Installed a 143A alternator in my W124 (86-95E-class) - with photos - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #1 12-04-2012, 05:34 PM

Sorry meant to reply to this with meaningful measurements but on my way to work today the regulator/alternator quit fully. I drove about 100 miles on pure battery. Lets just say, it was not pleasant at all on the return trip.

Nothing likes to run well at 10V.
The glow plug relay was confused at 9V and decided to join the party
System voltage dropped to 6V and the climate control decided to leave the blower on and not much else worked beyond that.

More fun was the rain and darkness. When I got home I was pleasantly surprised to see my lights still giving off light. At least I was visible on the road still.

I've ordered a new regulator. I'm mildly certain that I damaged the brushes on the existing one when I clocked the alternator. OH well. The 190 is put back into service for a few days.

TnBob · #2 12-04-2012, 09:45 PM

Kinda sounds like your glow plug relay is not timing out.

JamesDean · #3 12-05-2012, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TnBob

Kinda sounds like your glow plug relay is not timing out.

It was working well before the alternator swap and even after it wasn't until battery voltage dropped down to like 8-9V did anything odd start to happen. I pulled into my driveway in the pouring rain with 5.75 volts left in the bat.

EDIT: Found the problem. Rotor crashed into stator due to housing bolts missing! Either I forgot to put two of them in..or didnt tq them all down..or they plain fell off!

Jeremy5848 · #4 03-28-2013, 12:52 PM

I just installed a 150 Amp alternator in my 1995 E300 (W124, OM606NA), replacing a 115 Amp alternator installed last year, replacing the OEM 90 Amp alternator. The 150 Amp unit was one of several offered for sale on eBay in early 2013, apparently scratch-and-dent specials, and originally designed for ML-class Mercedes in the 1999-2002 era.

The 90 Amp alternator should be very similar to the 75 Amp unit that came standard in early 124s and 201s (all engines with serpentine belts). It looks like there's enough room on most engines for the larger alternators. Remember to swap pulleys and upgrade wiring.

I don't have a bunch of extra loads in the car but it's nice to see how well the big alternator charges, even during afterglow. With everything in the car turned on, the system voltage stays above 14 Volts even at idle. The "fear factor" of the big alternator should keep the battery charged even without running the engine!

The new alternator is a tight fit on the 606 engine because of the nearby pipes bringing coolant to the oil pan-mounted heat exchanger. (The same engine in the 1996-97 W210 chassis puts the heat exchanger on the other side.) There is only 1/4 inch space between the pipes and the alternator but it's enough. I added a second cable to handle the extra current, a length of 8-gauge "Monster"-brand audio power cable rescued from the local auto junkyard.

Following is a comparison of the 90A, 115A, and 150A alternators. This may help someone who has yet to upgrade.

Source and part number
1. 90A 1995 E300, original, M-B #009-154-30-02
2. 115A (from a 1994 E420), M-B #010-154-06-02
3. 150A eBay, $75, new, M-B #010-154-83-02, intended for ML-430 and similar models

Weight
1. 90A 12-1/4 lbs
2. 115A 15-1/2 lbs
3. 150A 16-1/4 lbs

Pulleys
1. 90A Diesel 55 mm
2. 115A E420 44mm
3, 150A ML350 50mm
The pulley on diesel I-6 models is ~1/4" taller than on gasoline V-8 models. I don't know if the difference is due to the configuration of the block or the type of ignition.

Regulators (Bosch)
1. 90A 1-197-311-213 (looks old, made in Great Britain)
2. 115A 1-197-311-242 (looks newer, made in India)
3. 150A 1-197-311-213 (India)

Anyone know the difference, if any, between -213 and -242?

Jeremy

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Photos

The 115 and 150 Amp units are similar; the 90 Amp is tiny in comparison. Note that the Diesel pulley is on the 115 Amp alternator in these pictures.

vstech · #5 03-28-2013, 01:06 PM

why change to the larger pulley?

Jeremy5848 · #6 03-28-2013, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

why change to the larger pulley?

The larger pulley is what came on the diesel engine. Why Mercedes did this I do not know; I simply wanted to stick with the pulley that the car came with.

