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  #1  
Old 03-07-2013, 04:59 PM
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WMO Filtering (How do you do it?)

So I've been googling this and I only seem to run across veggie oil filtering setups.

Can anyone share with me the way in which they filter their waste motor oil?

I've heard people talk of filter housings that use sock type filters that can be washed or cheaply replaced. My thought was using like 3 filters in increasing filtration (like 10, 5, 1 micron or something).

Links to places you bought your equipment would be appreciated.

Looking to do this on a budget, this is not a serious commitment.

The oil doesn't have water in it, but I've got a full 55 gallon drum so I thought about running a 20% blend or so this summer. Cut my fuel costs a bit and get rid of the oil. Not looking to run 100% WMO.
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  #2  
Old 03-07-2013, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
So I've been googling this and I only seem to run across veggie oil filtering setups.

Can anyone share with me the way in which they filter their waste motor oil?

I've heard people talk of filter housings that use sock type filters that can be washed or cheaply replaced. My thought was using like 3 filters in increasing filtration (like 10, 5, 1 micron or something).

Links to places you bought your equipment would be appreciated.

Looking to do this on a budget, this is not a serious commitment.

The oil doesn't have water in it, but I've got a full 55 gallon drum so I thought about running a 20% blend or so this summer. Cut my fuel costs a bit and get rid of the oil. Not looking to run 100% WMO.
I would focus on buying or building yourself a centrifuge system and heat the oil while you are cleaning it. I've been using one I got from PAbiodiesel, then I reversed engineered it by using a pump and motor from a oil furnance system. but you will still need a centifuge from them then collect all the fittings at your local hardware store. You would save 50% if not more from buying a complete kit.
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2013, 02:56 PM
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This is simpler. Go on eBay and find a Seller that has 2 Micron Polyester Filter Bags.
Hang the Bag over a suitable container in a clean dust free area and pour the WMO or through the Bag and wait till it drains.
Once it drains out of the Bag it will be filtered better than if it had gone throuh an regular Oil Filter.
Physical Filtering will not remove anything disolved in the Oil; on solid particles.

Put the filter Oil in a suitable Container with a Lid.
When the Ditry Bag is done dripping put it inside of a Plastic Bag and Tie Wrap the opening of the Bag.

People use the Bags for WVO also but WVO has never been filtered before and a 2 micron Bag would plug up quickly. So you would need several Micron levels of size to filter down to 2 Microns.

The Polyester Bag Filters are supposed to be washable but for WMO I don't think that is needed or even possible with out spending on some Solvent.
Washing the Bags after WVO use I simply don't know about.

,
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  #4  
Old 03-27-2013, 11:32 AM
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to filter WMO, cut with some gas, like 1 gallon to every ten of WMO, (i get old gas from peoples boats and rv's and such for doing this, so its free) this thins it considerably, then pour through first a 1 micron filter sack, then a half-micron filter sack.....will run right through the sack quickly, store it dry of course, and use no more than 40 or so percent of this mix per tankful of diesel, and you are good.....filtering and using waste transmission oil and hydraulic oil in this method, this oil is much better to run filtered, as WMO, imho.....and u do not add gas to the atf or hydraulic oil......i have run 75 percent atf with no oil heating system in my 240, with no bad results.....i am sure that with the preheating system, atf and even wmo performance and burnability would increase considerably.....
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  #5  
Old 03-27-2013, 12:35 PM
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Support your filter bag or it will stretch beyond it's micron rating. Build a support tube with a bottom and sides out of screen.
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  #6  
Old 08-07-2013, 09:12 PM
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I pump from wherever it is into my 5 gal "clean" drum through a disposable inline filter. Add diesel Then in the empty tank and fill with diesel let the Racor sort out the rest. If the restriction gauge shows high Ie; really thick batch of oil I thin it out some, though NC summer heat is keeping things pretty loose right now. Right now I have a tank of 8 gal used diesel oil and the rest No.2. The filter suction is only nominally different over straight No.2.
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  #7  
Old 11-05-2013, 02:23 PM
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I did a bit of research on this a while back. Havent done it yet, but if I were I would: cut the oil with RUG (20%). Let that settle. Centrifuge it, running it through a few filters (think water separator). After several circulations I'd run it into its final tank and cut it with diesel to desired %.

I'm no expert tho. That is just what I gathered from my research. Heating the oil, as mentioned previously, might aid in running it through any fuel filters.

Some people will just dump it in the fuel tank straight from an oil change tho, relying on the oil filters filtration.

Good luck!
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  #8  
Old 11-27-2013, 07:50 AM
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I use a small centrifuge. Oil is heated by a 2400 watt 120V water heater element. Fluid circulation is accomplished with a Toyota Camry power steering pump driven by a 1 hp 120V motor. Pressure regulation is accomplished manually using a bypass circuit. Oil is heated to 155 degrees F with thermostatic regulation. Oil returning to the tank from the filter is dumped onto a flat plate and allowed to splash before returning to the tank to encourage moisture and light solvents to separate and evaporate. Oil viscosity prior to the start of cleaning is measured and adjusted using a drip test similar to checking paint consistency before spraying. Used gasoline engine oil or ATF is filtered separately from used diesel oil. Diesel oil has much more soot and the dispersants it contains work against the soot settling out. The end result is that obtaining clean waste diesel oil takes more energy so I filter it in smaller batches.

