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  #1  
Old 10-02-2007, 08:31 PM
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Uncle Possum,

I don't see how adjusting the valves could affect the transmission, unless something like a vacuum line connection was replaced that was leaking or not connected before.

It would be a cold day in hell before I would pay $133 to have my valves adjusted. Usually only 1/2 the valves need adjustment and I have seen one time none had to be adjusted after 25,000 miles.

P E H
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2007, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges View Post
Uncle Possum,

I don't see how adjusting the valves could affect the transmission,
It is easy to get the bowden cable messed up when you re-install the valve cover.
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2007, 11:58 PM
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Palangi,

I thought the Bowden cable only affected the shift points with respect to the accelerator position.

P E H
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  #4  
Old 03-29-2008, 07:25 PM
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-Bump-


has anyone tried crow's foot sockets for this? I plan on doing this soon on a 76 300d, but I have yet to pry open a 617 and see just exactly how much clearance there is for wrenches...
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  #5  
Old 03-29-2008, 07:29 PM
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no go
the 2 wrenches lay together on the flats, their handles are best offset
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  #6  
Old 03-29-2008, 08:17 PM
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Monomer,

I never had much trouble adjusting the valves on 617 engines using ordinary combination wrenches. I Never needed the large wrench to keep the valve from turning.

P E H
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  #7  
Old 05-13-2008, 04:29 PM
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I need valve specs on 617.951

I am trying to do the valve adjustment on my '82 300SD, but the specs are nowhere to be found. No sticker on the core support. I see the specs in the first post, but they are for a slightly different engine. Can somebody help? I am trying to get this done today.

Thanks!

Never mind, I found the specs in the owner's manual.

.10mm intake, .35 mm exhaust.

Last edited by NY300SD; 05-13-2008 at 06:50 PM. Reason: found the info
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  #8  
Old 05-13-2008, 08:15 PM
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NY300SD,

I use go-nogo gages. Intake: .003" go and .005" nogo. Exhaust: .013" go and .015" nogo. I always set them to the high side.

Always check clearance before looseniong the nuts. Some valves might not need adjustment. I had one 617 engine that after 25,000 miles, none of the valves needed adjustment.

P E H
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  #9  
Old 05-13-2008, 09:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P.E.Haiges View Post

I use go-nogo gages. Intake: .003" go and .005" nogo. Exhaust: .013" go and .015" nogo. I always set them to the high side.


P E H
are those numbers right?
a chart i looked at says .0118"=0.3mm, and .0039"=.1mm
if I read this correctly, your exhausts are on the high side, and your intakes are on the low side.

I did mine in mm, which i took as .1mm intake and .3mm exhaust (no turbo)
I also assumed the next size up should be a no-go.

but since I still am running kinda rough, I do wonder if I am wrapping my brain around those clearances correctly...
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  #10  
Old 11-07-2008, 01:52 PM
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Post #1 of this thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NY300SD View Post
I am trying to do the valve adjustment on my '82 300SD, but the specs are nowhere to be found. No sticker on the core support. I see the specs in the first post, but they are for a slightly different engine. Can somebody help? I am trying to get this done today.

Thanks!

Never mind, I found the specs in the owner's manual.

.10mm intake, .35 mm exhaust.
Post #1 of this thread.
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  #11  
Old 03-04-2010, 12:49 PM
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I just adjusted my valves after a extended service interval of 70,000. I know thats bad but I did the previous adjustment at 25,000 int. and they only needed very slight adjustment on 2 valves. I meant to get to it at 35-40K and lost track of it.

Anyway they were all tight, a couple of the exh. very tight!! I probably dodged a bullet here but there seems to be no harm done.

I'm keeping it to 30K from now on. I know its 2X the reccomended interval but at 295K miles total on the car they dont even budge at 15K.

Stephen
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  #12  
Old 05-02-2011, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psdsteve View Post
I just adjusted my valves after a extended service interval of 70,000. Anyway they were all tight, a couple of the exh. very tight!! I probably dodged a bullet here but there seems to be no harm done....Stephen
Exactly why I set them to .006" and .016" respectively....Robert
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2008, 11:02 PM
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JimmyJoe,

Yes those numbers are right for a Turbo 617. They are +- .001" from nominal (.004" intake and .014" exhaust). Looks like the clearance for the non turbo exhaust is .001" less.

The wear pattern is for the clearance to decrease, that's why I set the clearance to the high side.

P E H
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  #14  
Old 11-14-2011, 10:30 PM
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I screwed something up doing my first valve adjustment. It is a 1977 300D with a new engine that has ~40k on it.

I did the adjustments, some were tight, some were loose, and a couple were fine. Put it all back together and the car refused to start easily and promptly died when it did start. Took it back apart, checked the clearances, tried again and same result.

I see now there is some suggestion to keep the valves from turning, though that was not included in the how-to I read prior to doing the job, but that seems to be an issue for older/high mileage engines so I am not sure that applies to me.

What can I do to get the car running again? Do I get to blindly spin valves until the car is happy again? For some reason, I sense that a compression test is in my future.

Edit: After checking the clearances again today, I went to start it and now it is doing this: 1977 300D failure to start - YouTube

Last edited by EvilMoFo; 11-15-2011 at 06:52 PM. Reason: I recorded video
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2011, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvilMoFo View Post
........
I see now there is some suggestion to keep the valves from turning, though that was not included in the how-to I read prior to doing the job, but that seems to be an issue for older/high mileage engines so I am not sure that applies to me.

What can I do to get the car running again? Do I get to blindly spin valves until the car is happy again? For some reason, I sense that a compression test is in my future.

Edit: After checking the clearances again today, I went to start it and now it is doing this: 1977 300D failure to start - YouTube
Rarely on here anymore, but thought I'd reply to help. You want to keep the hexagonal valve spring keeper from rotating, That can rotate the valve and won't allow you to actually "adjust" the valves. Hold that with something, THEN loosen the nut directly on top of that, then loosen the valve cap. Measure between the top of that and the lobe. The lobe should be pointing at the oil feed line when you check and adjust. I've seen people with broken valve guides from people torquing too much to the side of a valve while loosening or tightening. But at least it would start and you'd have an oil burning issue. Most likely something unrelated to the adjustment though. These kind of coincidences happen WAY too often for some reason.

Compression, fuel and air at the correct timing. One of those is missing.

BTW, is it a NA engine? 77 might be. You did adjust for an NA engine if it is, right? But 2k out still shouldn't keep it from running.
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