SAFETY - III : A Case study
Death by Metal Fume Fever
Posthumous Demonstration by Jim Paw-Paw Wilson
http://www.pawpawsforge.com
May 13, 2005
http://www.anvilfire.com/iForge/tutor/safety3/


Please do NOT become a statistic.
The dangers in welding, cutting, heating and grinding should never be underestimated.
This does not happen as often as in the past, but needs to be brought to the attention of new DIY, and younger members.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxyacetylene

http://www.oxarc.com/welding_safety_guide.ydev

Welding Safety on the Farm
http://www.umext.maine.edu/onlinepubs/htmpubs/farmseries/2320.htm

http://www.afscme.org/health/faq-weld.htm

http://www.usq.edu.au/faculty/arts/SAFETY/SWP/swp0391.htm

http://agsci.oregonstate.edu/research/FST_manual/02-07.pdf

http://www.cdc.gov/nasd/docs/d000801-d000900/d000873/d000873.html

http://publicsafety.tufts.edu/firemarshal/contractors/weld.html

http://publicsafety.tufts.edu/firemarshal/contractors/weld.html

http://www.occupationalhazards.com/safety_zones/45/article.php?id=4407

http://maco.cog.mt.us/workerscomp&safety/SafeWelding.htm

http://www.key-to-metals.com/Article29.htm

http://www.worksafe.nt.gov.au//corporate/bulletins/pdf/11-15/15.04.11.pdf

http://www.worksafe.nt.gov.au//corporate/bulletins/pdf/11-15/15.04.11.pdf


grinding toxic fumes
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=grinding+toxic+fumes&btnG=Search

grinding operation toxic fumes
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=grinding+operation+toxic+fumes&btnG=Search

welding caused dust explosion
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=welding+caused+dust+explosion+&btnG=Search

Welding Explosion and burns
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=Welding.+Explosion+and+burns+&btnG=Search

welding in garage caused home fire
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&lr=&q=welding+in+garage+caused+home+fire&btnG=Search

Also, remember that most of your time spend 'welding' is actually spent grinding. Using the angle grinder to shape metal, using the wire brush head to clean metal, using the sanding head to smooth welds, etc, and that the noise from that can be very dangerous and uncomfortable.

I always wear a full face shield, the visor that comes down over your whole face, and full ear protection. They are basic and inexpensive, but very effective. The visor is better than goggles, because it keeps particles out of your nose and mouth and hair, and the ear protection keeps you hearing for years to come.

Also, recall the studies that Mercedes did a long time ago that guided their design choices, the greatest factor in driver fatigue is noise, and the same is true when you are working with a welder and grinder.

If I don't wear the ear protection, I'm worn out after just a little while, but with the ear protection, I can go all day without getting tired (and have, on many occasions). Seriously, it makes a bigger difference than people realize in your comfort!

Thanks for the safety reminders, whunter.

peace,
sam

__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

barry123400
Registered User Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Nova Scotia, Canada.
Posts: 753

For those that did not know again this is good information. The thing you run across in cars is galvanized steel and other propietary metal coatings. If your not positive what your welding on ask somebody or check. You do not want to weld on this stuff anyways as the weld can be so contaminated that it has no strength mind the safety hazzard. Anytime the arc is doing something unusual like going off colour or making excess smoke you are getting an important clue that something is unusual. That said the benifits of proper application of welding technoligy are enourmous. With care and understanding you can do work at home that is not substandard and not a safety risk. Plus since you do not weld all day for a living you are not undergoing long heavy exposure as even the byproducts of normal welding are not particularily good for you. Just my two cents worth. Would never be without my welders, plazma cutter etc. Come to think of it another liability of working on our cars is the fire risk.Just think before you apply a weld to an area is really about all it takes. Plus have a really good fire extinguisher handy. I prefer the larger halon units as there is no after residue (white powder) but not able to get refils now. Think the stuff attacked the ozone layer. But it was good.

Very useful information. Iron, regular steel are not that hazardous, but as you said, other metals are more hazardous. Metal fume fever is caused by repeated long term highe exposue to many welding metals. The average DIYer is not really at risk of this. Of greater concern, as you said, are the galvanizing coatings which may contain some very toxic metals (lead, cadmium), or stainless steel which contains very toxic chromium.

