![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Uncle Possum,
I don't see how adjusting the valves could affect the transmission, unless something like a vacuum line connection was replaced that was leaking or not connected before. It would be a cold day in hell before I would pay $133 to have my valves adjusted. Usually only 1/2 the valves need adjustment and I have seen one time none had to be adjusted after 25,000 miles. P E H |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
It is easy to get the bowden cable messed up when you re-install the valve cover.
__________________
Palangi 2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz 2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser 2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg 2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE 0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Palangi,
I thought the Bowden cable only affected the shift points with respect to the accelerator position. P E H |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
-Bump-
has anyone tried crow's foot sockets for this? I plan on doing this soon on a 76 300d, but I have yet to pry open a 617 and see just exactly how much clearance there is for wrenches...
__________________
-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build) |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
no go
the 2 wrenches lay together on the flats, their handles are best offset
__________________
Bill '82 300SD 195K '84 300SD 199K |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Monomer,
I never had much trouble adjusting the valves on 617 engines using ordinary combination wrenches. I Never needed the large wrench to keep the valve from turning. P E H |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
I need valve specs on 617.951
I am trying to do the valve adjustment on my '82 300SD, but the specs are nowhere to be found. No sticker on the core support. I see the specs in the first post, but they are for a slightly different engine. Can somebody help? I am trying to get this done today.
Thanks! Never mind, I found the specs in the owner's manual. .10mm intake, .35 mm exhaust. Last edited by NY300SD; 05-13-2008 at 06:50 PM. Reason: found the info |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
NY300SD,
I use go-nogo gages. Intake: .003" go and .005" nogo. Exhaust: .013" go and .015" nogo. I always set them to the high side. Always check clearance before looseniong the nuts. Some valves might not need adjustment. I had one 617 engine that after 25,000 miles, none of the valves needed adjustment. P E H |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
a chart i looked at says .0118"=0.3mm, and .0039"=.1mm if I read this correctly, your exhausts are on the high side, and your intakes are on the low side. I did mine in mm, which i took as .1mm intake and .3mm exhaust (no turbo) I also assumed the next size up should be a no-go. but since I still am running kinda rough, I do wonder if I am wrapping my brain around those clearances correctly... ![]()
__________________
Think Alternative Energy! ![]() 300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...) ![]() |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Post #1 of this thread.
Quote:
|
#11
|
|||
|
|||
I just adjusted my valves after a extended service interval of 70,000.
![]() Anyway they were all tight, a couple of the exh. very tight!! I probably dodged a bullet here but there seems to be no harm done. I'm keeping it to 30K from now on. I know its 2X the reccomended interval but at 295K miles total on the car they dont even budge at 15K. Stephen
__________________
85 300D 305K miles WVO(105K so far), Mine 82 300SD 235K miles BIO-D, Wifes 96 F250 SC PSD 4X4 285K MILES BIO-D, Ours 89 BRONCO 182K MILES sold Finally Compression Ignition Only! |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Exactly why I set them to .006" and .016" respectively....Robert
__________________
![]() 1978 300SD 'Phil' - 1,315,853 Miles And Counting - 1, 317,885 as of 12/27/2012 - 1,333,000 as of 05/10/2013, 1,337,850 as of July 15, 2013, 1,339,000 as of August 13, 2013 100,000 miles since June 2005 Overhaul - Sold January 25th, 2014 After 1,344,246 Miles & 20 Years of Ownership ![]() |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
JimmyJoe,
Yes those numbers are right for a Turbo 617. They are +- .001" from nominal (.004" intake and .014" exhaust). Looks like the clearance for the non turbo exhaust is .001" less. The wear pattern is for the clearance to decrease, that's why I set the clearance to the high side. P E H |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I screwed something up doing my first valve adjustment. It is a 1977 300D with a new engine that has ~40k on it.
I did the adjustments, some were tight, some were loose, and a couple were fine. Put it all back together and the car refused to start easily and promptly died when it did start. Took it back apart, checked the clearances, tried again and same result. I see now there is some suggestion to keep the valves from turning, though that was not included in the how-to I read prior to doing the job, but that seems to be an issue for older/high mileage engines so I am not sure that applies to me. What can I do to get the car running again? Do I get to blindly spin valves until the car is happy again? For some reason, I sense that a compression test is in my future. Edit: After checking the clearances again today, I went to start it and now it is doing this: 1977 300D failure to start - YouTube Last edited by EvilMoFo; 11-15-2011 at 06:52 PM. Reason: I recorded video |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Compression, fuel and air at the correct timing. One of those is missing. BTW, is it a NA engine? 77 might be. You did adjust for an NA engine if it is, right? But 2k out still shouldn't keep it from running.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo - 4-speed manual conversion, mid-level resto 1983 300D - parts car 1979 300TD Auto - Parts car. 1985 300D Auto - Wrecked/Parts. ========================= "If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there". Lewis Carrol |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|