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  #31  
Old 12-13-2004, 11:45 AM
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Well I think they are avoiding the phone for a reason........so they can say , well you should have asked questions before you bought it........and if they don't answer the phone they can't say anything they can get hung on.

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  #32  
Old 12-13-2004, 12:25 PM
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Talked to the selller who was driving the SDL and talking on his cell phone. Nice guy, polite, but did pitch his 123 he is selling a strong. Here are the questions and his answers - let you make your own conclusion.

Do you have all the books and records?
No, about 3 years worth and some repair invoices

You said the car is rust free - I get dissapointed when this is said and there is rust on the car
THere is rust on the driver side rear under the windsheild

What are these high performance modifications?
I have a Hungarian mechanic that has tweaked the injection. He also lowered the front end - he has a special european adjustment he has done to the pump.
Did you Dyno this car
No
Did you drive it 140MPH
yes
Where
We have some "trade secret streets" up here that we can do this
What will this car do 0 -60?
I don't know exactly but less than 10 sec.
Did you do a compression test on the cyl?
yes
What was the reading
Don't remember but can provide
Does everything work on the car
Yes
Windows?
Yes
ACC
Yes
Airbag in steering wheel
Yes
ABS
errh The light comes on now and then - it's just electrical and I will fix
Antenna up and down
Yes
Spare/Jack
Yes
I don't understand what you are doing with the seatcovers
The driver side sheepskin is junk - a new sheepskin will be provided
What does the leather look like underneath
It's decent
What do you mean by decent
THere in good shape

Are there cracks, tears, holes?
No, just a little wear.

Sound like a nice car
People are amazed because the car gets quieter from 80 -110 mph

You state it's mint - there seems to be some cracks on the shifter console
Yeah that's normal - I wouldn't replace it.

Thanks for your time
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Last edited by TX76513; 12-13-2004 at 12:36 PM.
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  #33  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:24 PM
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There are just too many nice cars out there to take a chance.

Scott
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1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
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  #34  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:29 PM
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That guy is so full of s%&t, maybe I will get an old Polish mechanic to tweak mine. Lowered front ha ok yeah 140 ok sure I bet. Their is no way a 603 could pull to 140.

Figure it this way 5k is about all a 603 can do what speed would an SDL be going in 4th gear at 5k rpm? (I am math challanged )
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  #35  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
That guy is so full of s%&t, maybe I will get an old Polish mechanic to tweak mine. Lowered front ha ok yeah 140 ok sure I bet. Their is no way a 603 could pull to 140.

Figure it this way 5k is about all a 603 can do what speed would an SDL be going in 4th gear at 5k rpm? (I am math challanged )
Couldn't get him to make me understand the lowering the front end - aerodynamics? I don't know how fast mine or any SDL will go but would feel pretty bad doing (trying) this to my car with 244K on the clock.
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  #36  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:37 PM
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Well I know H&R makes a lowering kit for the W126, it isn't cheap and the car will ride real stiff. I think it lowers the car 1in or 1.5in. It shouldn't increase top speed though.

Just shy of 120 is about all a strong 300SDL is good for. I have had mine up to 110 and she still had a little left. Other than a little wind noise she drove better than at 60.
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  #37  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TX76513
Couldn't get him to make me understand the lowering the front end - aerodynamics? I don't know how fast mine or any SDL will go but would feel pretty bad doing (trying) this to my car with 244K on the clock.
OH, don't you know, lowering a car makes it fast, My honda is lowered 2.5 inches so it must be able to go 180 mph, and my saturn is dropped about the same so it must be able to go about 160mph.........

Bwaaaaaahahahahahaha............
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1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
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"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #38  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:47 PM
boneheaddoctor's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
Well I know H&R makes a lowering kit for the W126, it isn't cheap and the car will ride real stiff. I think it lowers the car 1in or 1.5in. It shouldn't increase top speed though.

Just shy of 120 is about all a strong 300SDL is good for. I have had mine up to 110 and she still had a little left. Other than a little wind noise she drove better than at 60.
I have the H&R kit on my Saturn......I second what you said, it is DAMNED stiff.
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Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #39  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boneheaddoctor
OH, don't you know, lowering a car makes it fast, My honda is lowered 2.5 inches so it must be able to go 180 mph, and my saturn is dropped about the same so it must be able to go about 160mph.........

Bwaaaaaahahahahahaha............

I've got all of you beat. I installed a flux capaciter. Once I hit 88 mph...

Scott
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
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1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
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1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
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  #40  
Old 12-13-2004, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott98
I've got all of you beat. I installed a flux capaciter. Once I hit 88 mph...

