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#1
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Is it possible to pull the vinyl off of the dash?
My dash is cracked and I am currently beautifying my 190 and think it would be nice to replace the dash material with a newer looking vinyl. My initial idea was to just put the new over the old but seeing how the center console and all has the same material and has tight tolerances on the space on the edges of the wood panels, I would need to recover the whole thing, which I am willing to do. My biggest concern is getting the vinyl off without ripping up the foam too much, I would probably have a hard time replacing it.
My other option would be to fill the cracks I have (they aren't that big, but still an eyesore) then paint all of it with a matte black so it would match and look a bit newer/cleaner.
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#2
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If you find a way of doing this then make sure every dash you do is blue - flood the market and make a mint!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#3
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I might try to get a beat up dash to try stuff on, but certainly if I can find a good method I'll have myself a nice product to start a business with
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#4
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I was thinking along the same lines - I reckon one of the those (home) construction expanding foams would do the trick for filling big cracks. Though you need to look out when using that stuff it can push window frames out of position if you use too much of it so you don't want it to snap your dash in two!
Like you suggest the biggest trouble will be removing the old covering. I doubt it will be as easy as this => How To Recover A Dashboard - YouTube (Really boring video - skip through as much as possible to save yourself)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#5
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Quote:
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#6
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I was thinking about trying what that guy in the video is doing, since I do have a parts car I could practice with. I would obviously do it with the dash out of the car though, and I might try it with a palomino colored vinyl so it would match the interior a little better and be less susceptible to sun damage than black might be in the heat of the summer
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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual 1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street 1974 240D, New paint |
#7
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Currently doing it
I had the same cracked dash problem and I decided to try my hand at doing a dash recovery. It's time consuming but you don't need any special tools or skills.
To remove the vinyl, start with removing the fabric stitched to the edge of the dash that contacts the windscreen. It will be obvious once you have the dash out. Since the vinyl is old and cracked, it will splinter off in to small pieces when you try tearing it off the dash surface. It will take a few chunks of foam with it from the dash no matter how careful you are. Once you have the vinyl all ripped out, get one of those home insulation foam cans from home depot etc... It's less than $10. Fill the gaps as well as you can by gently pushing the foam in the cracks. Remember that's thisbproduct is a one time use only since the plastic noozle gets clogged once it dries out. So fill in all the crevices cracks and little pot holes you would have made while pulling the vinyl off. Let it dry and then sand it. This is the hardest part...even minor bubbles show up through the new vinyl I put on. So sand sand sand to perfect smoothness. I tried making a pattern out of thick paper but intended up frustrated due to all the curves. In the end, I just put the vinyl on without any pre-cutting. It seems all right for a first job. Still not done though but it's coming out okay. I used 3m 90 super strength as my adhesive as it safe and cheap and it works very well. Has dec nt reviews on other upholstery related forums. For laying down the vinyls, start from the middle and make your way towards the edges, gluing it down in small patches. For the curves and edges use a light heat gun or better still, a hair dryer as the vinyl can bubble quickly if over heated. So there... Hope that's a good explanation of what doing a recovery entails.
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1987 190D 2.5 Non-Turbo , automatic Currently fixing : diagnosing vacuum functions, , fuel leak at injectors, Dash Re-covering , speaker replacement with aftermarket amp and new wiring, generic keyless entry system . Future projects :, antenna , Transmission modulator pressure adjustment or replacement... more to come... Fixed : Windows, Ground wiring cleaning, random transmission kick-downs. |
#8
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Quote:
Did you investigate / do you think it is worth investigating the use of plastic fillers to improve the surface of the cut off foam?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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I took a few pictures but they were low quality. I was experimenting with it without any idea of how it would turn out so I kind of just went on without documenting it through pictures. I also cut out the speaker holes for a 4*6 speaker size and I am sure I would get flamed for that !!! I will take a few pictures when i get back home tomorrow and post them.
I don't understand what you exactly mean by plastic fillers. I am just an amateur trying his hand at something new. All my research led me to believe that the only 3 consideration for materials for fillers are : 1. Sand-able 2. Remain stable at moderately high temperatures 3. will remain stuck to the surface even when hot or cold. From my experience working with the foam , its not the easiest thing to fill little cracks and bubbles with any precision. If the plastic fillers you were talking about can be applied like paint , they might be a better bet, specially if you have any experience using them before.
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1987 190D 2.5 Non-Turbo , automatic Currently fixing : diagnosing vacuum functions, , fuel leak at injectors, Dash Re-covering , speaker replacement with aftermarket amp and new wiring, generic keyless entry system . Future projects :, antenna , Transmission modulator pressure adjustment or replacement... more to come... Fixed : Windows, Ground wiring cleaning, random transmission kick-downs. |
#10
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There are several products available here that are essentially just like normal car body filler that are optimised for plastics (as now most cars have as much plastic as they do metal these days). They are meant to be more flexible than conventional (metalised?) body fillers. I was kind of thinking that these might be more appropriate...
...if I remember correctly they also have fine filler spray versions too...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#11
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HQ photos
Hey Stretch. Sorry for the long delay. i was on the road and then got busy. Anyways, i took a few pictures showing what the foam looks like underneath the vinyl and how the cover is coming along. I out the pictures in my photobucket account which i am linking at the end of this post.
Since i had already covered most of the dash, i could only take pictures of the few spots that were still kind of naked. you will still get an idea of what to expect though. Notice the small deformities and bumps in the foam where the vinyl didn't come off perfectly clean. Those are the areas you will have to fill up and sand down for a perfectly smooth cover. I also posted a picture of what the insulation foam looks like once its dried out. Since its a very thick paste coming out of a thick nozzle, its impossible to apply accurately . If i were to do this again, I would def. go with a plastic filler that i could apply with a brush for perfect filling. I haven't yet cut out the holes for various panels and fixtures. That is something i am expecting difficulty with because i don't have any prior experience of upholstery or fabric covers. Lets hope it comes out well. abrankhalid's Library | Photobucket
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1987 190D 2.5 Non-Turbo , automatic Currently fixing : diagnosing vacuum functions, , fuel leak at injectors, Dash Re-covering , speaker replacement with aftermarket amp and new wiring, generic keyless entry system . Future projects :, antenna , Transmission modulator pressure adjustment or replacement... more to come... Fixed : Windows, Ground wiring cleaning, random transmission kick-downs. |
#12
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^
That looks really encouraging - thanks for taking the time to make the pictures The underside makes me think of people who repair boats and surf boards. Perhaps people with that kind of experience could give us some tips?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#13
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Wow, I didn't know anyone had actually tried this. My question would be, what vinyl did you use? I have a vague memory of reading that the MB-Tex used for the seats is cloth-backed for strength and therefore thicker and less able to get into tight corners in the way it needs to on the dash. How did the job turn out (if it's done)?
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#14
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Now I bet this kit costs a ton but I'm sure it would make fixing a dash much easier: Leather smart repair on a Mercedes leather seat, HBC system B1 is aprowed for Mercedes - YouTube
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Current: 1975 450SEL, 83 300D, 88 Yugo GVX, 90 300D OM603 swap, 91 F150 4.6 4v swap, 93 190E Sportline LE 3.0L M104 swap, 93 190E Sportline LE Megasquirt, 03 Sprinter, 06 E500 4Matic wagon. |
#15
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Quote:
What are the dashboards made of? - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum Lots of other dash repair options coming to light! In fact light as in UV light should also be a consideration (apparently)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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