On another note.. while we continue our discussion of hazards associated with working on cars, I was suprized when looking through my MBZ manuals, in preparation for a valve job, to find that the exhaust valves have their core filled with sodium....no, not sodium chloride (table salt)....but pure sodium metal...apparently it acts as a heat sink to protect the valves (neat idea). DO NOT TRY TO ACCESS THIS STUFF BY SAWING OR GRINDING INTO A VALVE....THIS STUFF IS PROBABLY THE MOST DANGEROUS SUBSTANCE IN THE CAR...AND I MEAN REALLY, REALLY DANGEROUS. IT REACTS WITH WATER TO EXPLODE VIOLENTLY SENDING OUT FLAMES, SHRAPNEL, MOLTEN METAL...LEAVE THE EXHAUST VALVES INTACT!!!

MARK

__________________
1984 300TD Wagon, 407,800 mi (current daily driver)
1985 300DT Sedan, 330,000 mi (gone to that great autobahn in the sky)

Danger:
You really do not want to work with this element.

It's ELEMENTAL
http://education.jlab.org/itselemental/ele011.html

In high school chemistry we took a small piece of sodium the size of a pea with a forceps (do not touch it with your fingers the moisture in your sweat will set it off) and dropped it in a beaker of water. It blew the beaker to hell. Only a fool would grind a sodium cooled valve in a valve grinder especially if the grinder had water solluable oil for a coolant. I often thought that a chunk of sodium the size of a softball would work great for lake fishing.

__________________
1983 300-D turbo
1985 300-D turbo
1959 Harley Panhead chopper
1929 Ford coupe restored
I hang out with Boneheaddoctor at Schuman Automotive OBK#5
All liberals are mattoids but not all mattoids are liberal.

Reminds me of the good old days of making go-cart and minibike frames out of galvanized conduit. Never Killed me, but I definitely experienced some bad trips out of it. Biggest thing in ventilation. Every since the time I nearly blacked out(While Seeing strange blobs in my vision) I have only welded this stuff outside my shop with fans blowing the fumes passed me. The only reason I use this crap is you can buy it at any hardware store and its cheap.
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Edit Note:
Heavy metal poisoning/damage is cumulative, depends upon concentration, and number of exposures. Please don't risk your health. whunter

As a motorcyclist I believe this is true. When wearing hearing protection inside the helmet I am far less stressed and rider longer than when I do not have them in. Come to think of it, when driving my convertable I get tired of it much faster than when I am in my ubercruiser W124 (or maybe it's the type of road.. LOL). I do find that sound of any type affects my concentration and concentration required energy. Less noise, less energy required to stay on task is how I see it.

__________________
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Yup! Hearing protection is one of the most important things cited by long distance riders, Ironbutts and the like, for preventing fatigue. Its not just for long term health (which is important) but for short term comfort as well.

peace,
sam

__________________
"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry."

1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ)
2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG)

