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  #121  
Old 02-18-2007, 05:13 PM
henrydupont
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would be great if the valve clearance was in this post. seems to be hard to find information.

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  #122  
Old 02-18-2007, 05:20 PM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henrydupont View Post
would be great if the valve clearance was in this post. seems to be hard to find information.
Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI.
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  #123  
Old 02-18-2007, 10:56 PM
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Henry,

Intake: .004 inch
Exhaust: .014 inch

I use .003 and .013 inch go feeler gages and .005 and .015 nogo feeler gages and I always set the valve clearances to the high side because the wear pattern is to decrease the clearance.

P E H
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  #124  
Old 03-14-2007, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
A hand drawn check box diagram to document each valve, intake and exhaust position, will save much confusion and effort.

For those of you who want a pre-made cheat sheet for valve adjustments, I've taken the liberty of making one.

Click Here for the cheat sheet.


PS: OM616 one will be made in the next few days. Just need intake/exhaust layout.
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  #125  
Old 03-14-2007, 05:48 AM
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Thanks, waiting for the OM616 chart.
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  #126  
Old 03-14-2007, 10:34 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Philly PA
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well,

Call me stupid but the other day i try the valve adjustment with the 2 14mm wrench and i could not prevent the lower nut (the 30mm one) to turn without the locking nut in any of the valves.
a lot of people insist that you just need the 2 14mm wrench but i also think you need the holding 30mm wrench to prevent the spring from turning.
I am missing something here?
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  #127  
Old 04-07-2007, 05:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmak124 View Post
For those of you who want a pre-made cheat sheet for valve adjustments, I've taken the liberty of making one.

Click Here for the cheat sheet.
http://image57.webshots.com/757/8/18/51/2323818510041539376YypQBv_fs.jpg


PS: OM616 one will be made in the next few days. Just need intake/exhaust layout.
This link does not appear to work-any way to post the orginal here?
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Last edited by whunter; 04-07-2007 at 07:36 PM.
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  #128  
Old 09-23-2007, 02:39 PM
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New Question

I have read this entire thread and I think I am ready to adjust my valves, but I still have one question. the Dieselgiant instructions say to only do it when the engine is cold, but there are specs for cold and warm. I was hoping to do it this afternoon, but I drove my car about two hours ago. Will I have to wait now for another day?
Thanks
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  #129  
Old 09-23-2007, 08:41 PM
ForcedInduction
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It's best to do it stone cold but doing it warm won't hurt, you just need to add a bit to your clearances. Better loose than tight.
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  #130  
Old 09-27-2007, 10:31 PM
Las Vegas Benz Driver
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Chickened out...

After reading all the posts, looking at all the pictures, and studying my valve cover, I finally chickened out and decided to pay a Mercedes shop to do it. Local shop quoted me $133 including valve cover gasket. As this is a once a year expense at most, and since I do all other routine maintenance myself, I thought this was the best alternative for me.

I have had this car since June, and it shakes like crazy until it gets warm. As far as I know, the valves haven't been adjusted in a very long time. Other than the shaking, the car starts with no problem, has relatively good acceleration, doesn't smoke excessively, doesn't burn oil, and gets about 24 mpg.

Taking in tomorrow to have it done. Can't wait to see the results.
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  #131  
Old 09-27-2007, 10:48 PM
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injectors next ?
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  #132  
Old 09-29-2007, 01:31 AM
Las Vegas Benz Driver
 
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Dang!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Possum View Post
After reading all the posts, looking at all the pictures, and studying my valve cover, I finally chickened out and decided to pay a Mercedes shop to do it. Local shop quoted me $133 including valve cover gasket. As this is a once a year expense at most, and since I do all other routine maintenance myself, I thought this was the best alternative for me.

I have had this car since June, and it shakes like crazy until it gets warm. As far as I know, the valves haven't been adjusted in a very long time. Other than the shaking, the car starts with no problem, has relatively good acceleration, doesn't smoke excessively, doesn't burn oil, and gets about 24 mpg.

Taking in tomorrow to have it done. Can't wait to see the results.
Can't believe how much better my car runs now after the valve adjustment. Accelerates much better, and no more shaking. The most amazing thing is the transmission shifts much smoother now. I used to have about a 10 second pause when I put into drive, but now no hesitation? Also, it doesn't jerk between gears.

Also glad I took it to a professional, he found the driver's side ball joint almost completely gone. Certainly worth the trip to the shop.
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  #133  
Old 09-29-2007, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Possum View Post
Can't believe how much better my car runs now after the valve adjustment. Accelerates much better, and no more shaking. The most amazing thing is the transmission shifts much smoother now. I used to have about a 10 second pause when I put into drive, but now no hesitation? Also, it doesn't jerk between gears.

Also glad I took it to a professional, he found the driver's side ball joint almost completely gone. Certainly worth the trip to the shop.
i was also amazed at the results... the car runs like new now
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  #134  
Old 09-29-2007, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Possum View Post
Can't believe how much better my car runs now after the valve adjustment. Accelerates much better, and no more shaking. The most amazing thing is the transmission shifts much smoother now. I used to have about a 10 second pause when I put into drive, but now no hesitation? Also, it doesn't jerk between gears.

Also glad I took it to a professional, he found the driver's side ball joint almost completely gone. Certainly worth the trip to the shop.
how much in the end??? $$$$$???
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  #135  
Old 09-30-2007, 02:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1985300d View Post
how much in the end??? $$$$$???
The valve adjustment was $133 which included a new valve cover gasket. The ball joint was $241. I thought the valve job was good deal, especially with the dramatic improvement in performance. The ball joint caught me by surprise, after looking at how near it was to failing, and what it took to replace it, I was glad to pay the shop, even without knowing if this was a good price or not. Most importantly, had I not taken into a qualified MB shop, I would have never found it until it failed, causing more damage.

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