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  #1  
Old 06-28-2014, 03:39 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Paintin' plastic

G'day Folks,

Now I have a plastic fantastic modern car (W201) I guess it is time to make sure I'm repairing scratches in plastic in the best possible way.

Here's what I've been doing so far.

If anyone thinks there's a better way please let me know.

Although I've "done" the bumper I'll be moving on to other stuff in a bit so tips and advice are still needed!

Here's an example of the damage I'm trying to fix



This is a definite "I've just rubbed up against a concrete wall" type of a scratch - it is quite deep and hairy.

I degreased the bumper with engine degreaser - then I wiped off the excess with thinner. This was a bit dodgy I didn't want the bumper to go sticky so I took it really easy...


Here's using a sanding machine to get rid of the worst



This is the other end of the bumper (after a bit of machine sanding) that had the same cement wall treatment



Back to the left hand side again - this is after a bit of block sanding with 240 grit - area has been cleaned with water.

Attached Thumbnails
Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-scratch-damage.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-sanding1.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-sanding2-other-end.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-sanding3.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #2  
Old 06-28-2014, 03:45 PM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Going easy with the filler

I got two types of filler a hole filling one and a smooth filling one.

Applying the hole filling one sparingly



Then after sanding and some fine filler and some more sanding



After the same treatment on the other side

Attached Thumbnails
Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-filler1.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-sanding-after-fine-filler.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-sanding-after-fine-filler-other-end.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 06-28-2014, 03:52 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Paint

Only rattle cans today I'm afraid.

First a plastic primer after wiping down the bumper with Eastwoods pre-paint and masking the bit I don't want painted (will be covered by a black bumper strip)



The colour code of this bumper is 7700 Alto gray

Here it is going on



There's a bit of a colour mismatch





Not too too bad colour wise.

Up close I can see I need to add on a layer of spray primer and finish off the sanding with a finer grade paper

Has anyone got any other tips?

Should I have added the special plastic primer before the filler?
Attached Thumbnails
Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-spraying-special-plastic-primer.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-alto-gray-going-.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-alto-gray-colour-mismatch1.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-front-bumper-alto-gray-colour-mismatch2.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #4  
Old 07-01-2014, 04:38 PM
oldsinner111's Avatar
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I heard a fexible bumper paint it the way to go.If not plasti dip might work
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  #5  
Old 07-02-2014, 02:50 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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I'm not happy with plasti-dip especially from spray cans it gives a very furry / speckled surface that collects dirt. Besides the factory parts are all sprayed with normal car paint - I haven't hear about flexible bumper paint. I'll shop about for it - thanks for the tip.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #6  
Old 07-07-2014, 03:28 PM
jmk jmk is offline
Former Paint Maker
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 346
Saw the Duplicolor can. Avoid that. Bad SW paint, and that is really bad. Avoid that! (also expect mismatches with Duplicolor. I used to call it Unduplicolor.)

Spent the first three years making OEM bumper paint, though I know nothing about bumper refinish. The better refinishes are urethanes, and I think they add a polymer to make the urethane more flexible.

On the OEM side, GM used to develop their base coats to spray over both the bumper and the body, then had different clears for each.

The only thing that I can add of value is to use a real gun, and not a spraycan.
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2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
My '01 Prism is getting very, very old for an everyday car. No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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  #7  
Old 07-08-2014, 12:27 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Well thanks for the warning about Duplicolour - I'll dig out the spray gun this weekend.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2014, 12:01 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Los Angeles area
Posts: 590
Krylon and some others have developed rattle can paint specifically for plastic. Including a clear coat. It's an option. I'm not saying it's professional though.
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  #9  
Old 07-21-2014, 10:38 AM
jmk jmk is offline
Former Paint Maker
 
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Location: Cleveland, OH
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Krylon is also SW, though they tend to fill better stuff in those cans, though I really do not know about the automotive finishes marketed under Krylon. (Just to let you know, the Krylon marketed industrial 1k waterborne coating was way better than the one marketed under the SW brand.)

Yes, the Krylon cans actually make a decent fan pattern, and they are the one I use for home projects, but I would still break out the gun for a car.
__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
My '01 Prism is getting very, very old for an everyday car. No more boring cars for everyday transport!
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  #10  
Old 01-18-2015, 09:11 AM
Stretch's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,453
In a rush now - too cold to spray outside - it is also snowing!

I have resorted to spraying the plastic with spray cans (so the colour match isn't top) under the veranda and then bringing the pieces inside to dry at room temperature...

...oh how I love January in Holland!

Covered in spray filler =>



Then the sanding







I get the feeling I should sand some more of the spray filler away - but hey - gorra crack on and get this fitted to the car

Drips from the spray can happened just the once



I'll be sanding them again then
Attached Thumbnails
Paintin' plastic-w201_018-painting-plastic-trim-panels1.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-painting-plastic-trim-panels2.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-painting-plastic-trim-panels3.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-painting-plastic-trim-panels4.jpg   Paintin' plastic-w201_018-painting-plastic-trim-panels5.jpg  

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 01-18-2015, 09:59 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,453
That'll do pig

Final coat done - ever so slightly patchy but you kind of expect that from paining in the snow with a spray can



It is probably going to be good enough to fit now - I'll see what it looks like when it is on the car.
Attached Thumbnails
Paintin' plastic-w201_018-painting-plastic-trim-panels6.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 02-12-2015, 03:03 PM
jmk jmk is offline
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Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 346
Stretch,

It is really pretty good. These panels were never meant to match. Matching body to bumper is very hard (look closely at a modern car, and you'll see what I mean), and the technology to do a decent job did not really come about until the early '90's (I was actually a part of that leap in technology.).

The only suggestion is that the panels do look mottled. Look at them closely, and you see the variation in color. Try adjusting the air/paint ratio on the gun. Usually a little wetter (more paint, less air) helps this.
__________________
___________________________________________
2010 Toyota matrix
"cash for clunkers" took the van (at 18 yrs, 270,000mi)

'93 500 SEL
A bad addiction. Takes all of my cash.

'01 Chevy Prism
Made in my favorite auto plant--and easy to fix!

'12 Volvo S80 T6
Needed something that wasn't as hard to deal with as my bad addiction

'18 Mazda Miata
My '01 Prism is getting very, very old for an everyday car. No more boring cars for everyday transport!
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 02-13-2015, 01:25 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,453
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmk View Post
Stretch,

It is really pretty good. These panels were never meant to match. Matching body to bumper is very hard (look closely at a modern car, and you'll see what I mean), and the technology to do a decent job did not really come about until the early '90's (I was actually a part of that leap in technology.).

The only suggestion is that the panels do look mottled. Look at them closely, and you see the variation in color. Try adjusting the air/paint ratio on the gun. Usually a little wetter (more paint, less air) helps this.
I think the mottled effect in the pictures is partly due to the flash on my point and shoot camera and the paint (which is metallic). I kept on painting until I couldn't see any colour variations when I tilted the panels at different angles in sunlight. I also checked them under a strip light when it was dark too because sometimes that shows up flaws that you can't see during daytime.

Directly after spraying, when dry, the paint did feel a little powdery to the touch but a buff with a bit of toilet paper smoothed it all out. Would I need more paint (from a gun) to get it to spray without this powdery effect?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #14  
Old 02-13-2015, 09:49 AM
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A heat gun is very useful in the prep work stage. Careful use will give you a extremely smooth surface for a paint platform.
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  #15  
Old 02-13-2015, 11:58 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513 View Post
A heat gun is very useful in the prep work stage. Careful use will give you a extremely smooth surface for a paint platform.
In what way? Tell me more.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
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