Most people seem to use the logic that the OE fuel filter is 10 microns so filtering to some nominal smaller micron size is sufficient. This completely neglects the quantity of smaller particles which may be present after filtering. Running a large quantity of small particles through a system designed for clean fuel will still cause wear. Just because 1000 grit sandpaper won't remove paint quickly doesn't mean it can't damage a finish. I have tried filter bags, paper, carbon, screen, and several other methods to clean oil and I feel the centrifuge is the most time and energy efficient to get oil to a point that I feel is acceptable. The only thing I'd like to change is to switch to a larger centrifuge to clean the diesel oil better.
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Last edited by 1project2many; 12-02-2013 at 07:13 AM.
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  #9  
Old 11-28-2013, 08:00 AM
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I use old jeans with no holes,and cut my oil with 50% diesel then filter.I burn 25% oil in winter,and 50% in summer
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  #10  
Old 12-02-2013, 03:25 AM
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if you are able i would start at a heated bowl type centrifuge and work backward from there as to what you can afford.
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  #11  
Old 01-23-2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1project2many View Post
I use a small centrifuge. Oil is heated by a 2400 watt 120V water heater element. Fluid circulation is accomplished with a Toyota Camry power steering pump driven by a 1 hp 120V motor. Pressure regulation is accomplished manually using a bypass circuit. Oil is heated to 155 degrees F with thermostatic regulation. Oil returning to the tank from the filter is dumped onto a flat plate and allowed to splash before returning to the tank to encourage moisture and light solvents to separate and evaporate. Oil viscosity prior to the start of cleaning is measured and adjusted using a drip test similar to checking paint consistency before spraying. Used gasoline engine oil or ATF is filtered separately from used diesel oil. Diesel oil has much more soot and the dispersants it contains work against the soot settling out. The end result is that obtaining clean waste diesel oil takes more energy so I filter it in smaller batches.

Most people seem to use the logic that the OE fuel filter is 10 microns so filtering to some nominal smaller micron size is sufficient. This completely neglects the quantity of smaller particles which may be present after filtering. Running a large quantity of small particles through a system designed for clean fuel will still cause wear. Just because 1000 grit sandpaper won't remove paint quickly doesn't mean it can't damage a finish. I have tried filter bags, paper, carbon, screen, and several other methods to clean oil and I feel the centrifuge is the most time and energy efficient to get oil to a point that I feel is acceptable. The only thing I'd like to change is to switch to a larger centrifuge to clean the diesel oil better.
1project2many, how many miles have you run on WMO filtered with your centrifuge? Have you ever sent a sample of your centrifuged oil to a lab for soot analysis? Don't know if true or not but I recall reading somewhere soot is too light and too small in size to be centrifuged out from diesel WMO.
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  #12  
Old 02-05-2014, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
1project2many, how many miles have you run on WMO filtered with your centrifuge? Have you ever sent a sample of your centrifuged oil to a lab for soot analysis? Don't know if true or not but I recall reading somewhere soot is too light and too small in size to be centrifuged out from diesel WMO.
I tried all of the above means to filter WMO, the best result and still going is using a pressure driven centrifuge. I have 42K on my Dodge Ram running on WMO, this is a 2012 6.7, it is not an older version. That's how confident I am with my process. One thing to note if you are going to run WMO. the mixing process is as criticle as cleaning it. Clean the WMO to the point of returning it to the yellow to orange color, then mix the 20% RUG. Mix that batch for a good two hours to ensure is completely mixed together. Now you are ready to use it, oh yeah no smoke. To assist or just give yourself a warm a fuzzy you are burning complete. Add hydrogen via HOD. Good luck. Another thing I run this on my 1984 300D but not as high of a ration as the truck 30% at best.
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  #13  
Old 02-05-2014, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by WMO Madness View Post
I tried all of the above means to filter WMO, the best result and still going is using a pressure driven centrifuge. I have 42K on my Dodge Ram running on WMO, this is a 2012 6.7, it is not an older version. That's how confident I am with my process. One thing to note if you are going to run WMO. the mixing process is as criticle as cleaning it. Clean the WMO to the point of returning it to the yellow to orange color, then mix the 20% RUG. Mix that batch for a good two hours to ensure is completely mixed together. Now you are ready to use it, oh yeah no smoke. To assist or just give yourself a warm a fuzzy you are burning complete. Add hydrogen via HOD. Good luck. Another thing I run this on my 1984 300D but not as high of a ration as the truck 30% at best.
So you are able to pressure centrifuge black soot laden diesel WMO black to yellow orange color? I didn't expect that is possible.
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  #14  
Old 02-05-2014, 06:11 PM
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I think if it was warm enough you could probably most, if not all the suspended particles from the WMO.

so in your 84 300D you are running 70%WMO to 30% RUG? do you think that has to do with your weather and the viscosity of the final product?
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  #15  
Old 02-10-2014, 10:19 PM
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Ive been doing this for years. I pump my oil into a tank atop a shelf. I let it gravity feed through two water separators and coarse filters down to another drum. That drum has a pa biodiesel centrifuge atop it. After the drain down, 30% winter, 60% in the summer, I top off with diesel and run the centrifuge for 6 hrs. Great fuel with no issues. I pull and clean the centrifuge immediately after shutting it down.
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