Scott
dang.......no matter what I do , someone one ups me.........well the wife won't let me do the flux capacitor thing anyway........................
__________________
Proud owner of ....
1971 280SE W108
1979 300SD W116
1983 300D W123
1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper
1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel
1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified)
---------------------
Section 609 MVAC Certified
---------------------
"He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche
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  #41  
Old 12-13-2004, 03:29 PM
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I've been reading this post with interest and it is entertain at least. I agree that this guy is full of it. I have worked on all types of high performance cars up to and including NASCAR Winston Cup stock cars. (Before the days of NEXTEL). In order to get the 603 to push that car to 140 he would either have to increase the RPM's or steepen the gears. In order to increase the RPMS with enough HP to push that heavy car to those speeds. There would have to be extensive airflow, fuel pressure and balance modifications to the engine that , frankly, cannot be done for the amount of money he has quoted. As for lowering the front end, well that does help if other aerodynamic mods are done and those obviously have not been. That car has a huge frontal area and combined with the weight, it would take in the neighborhood of 400 hp plus to get that heavy SOB to 140 plus. Unless of course it was going down a fairly long downhill grade.

As far as suspensions getting stiffer as you lower them. It's usually because the springs are shorter. Think of them as a straight rod that has been spun into a coil as that is exactly what they are. When you shorten the rod, there is less mechanical advantage to flex it, therefore the stiffer ride. When we would build racing cars, there were some instances where you would want a stiffer ride. I.E. a high banked superspeedway. But on road courses or tracks with low banking, we would use springs with thinner coils for a softer ride. This helps the tires stay in better contact with the surface thereby improving the handling.
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  #42  
Old 12-13-2004, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy
...what speed would an SDL be going in 4th gear at 5k rpm? (I am math challanged )
Turning the engine at 5000 rpm with a 2.88:1 differential and P205 65R15 tires (25.49" diameter), the theoretical speed (with no slippage...but jeez, at that rpm the converter might as well be a locker!!!) would be 131.65 mph. If you could go against the governor (5400 rpm), you'd be making 142.1 mph.

I can't remember the actual ratio of the SDL so I guessed the diffy ratio at 2:88. I have all this in an Excel spreadsheet so changing the numbers is NBD if I'm wrong.
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Last edited by R Leo; 12-13-2004 at 04:04 PM.
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  #43  
Old 12-13-2004, 04:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R Leo
Turning the engine at 5000 rpm with a 2.88:1 differential and P205 65R15 tires (25.49" diameter), the theoretical speed would be 131.65 mph. If you could go against the governor (5400 rpm), you'd be making 142.1 mph.

I can't remember the actual ratio of the SDL so I guessed the diffy ratio at 2:88. I have all this in an Excel spreadsheet so changing the numbers is NBD if I'm wrong.
I think you are close - for some reason it comes to mind that it's 2.85 BUT I can't remember where I came across that number
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  #44  
Old 12-13-2004, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hawk180
I have worked on all types of high performance cars up to and including NASCAR Winston Cup stock cars. (Before the days of NEXTEL). In order to get the 603 to push that car to 140 he would either have to increase the RPM's or steepen the gears. In order to increase the RPMS with enough HP to push that heavy car to those speeds. There would have to be extensive airflow, fuel pressure and balance modifications to the engine that , frankly, cannot be done for the amount of money he has quoted. As for lowering the front end, well that does help if other aerodynamic mods are done and those obviously have not been. That car has a huge frontal area and combined with the weight, it would take in the neighborhood of 400 hp plus to get that heavy SOB to 140 plus. Unless of course it was going down a fairly long downhill grade.
Increasing the RPMS doesn't help when using stock injection pump, 5.5 mm elements just cannot deliver enough fuel in order to gain more than 180 hp. That ammount of power isn't enough to make 140 mph, you would need around 230-240 hp to make that.

To gain the needed power you need to modify the IP with bigger elements, and then raise RPMS. You can get the OM603 to deliver full power up to 6000 RPMS and little more, but it needs little special modifications to the IP.

Ofcourse with those modifications, intercooler is necessary, and so is better exhaust.
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  #45  
Old 12-13-2004, 04:24 PM
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Well, about ten seconds would be about the range that Mauri said the most you could tweak out of these engines, stock. Without pump modifications. BUT, I don't think 140 mph is feasable even with 180 hp pushing a Cd of 0.37.

He MIGHT be able to squinch out close to 130 mph. After a LONG fight through the last 10 mph. Hit a small grade, or a wind bluster, and that speed drops quickly.

BTW, the diffy is a 2.88. At least that's what the casing reads underneath my car after a little degreasing.

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