Brian, I think 120 would release the epoxy,but it would require prying to get it to actually lift or if someone would bump the veneer it might slide out of position. But the contact cement would probably hold up fine and go on thin enough. Contact cement appears to be the original factory choice. I looked at mine today and thats what it appears to be.

Is the urethane glue thin as well? And yeah, you do pay for it as that is one of the reasons why I have never used it. Plus the fact that my methods that I've used for years work just fine--not that I'm closing my mind to new methods!!

Cheers,

Bill

PS--Brian, I did take your suggestion so far as Maytag stoves go and bought the GE!! Thanks....Mama is very happy and you know what that means--everybody's happy.....

Now I wait for it to set. I will report back later on how effective it is. I do not wish to release the clamps before allowing some "cure time".
It is clamped between 4 pieces of steel angle (Dexion slotted steel) and has 2 G and 2 F clamps holding it.
I think that it should be good and flat.

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OK, 6 hours glued and clamped.
I removed the clamps and steel angle - was some adhesion, but tissue paper came apart easily.
I removed the tissue paper from the aluminum backing and the masking tape from the front surface. The "curl" has been removed, the Zebrano is "almost flat", and has stuck well.
From the photo, there is approx 1mm mismatch in alignment. The control knob "cups?" sit in the holes without being forced in.
I will clean the Zebrano and install the trim later tonight.

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Well, the Zebrano trim is refitted. I checked the lamps in the controls to ensure that they light up. Checked the backlighting of the control "cups" and everything is in good order.

Thanks to everyone who posted advice.
The soaking in water, which caused the veneer to lift from the backing, DID help me! It allowed me to apply the Urethane adhesive evenly to the aluminum backing plate. With a partial attachment, I possibly would have had accurate registration of the pieces, but the still attached piece would have been suspect and may have lifted at a later date.

I am confident that this repair is permanent.

Well Done Team.
ps, Looks like I need to clean the other trim pieces too

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__________________
Tony from West Oz.
Fatmobile 3 84 300D 295kkm Silver grey/Blue int. 2 tank WVO - Recipient of TurboDesel engine.
Josephine '82 300D 390kkm White/Palamino int.
Elizabeth '81 280E, sporting a '79 300D engine.
Lucille '87 W124 300D non-turbo 6 cylinder OM603, Pearl Grey with light grey interior


Various parts cars including 280E, 230C & 300D in various states of disassembly.

Great Tony---Let us know if the glue lets go at any point. Looks like a good job to me!! Just goes to show you that you can teach an old dog new tricks.

I will try some of that urethane glue myself one of these days.....

Cheers,

Bill

Bill, that glue is never going to let go.

It will still be holding long after the vehicle is retired.

Can I hold you to that Brian.
If it lets go, will you come up with a replacement piece for me?
Tony

You got it.

As long as I can come down and install it.

I bought a bottle of the Elmers version of that glue and used it to glue the veneer on my glovebox trim. It was detached over 90% of the aluminum backing. The 3M trim adhesive wouldn't hold it so I cleaned it up as much as I could and I wet it a couple of times before applying the polyurethane glue. I clamped it and will look at it tonight.

__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)

I used gorrilla glue on a small table for the kids train set- it does expand alot, but trims easily. The wood will break before the glue releases, That stuff is very strong.

Guess I don't get to go to Australia.

The thin horizontal wood trim piece above the four switches on our '83 300D fell off the other day. Not real surprising as the far right piece was off when I bought it. Not real concerned about putting it back, as 3M yellow death was used on the end piece and it has held for at least 6mos now with no signs of failure. The question I have relates to the middle of the metal backing which is still attached to the dash. There is a sort of "dumbell" shaped cut out in the metal and there is also a similar opening in the dash vinyl material as well. What was the lever that ran thru this area supposed to do, and was it only applied with the three knob heater control system? The wood piece on the '83 of course does not have this hole in it, as there is no lever. Kind of strange that the '83 dash piece still has the hole molded in, but might make conversion back to the manual style controls a lot easier.

__________________
1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

If you decide to glue it, try Gorilla Glue as it works wonders for me. Very tough stuff...

Brian, Youre ON. I hope you can afford the airfare. I will provide accommodation and Beer.
Food?? Naaah - Liquid diet only

Tony

I unclamped and trimmed the glovebox veneer. That urethane reall foams and expands. I dont think this is going to let go anytime soon. Here is the finished product.

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__________________
Michael LaFleur

'05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles
'86 300SDL - 360,000 miles
'85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold)
'89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold)
'85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold)
'98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold)
'75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold)
'83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-(
'61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes
2004 Papillon (Oliver)
2005 Tzitzu (Griffon)
2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba)