Removing tint from rear defrost lines and reapplying new tint - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Chad300tdt · #16 03-11-2009, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iwrock

Bump... I am bored at home on spring break, and am thinking about tackling this project.....

Any suggestions for a noob at this?

1. Buy the best film you can afford. The better the film, the less likely it is to get scratched and kinked during installation.

2. Take your time and THOROUGHLY clean the glass on BOTH sides. Use lint free rags. Start with denatured alcohol and then clean with the tint solution twice on each side.

3. Have someone help you so you reduce the risk of dust and kinks. You should have someone help at least while you're removing the backer so you can be sure to spray everything with the solution while it's peeling off. Otherwise, you'll end up with a static cling magnet that will draw itself toward everything and dust will come running for it.

4. Do any flat windows first so you can get a feel for doing it. The more you tint, the better you get. Curved windows are tough even if you're good.

TIP: Tint on defrost lines makes them work better. Don't worry if the tint doesn't look like it sealed perfectly on the lines. After a few days the lines will look better.

iwrock · #17 03-11-2009, 02:24 PM

Clean with denatured alcohol, and then clean with the tint solution?

Question. How do you get the tint to go up to the edge of the window? Whats the trick there?

Chad300tdt · #18 03-11-2009, 02:40 PM

The denatured alcohol cleans very well. The tint solution makes sure you have no residues, streaks or dust. Nothing is more upsetting than noticing a streak under the tint after it's been applied perfectly otherwise.

Cut the tint to the basic shape of the window plus about an inch all around. Then apply the tint to the outside of the window with the backer still in place and toward the window. You can squeegee the tint to the window and use an x-acto to cut the shape perfectly. Just take your time. You can always remove more tint but you can't put it back.

For tighter corner curves, I'll use a plastic fid or a wooden dowel sharpened to a dull point to burnish the corner edge shape into the tint film. Then you can take the tint to a flat surface like a light table to cut the corner more accurately. Use sharp blades always or you will drag/tear the tint in the cut.