or Minnesota, etc... you should do both.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

I considered the Elsbett system and have spoken with Prairie fuels. They do run straight WVO above 50F but then start diluting with diesel as temp drops toward freezing. Below freezing, they run straight diesel. If you live in a cold climate, a two tank system is the only way you're going to run WVO.

John

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Certified Registered Nurse Anesthetist (CRNA)
2002 F250 powerstroke with Plantdrive WVO conversion
1983 300SD 190K miles ,sold
2006 E320 CDI

I've only run SVO here in Phoenix in the summer because of the heat! And that's when I take the time to get it. I mostly run Biodiesel because it's better for the engine and it helps our clean air priorities here, not to mention, it's so easy to get and supports American Farmers and has similar characteristics to Diesel #2.

Also, Biodiesel doesn't require any "conversions" that eat up the cost of cheap oil! If you live in a cold climate though, install the two tank system at least!

You should NEVER run "straight" WVO. Always always always cut with 10% diesel.

There have been tests done on the polymerization properties of diesel, biodiesel, SVO, WVO, and WVO cut with 10% diesel. Only straight WVO (even filtered and dewatered) causes polymerization issues. When cut with D2, that polymerization is about 99% eliminated. So... if you're running SVO, then if it's hot enough it's fine. Not the case with WVO.

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'79 300SD
'82 Chevy Chevette diesel

I live in Oregon. It gets cold enough (around freezing sometimes) to cause problems. I didnt want to start any fights or anything. It seems that with the engineering brains on this board there would be more than "CANT DO IT". Seems kind of "final"-like. Im glad the wright bros didnt listen to all the naysayers and I wont either.

I understand there must be concessions to convenience when running WVO. Im simply trying to eliminate as many as I can. The LOVECRAP system kills cars. They have given a black-eye to the wvo movement. I have seen their system (SHOCKING!) and am simply trying to make the single tank system more viable for different parts of the country.

Electric heat is the only way to heat the oil for startup. I like the idea of a remote button on the keyfob actuating the glow plugs and the injector line heaters. I like the plug-in heaters of dieselgiant and the pad heaters for the oilpan and IP on cold mornings. Perhaps a remote to actuate all the electrical heating components (Im thinking two Vegtherms, one at the tank opening in the spare wheelwell and one just before the IP) and the pick up pump.

I read on here before that 5-10% regular unleaded gas was the correct fuel to cut the WVO with. Now I hear that 10% diesel. I dont want to start anymore trouble so I'll do some more searching.

THANKS for all the input. GREAT STUFF!