Valve adjustment OM615, 616, 617 FYI. - Page 7 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#91 09-02-2005, 05:57 AM

Here is a great diagram to help the DIY crowd with valve adjustments.

meltedpanda · #92 09-02-2005, 09:34 AM

can anyone supply a list of the special tools needed to tackle this job. I am thinking of doing this myself next time. I have a 84 300SD

#93 09-02-2005, 06:42 PM

I finished my pre-trip maintenance. A few of the intakes were tight, some exhaust loose and 3 valves were OK. She idles PERFECT now but I lost a huge chunk of low end power. She won't even peel out on gravel anymore!

I didn't mess with the pump, boost enrichment still kicks in, exhaust sounds fine, vacuum lines are in place, and no oil leaks.

Mid and high end are perfect, low end just went out the window.

#94 09-02-2005, 07:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 82-300td

I finished my pre-trip maintenance. A few of the intakes were tight, some exhaust loose and 3 valves were OK. She idles PERFECT now but I lost a huge chunk of low end power. She won't even peel out on gravel anymore!

I didn't mess with the pump, boost enrichment still kicks in, exhaust sounds fine, vacuum lines are in place, and no oil leaks.

Mid and high end are perfect, low end just went out the window.

Exaust valves were loose?
Perhaps this adjustment made you loose your power. Did you have the right gauge on them, etc.?

Hows it start?

#95 09-03-2005, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brandon314159

Exaust valves were loose?
Perhaps this adjustment made you loose your power. Did you have the right gauge on them, etc.?

Hows it start?

I know, it sounds backwards. But that's how it was. Exhaust were loose and intakes were tight. I used I=0.10mm E=0.35mm with the lobes up-and-to-the-right as the FSM states.

I found my problem. I drove for a while and thought the pedal felt "soft" and was not hitting the full pedal stop. Sure enough, I inspected the linkage and the rubber chunk on the firewall is split. I'll have to use my trusty zip-tie fix to hold until I can get a new one.

#96 09-03-2005, 12:06 AM

That explains it

whunter · #97 01-09-2006, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

Here is a great diagram to help the DIY crowd with valve adjustments.

Text for those who want it.

Valve 1: (Exhaust) Should be .35 mm

Valve 2: (Intake) Should be .15mm

Valve 3: (Intake) Should be .15 mm

Valve 4: (Exhaust) Should be .35 mm

Valve 5: (Exhaust) Should be .35 mm

Valve 6: (Intake) Should be .15 mm

Valve 7: (Intake) Should be .15 mm

Valve 8: (Exhaust) Should be .35 mm

Valve 9: (Exhaust) Should be .35 mm

Valve 10: (Intake) Should be .15 mm

Gurkha · #98 01-10-2006, 01:56 AM

I did a cold valve adjust yesterday and set my inlet to .10 and exhaust to .30, after driving for about 15000 miles I decided to check the valve clearance, all my exhaust were up to specs needing no adjustment but all the inlets were tight, not over-tight but needed adjustment. The vehicle is mostly driven for long distance either in summers or winters here.After I put back everything in place, started it up, and on a very cold -4c day, engine started right up in 1/4 crank.I have adjusted various OM616 and 617 in turbo and non turbo form, never have I ever come up with one that had a tight exhaust and loose inlet, yours is truly an exception. Did you place the cam correctly when you checked the clearance?

#99 01-16-2006, 01:22 PM

Just to storta revive and old thread...

I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT using the power steering pully nut to turn the engine over. My 300SD never had this done to it in its life (I could tighten the nut more still) and the pully was STILL hard to get off when I had to rebuilt my power steering pump.

There is a place to grab onto the actual pully itself (not the nut) behind the nut (I believe) so give it a try...

...just avoid using that nut to turn the engine over...you'll regret it someday

TheDon · #**100** 01-16-2006, 01:41 PM

geee... what should i use to turn it over if i cant get to the crank or bump it over.. vice grips on that area you suggest?

1983/300CD · #**101** 01-16-2006, 02:47 PM

Well, you CAN jump into the car and hit the key for half a second. Just make sure you have plenty of rags so you don't mess everything up. It's harder because you have to jump out to see where you're at, but it can be done with patience.

Rags for your hands and steering wheel, that is...

#**102** 01-16-2006, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

geee... what should i use to turn it over if i cant get to the crank or bump it over.. vice grips on that area you suggest?

Check the pic...I'd use a big adjustable wrench (crecent wrench) or something similar.

willy2004 · #**103** 01-16-2006, 05:27 PM

Well, you CAN jump into the car and hit the key for half a second....

About 3/10 of a second, I timed it.

dieseldiehard · #**104** 01-16-2006, 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1983/300CD

Well, you CAN jump into the car and hit the key for half a second. Just make sure you have plenty of rags so you don't mess everything up. It's harder because you have to jump out to see where you're at, but it can be done with patience.

Rags for your hands and steering wheel, that is...

Your supposed to use the terminal block to apply power to the starter solenoid. In using the key switch you stand the possibility of the engine starting because the vac will be removed from the stop valve on the IP!
A short hunk of wire (14 gA is fine) about 6 in long will do the job, heck I've even used a pair of longnose pliers. You know, the three terminal place that the factory shows you connect their fancy pushbutton thingie? On the fenderwell near the battery on the 300D

#**105** 01-16-2006, 08:43 PM

I have the fancy pushbutton thing (snap on brand) however I use it rarely. The starter doesn't give me quite perfect what I want so I break out my 27mm socket and breaker bar

For safety...use a ratchet in place of the breaker bar...if the engine decides to somehow miraciously start...the ratchet will simply slip