Jeremy

JamesDean · #7 03-28-2013, 02:35 PM

I think the pulley swap is key. Keeping the pulley that was originally on the car seems important. I think I skipped that part on my 190E and I have had a lovely belt chirp ever since

compress ignite · #8 03-28-2013, 05:16 PM

J.D.,

What's that Cooling Hose modification (At the front side of the Surge Tank) you've got there Podna ?

AND,why ?

Thanks

Also, can you provide a Clearer,Zoom shot of the Modification?

(Two things leap to mind: 1.Retrofit of one of the New Ball Bearing equipped Water Cooled Garrett Turbo
2.Some kind of work around for the Damnably Expensive "Tri Pipe" that's just
Down Stream of the Surge tank.)

JamesDean · #9 03-28-2013, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by compress ignite

J.D.,

What's that Cooling Hose modification (At the front side of the Surge Tank) you've got there Podna ?

AND,why ?

Thanks

Also, can you provide a Clearer,Zoom shot of the Modification?

(Two things leap to mind: 1.Retrofit of one of the New Ball Bearing equipped Water Cooled Garrett Turbo
2.Some kind of work around for the Damnably Expensive "Tri Pipe" that's just
Down Stream of the Surge tank.)

That little guy is the manual boost controller for my turbo's wastegate. It was a $10 jobbie I got on eBay.

Wastegate actuator swap for OM602.962?

I can get better pictures if you'd like

compress ignite · #10 03-29-2013, 12:33 AM

Now that you've explained,I can put the Fantasies away.

It is recognizable as one of the MBC units.

___________________________________________________________________

Did you try adjusting the Pre-Load on the P.O. Wastgate Actuator ,first?

gsxr · #11 03-29-2013, 10:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

I think the pulley swap is key. Keeping the pulley that was originally on the car seems important. I think I skipped that part on my 190E and I have had a lovely belt chirp ever since

The pulleys can be different diameter and different offset. While a sliiiight change in diameter may be ok (the belt tensioner can adjust a little bit), any offset different (front to rear) will make the pulley not line up properly. It's best to use the original pulley that came with that specific year/model/engine. I've always swapped on the original pulley to the "new" alternator, and never had a problem.

I've been using 150A alternators on almost all of my cars for years now. Zero problems.

JamesDean · #12 03-29-2013, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxr

The pulleys can be different diameter and different offset. While a sliiiight change in diameter may be ok (the belt tensioner can adjust a little bit), any offset different (front to rear) will make the pulley not line up properly. It's best to use the original pulley that came with that specific year/model/engine. I've always swapped on the original pulley to the "new" alternator, and never had a problem.

I've been using 150A alternators on almost all of my cars for years now. Zero problems.

Right. I think my 190E's alternator pulley has a different offset. You can almost see how its pulling the belt out of line with the rest of the system.

I've been trying to track down a pulley but haven't really tried all that hard so far.

Jeremy5848 · #13 03-30-2013, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

Right. I think my 190E's alternator pulley has a different offset. You can almost see how its pulling the belt out of line with the rest of the system.

I've been trying to track down a pulley but haven't really tried all that hard so far.

The offset will eventually damage the belt; move the job up on your to-do list, please.

Pulleys are listed as separate line items in EPC so if you get desperate you can always order one from Pelican Parts.

For my 1995 E300 (OM606) as for my former 1987 300D Turbo (OM603) the part number is 604-155-00-15, about $40 depending on the source. Junkyard would be best, of course, you can get an entire alternator for that kinda money.

BTW a recent update to EPC now allows part searching with wildcards in the part number. That's gonna come in handy some day.

Jeremy

JamesDean · #14 03-31-2013, 12:10 PM

Thanks for the tip! For some reason I didnt think it would be in the EPC. I didn't actually bother to check.

I'm not driving the 190 at the moment so not a huge hurry but definitely on the top of the 190's to-do list.

I think thats mine:
http://i.imgur.com/uM2iGqi.png

spwiggins · #15 07-05-2013, 12:17 PM

Bless your heart for sharing this; I'm also indebted to another poster for useful information on upgrading stereo. I hope others will post solutions they've found, not just questions.