My question is this. My 1984 190 D 2.2 na is running pretty dang nice. We just got back from jaunt to the coast and averaged around 35 mpg, ran smooth started with no hassles and even as we're starting to freeze at night it's starting just fine. I'm hoping to get the block heater relaced next weekend. I have no clue when the valves were last adjusted on this car...I haven't adjusted them before and my understanding is that the previous owner never adjusted them within in the last 10 years/150,000 miles. I'm not concerned about the mechanical aspect of adjusting them so...just git r done while I'm in there gettin the block heater replaced before the snow flies? Thanks guys,

Jim

The 190 models use hydraulic valve lifters, no adjusting is possible.

Thank you sir. I figure I'm gonna have plenty to learn about this car as the years go by. Much appreciated.

Jim

Uncle Possum,

I don't see how adjusting the valves could affect the transmission, unless something like a vacuum line connection was replaced that was leaking or not connected before.

It would be a cold day in hell before I would pay $133 to have my valves adjusted. Usually only 1/2 the valves need adjustment and I have seen one time none had to be adjusted after 25,000 miles.

P E H

It is easy to get the bowden cable messed up when you re-install the valve cover.

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Palangi

2004 C240 Wagon 203.261 Baby Benz
2008 ML320 CDI Highway Cruiser
2006 Toyota Prius, Saving the Planet @ 48 mpg
2000 F-150, Destroying the Planet @ 20 mpg



TRUMP .......... WHITEHOUSE
HILLARY .........JAILHOUSE
BERNIE .......... NUTHOUSE
0BAMA .......... OUTHOUSE

Palangi,

I thought the Bowden cable only affected the shift points with respect to the accelerator position.

P E H

-Bump-


has anyone tried crow's foot sockets for this? I plan on doing this soon on a 76 300d, but I have yet to pry open a 617 and see just exactly how much clearance there is for wrenches...

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-1983 VW Rabbit LS Diesel (5speed, VNT/Giles build)

no go
the 2 wrenches lay together on the flats, their handles are best offset

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Bill

'82 300SD 195K
'84 300SD 199K

Monomer,

I never had much trouble adjusting the valves on 617 engines using ordinary combination wrenches. I Never needed the large wrench to keep the valve from turning.

P E H

I am trying to do the valve adjustment on my '82 300SD, but the specs are nowhere to be found. No sticker on the core support. I see the specs in the first post, but they are for a slightly different engine. Can somebody help? I am trying to get this done today.

Thanks!

Never mind, I found the specs in the owner's manual.

.10mm intake, .35 mm exhaust.

NY300SD,

I use go-nogo gages. Intake: .003" go and .005" nogo. Exhaust: .013" go and .015" nogo. I always set them to the high side.

Always check clearance before looseniong the nuts. Some valves might not need adjustment. I had one 617 engine that after 25,000 miles, none of the valves needed adjustment.

P E H

are those numbers right?
a chart i looked at says .0118"=0.3mm, and .0039"=.1mm
if I read this correctly, your exhausts are on the high side, and your intakes are on the low side.

I did mine in mm, which i took as .1mm intake and .3mm exhaust (no turbo)
I also assumed the next size up should be a no-go.

but since I still am running kinda rough, I do wonder if I am wrapping my brain around those clearances correctly...

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

JimmyJoe,

Yes those numbers are right for a Turbo 617. They are +- .001" from nominal (.004" intake and .014" exhaust). Looks like the clearance for the non turbo exhaust is .001" less.

The wear pattern is for the clearance to decrease, that's why I set the clearance to the high side.

P E H

for order of adjustment, if you are so inclined and do not wish to spend all your time turning the engine.

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Post #1 of this thread.