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  #16  
Old 02-24-2015, 07:34 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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You're right, it may be the flash. Can you take them outside and take a picture in sunlight (on one of the two days Holland has sun this time of year).

1000-2000 grit sand can help a lot with the smoothness of the plastic panels. Usually, smoothness of the panels is due to sanding prep.

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  #17  
Old 02-25-2015, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk View Post
You're right, it may be the flash. Can you take them outside and take a picture in sunlight (on one of the two days Holland has sun this time of year).

1000-2000 grit sand can help a lot with the smoothness of the plastic panels. Usually, smoothness of the panels is due to sanding prep.
Not this time of the year! I'll see how it goes later on this year.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #18  
Old 04-10-2015, 11:38 AM
Bill '90 300E's Avatar
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I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my front bumper cover. What do you think is the best procedure for cleaning? What type of paint (acrylic, etc.) is best for this application? Should I use primer? Do I need a flex agent? Any recommendations on where to buy the paint? I'm not looking to spend "professional" $$$ on this project. The plan is to prep the surface well, use aerosol paint (no gun) and take my time. I've done some painting in the past and have always had positive results. Any input is appreciated...
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  #19  
Old 04-10-2015, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill '90 300E View Post
I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my front bumper cover. What do you think is the best procedure for cleaning? What type of paint (acrylic, etc.) is best for this application? Should I use primer? Do I need a flex agent? Any recommendations on where to buy the paint? I'm not looking to spend "professional" $$$ on this project. The plan is to prep the surface well, use aerosol paint (no gun) and take my time. I've done some painting in the past and have always had positive results. Any input is appreciated...
Like jmk says a spray gun is probably going to be better than a can. But if you don't have one - well you just don't have a choice do you? I find the can nozzles get bunged up and mess up the finish if you are not careful - even spraying upside down and / or soaking in a solvent tends not help in my experience - particularly as you get to the end of the paint in the can.

As for the primer - I did use a plastic primer for the parts that got sanded right down to the plastic. You could use a flex agent if you really wanted - I didn't bother and it seems OK so far. I didn't apply the paint too thickly.

I can't recommend places to buy paint however as you're on the other side of the world (I'm straddling the UK and Holland at the moment)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #20  
Old 04-11-2015, 04:43 PM
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Here's what I use for the spot repairs.


Spray System, Guns & Paint Touch Up Sprayer | Preval

It makes it simple and economical. I can mix up exactly how much I need and it cuts way down on the excess I usually end up with when I mix up my gun's cup.

I can mix the base coat and clear at the same time without either using two guns or having to clean the gun in between the two.

I do find myself having to spray extra coats, mainly because I probably cut the color too much. Still waste less paint than when I use my HVLP gun.

Want one of THESE so bad!
http://www.turbineproducts.com/sprayfine-a301-3-stage-turbine-hvlp-spray-system/


Don't do enough anymore to justify the expense but these things are the "cat's meow".
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Last edited by Mike D; 04-11-2015 at 04:59 PM.
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  #21  
Old 04-12-2015, 08:44 AM
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^^^ Come on Mike "want" is more than enough justification for most people these days
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #22  
Old 04-29-2015, 04:11 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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For bumpers: use the flex agent and use urethane.
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2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
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'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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  #23  
Old 06-28-2015, 09:16 PM
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I recently "repaired" my daughter in law's Dodge Caravan front bumper cover.

At first, I took cover off. It had had a very big bang on one side that dented it in a couple of inches and also cracked it vertically where the true metal bumper ended. I used heat gun on it and hit it with mallet. Then more heat and jumped on it (all 210lbs). I got the dent out. But exterior was still kind of rough and the crack needed fixing.

Went on line and found that a complete aftermarket bumper could be bought for C$79 plus tax plus shipping. Then looking on Kijiji (online marketplace), I found someone selling the same thing near to where my son lived. So had him pick it up. C$90 all-in. It was pre-primed in black.

Went to NAPA and got a couple of colour matched (red) spray cans made up. Unfortunately the paint didn't cover well and after about 4 coats, colour was nowhere near a match. I guess I should have used a lighter primer first. Anyway, reinstalled plastic bumper cover is now a different colour than car, but at least it has no dents!

By the way, I have used the plastic paint sold at Home Depot including Krylon. Used it on chairs but also on weathered fiberglass boat parts. It covers well and has lasted for several years now. Only a few colours available though.
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  #24  
Old 07-24-2015, 09:27 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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One thing that isn't good at NAPA is the paint. It is Sherwin, which is lower quality than the other manufacturers.

Their high end stuff works well, but I do not know what they put into the NAPA cans, and they used to be the supplier of choice of Earl Scheib. I doubt that it is that bad, but you do not know what you will get. They are also the main supplier of MAACO.

Krylon (another SW brand) is not appropriate for car parts. I won't bore you with the technical details, but it will not adhere or hold up properly. The chemistry of plastic body parts is very different than fiberglass. Fiberglass is much easier to paint than automotive plastics.

If you want it to look decent, have someone spray it with a gun with proper paint. Forget the spray cans.
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___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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  #25  
Old 08-19-2015, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513 View Post
A heat gun is very useful in the prep work stage. Careful use will give you a extremely smooth surface for a paint platform.
Also interested in hearing how to use the heat gun for a better surface.
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  #26  
Old 09-16-2015, 01:24 PM
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^ Still interested.
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  #27  
Old 09-16-2015, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
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Me too!
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #28  
Old 09-22-2015, 04:45 PM
jmk jmk is offline
Former Paint Maker
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 357
Get this

SATAjet® 3000 K HVLP / SATA.COM

Easiest to use, easiest to clean, easiest to repair, most durable (less rubber parts, more machined surfaces)

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___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
No more boring cars for everyday transport!
Reply With Quote
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