Improper adjusting oxy acetl. torch regulators can lead to an explosion. At 15 PSI acetl. can explode by itself! Look at your regulators and see the red line? What happens is folk use the regulator adjustment for a on/off valve and turn it the wrong way. For normal welding 15 PSI O2 and 7 Acetl.
When welding 1/4" or thicker steel with a small MIG rig, you can compensate for the small amp / volt output by applying heat to the steel before welding.
When welding cracks, drill a hole just past each end of the crack before welding. Then weld from each end of the crack to the center.
To stress releave a weld: in a butt weld use 4 passes. 1st almost fills the grove, 2nd & 3rd reinforce the sides of the weld and the last weld does not touch the base metal. Now all the shrinkage stress is in the higher tincle (sp?) strenght material ... the weld metal.
Most MIG welders (wire feeders) use .035 or .045 wire commonly called Hard Wire in the trade and common wire is 'hard' as in if you drill into it you will know it is hard.
Adjust the wire drive rollers till you can just form a ball of wire in your gloved hand. Any tighter and you damage the rollers.
Allow for shrinkage when welding. Two plates butt welded will peal up the outer edges if not jigged (up thats the term) properly.
Never cool a weld with water. This will make the heat zone next to the weld even more liable to crack than if allowed to air cool.
Most weld failures are just next to the weld. This is the 'critical heat zone' where shrinkage stress and material grain change is max.
For max. life in two rubbing surfaces make one surface soft. Like materials wear faster.
Welding rod #'s have meaning! 6010 was the standard for all position bridge work. It is 60k pounds per sq. inch. 7018 is 70k PSI. The last two digets refer to the type of weld position, flux, ... 18 is a low hydrogen rod flux, hydrogen is a no-no in welds. 13 is reverse polarity (less heat put into the weldment), 14, 24 flow easily but will not 'hang' for over head welding or other 'out of position' welding.
If your stick welder is a 'buzz box' type, make sure it will burn off the flux on 18 series rods before you buy many lbs of rods. Welders with copper windings are perfered. Aluminum windings are crap. Often you can find large (dimension) old stick wleders with shot connectors, cables and 'stingers' (rod holder). These old, heavy machines produce a much improved welding arc compaired to cheap buzz boxes. Sometimes you can pick these up for scrap $.
One trick for welding very thin metal is to use a 4" cut off wheel to make a 1/16" slot where you want to weld. Now take some 1/16" sheet metal and fill the gap leaving 1/2" or so of the new sheet metal extending into the car. This 'extra' metal lessons warpage by removing heat.
Unless you can prepare and paint both sides of a car body weldment, you will have rust through in a few years. Look at the inside of all restoration projects that have been welded.
Welding thin metal like auto bodies: never weld more than 1" at a time and skip around, a little here, a little there, letting the metal cool. If posible, use a coper backing to remove weld heat and reduce warping from heat.
Aside from fire ext. keep a pail of dry sand near the welder. Using a chemical fire ext. in a car will make a big mess but often just a little sand will smother a welding fire. Never leave a welding project to cool on it's own. Plan on sticking around while it cools. Even a mouse can drop something on a piece of hot metal and cause a fire.
Always cover all glass with plywood or heavy canvas when grinding and welding.
If you have to weld on a monoque (sp?) body/frame: before welding spray water into all hollows. Small welding 'dingle balls' (spatter) can fall into very inaccesable spots like firewall/ductwork where mice and other critters have been depositing trash for years. Firewall fires are not fun and cost more than water.
Welding near full fuel tanks if far safer then particaly full tanks. Just for fun, try putting out a match by dunking it in a cup ao gassoline. It is the air-fuel mixture that can explode.

Health safety, fire safety, area safety!

#1. Wrecking your health for a car repair is foolish.

#2. If you accept and prepare for setting the vehicle on fire, and putting it out, you and the vehicle will survive!

#3. Clear a wide work area (escape route), spark/danger zone!

******NEVER WELD USED FUEL TANKS******

******NEVER WELD SHOCK ABSORBERS******

******NEVER WELD HYDRAULIC ACCUMULATORS******

******NEVER WELD STEERING OR BRAKE PARTS******



http://www.google.com/search?q=Welding+the+wrong+metals+can+kill+you+&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1

You know, I really appreciate these safety reminders wHunter. Last week (or maybe two weeks ago) you reminded us of the "leaf collector" on the w126, and the potential for it to start a fire.

It reminded me that in my old Jeep, I had a fire extinguisher. My dad, a long-haul trucker, is required by law to carry an extinguisher in his truck.

Unfortunately, I gave my old extinguisher away awhile back. you've inspired me to buy one for my Benz, just in case (and you never know, it might not even be your car you're putting out, eh?).


Ten or twelve years ago, I had a BEAUTIFUL 1979 Thunderbird (old-lady-owned, very low mileage, almost show-quality car). I was driving through town one day, and noticed smoke. I got out to look, just as the whole car caught fire. I barely had time to grab my wallet and bag out before the fire department arrived and soaked the whole car. Between the fire and the water, she was ruined. Ruined. The nice firemen told me that it looked like the carburetor had spilled fuel out, or maybe a line right near the carb had broken. Lesson learned.

__________________
'88 300SE | Midnight Blue | 237k
'09 Subaru Impreza | red | 0k

I worked in an iron foundary many years ago. I've seen drive shafts and shock absorbers fall into the ladle just before the molten iron went in. Anything that has a sealed hollow in it will work for this. The results are quite spectacular! You just don't want to be standing too close while you are watching the fireworks.

__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

"James", here is the (health/safety) reason why you should NOT weld galvanized patch panels into your 300TD.

Metal fume fever:
A disease of welders and others working with volatilized metals, marked by sudden thirst, metallic taste in the mouth, high fever with chills, sweating, and leukocytosis.

Metal fume fever:

http://www.wrongdiagnosis.com/m/metal_fume_fever/intro.htm

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metal_fume_fever