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Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Do It Yourself Links & Resources > Bodywork - Repair, Paint, Tools, Tips & Tricks

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  #1  
Old 03-26-2011, 02:17 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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The black is the e-coat. You're right, that is where most of the rust prevention is and it is also where the lead and cadnium are. Don't sand it if you can avoid it.

Also, do not spray this outside. E-coat cannot handle any UV. I've seen e-coated car bodies left outside start to chaulk in 8 hours.

That checking would be really strange on an OEM finish. Was this car refinished before?
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2011, 04:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk View Post
The black is the e-coat. You're right, that is where most of the rust prevention is and it is also where the lead and cadnium are. Don't sand it if you can avoid it.

Also, do not spray this outside. E-coat cannot handle any UV. I've seen e-coated car bodies left outside start to chaulk in 8 hours.

That checking would be really strange on an OEM finish. Was this car refinished before?
Thanks for the tip - unfortunately I've got no choice but to carry on with my outside spraying for the big bits at least... If I can't get a good finish I'll take it to a spray shop (honest I'm not so proud that I'll refuse to admit defeat!).

Was the car refinished before? You bet ya! I took the car to a local spray shop to get a quote for the roof and the owner was quite rude about the standard of the refinishing work... you live and learn... I figured it was a good car to learn to spray on then...

...one thing is for sure I'll be looking more critically at the paint work on my next purchase now that I know how long refinishing takes.
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1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Last edited by Stretch; 03-26-2011 at 04:30 PM. Reason: Added a not...
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  #3  
Old 04-02-2011, 03:32 PM
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Progress again

It was sunny today so I got the final colour coat on one of the front wings (sorry - still painting outside until I get the garage cleaned out).



Next step - clear coat varnish.

Any tips for this stage? (It will be done inside even though it is still spring time there is now an alarming amount of crud in the air)
Attached Thumbnails
I've taken your advice and started to paint!-w123-front-wing-colour-done.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 04-04-2011, 06:26 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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That checking is one place where I would strip then try to sand smooth w/o upsetting the ecoat.

Your fender looks a lot nicer. You seem to be getting the hang of spraying. Just make sure you do not put too much basecoat on, or you will see some of the checking you saw before.
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___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
Well, I sold it. Just got to be too much to keep up with.
First time I haven't owned a MB since 1983.

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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  #5  
Old 04-06-2011, 11:28 PM
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Location: Moncure, NC (near Raleigh)
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Nice work so far!!! The hours spent keep getting longer as you go on, so don't get burnt out! Putting it all back together is another chore!

After this brown guide coats are you going to spray one last primer coat and block it out? I think that will provde a good final sand and straightness.

I saw in one of the pics the sanding block you were using... 5" or so. I'd recommend a longer block (8" or longer) for all the large surfaces. The criss cross pattern will make it straight as can be. A small sanding block can leave a wavy body more easily.

Yes - Painting outside in Spring is much better. I did mine in Fall, and while the temps were great the bugs were still around !!


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  #6  
Old 04-07-2011, 02:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1stbenznc View Post
Nice work so far!!! The hours spent keep getting longer as you go on, so don't get burnt out! Putting it all back together is another chore!

After this brown guide coats are you going to spray one last primer coat and block it out? I think that will provde a good final sand and straightness.

I saw in one of the pics the sanding block you were using... 5" or so. I'd recommend a longer block (8" or longer) for all the large surfaces. The criss cross pattern will make it straight as can be. A small sanding block can leave a wavy body more easily.

Yes - Painting outside in Spring is much better. I did mine in Fall, and while the temps were great the bugs were still around !!


Thanks for the tips - I have been using my longer Eastwood true flat block as well!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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