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#1
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Differential Fill Plug Rounded Out
Well, I have been doing some routine maintenance on the wagon. Today I was going to drain and fill the diff. Of course, prior to draining the diff I was going to make sure the fill plug came out. The PO rounded it out. I have the proper 14mm hex wrench, but it just slips when any pressure is applied. Is there anything that can be used to remove the plug? I do NOT want to drill it out. Thanx in advance for all of your help again.....
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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles..... Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner 2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles... 1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/ Anthracite Velour 260,512 miles (Eva) 1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex 4 Speed Manual 84,213 miles ???? Haus Frau 2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling) Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit |
#2
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Clean the hole really well... like with Brillo pad and then alcohol ... also do that to the shortest bolt you can find which has the largest head which will fit into that hole.
Then mix up a small amount of the strongest epoxy you can find... JBWeld, etc... and place the bolt head in there and leave at least 24 hours without allowing it to move...... . depending on temperature... Then take a couple of nuts which fit on that bolt and screw them onto it...and use them with a breaker bar to loosen it. If you need to put your car jack into the hole on the right rear of the car...and attach a comealong to the breaker bar... this gives you a lot of force but in a controlled way.... not like an air wrench... I have posted pictures of that arrangement in the archives.. |
#3
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Leather's directions will work very well. If the plug is available as an orderable item, try taking the whole pumpkin cover off, do leather's thing or try to wedge some pieces of metal in place to hold the hex thing tight. Then use an ELECTRIC impact wrench on it, not a monster air wrench. Now, I did the electric part on mine that was virtually impossible to remove. I didn't have the rounded out problem. It took about 30~45 seconds of impact wrench hammering to break it loose but all was well after it came out. I found being able to rest the pumpkin cover on a pice of cardboard on the ground gave me much better control to avoid any damage. Good Luck.
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#4
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Heck , I was hoping no one else had posted... because my instructions will only work if that bolt is a left hand thread... not worth trying to find that....
I would just weld the nut onto the bolt.. but I try not to assume the availability of welding equipment in my answers... If you use two nuts on the bolt and put JBWeld on those threads... and tighten the nuts AGAINST each other before they start to set up that might work... |
#5
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With enough JB weld, anything is possible.
An air impact wrench usually has torque settings so you can 'tone it down' for more gentle jobs. You can also run them at a little lower than normal pressure, like 80 or 70psi to soften them up even further. Just as a hint. leathermang's method should work fine, but if you are disassembling things anyway, taking the cover off and putting it on the ground would probably make the job easier, just because you've got more room to get a good angle on it. peace, sam
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"That f***in' biodiesel is makin' me hungry." 1982 300TD Astral Silver w/ 250k (BIO BNZ) 2001 Aprilia SR50 Corsa Red w/ 5.5k (>100 MPG) |
#6
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I don't know.. if you take it off how are you going to hold it ? This is not a really thick piece of metal... not much way to Evenly hold it without warping it.. I think doing it on the 3rd member if possible is the way to go...
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#7
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On one of my cars the fill plug had evidence of someone who had used a cold chisel tangent to outer rim to spin it off. If your going to replace it you could try a couple of light raps with a hammer to see if it frees it up. Given that the hex is rounded it may not have been put back very tightly. Back in the 1970's I use to go to a junk yard. There was this old veteran there who swore he could disassemble anything with a well placed chisel and hammer!!
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Bill Reimels Now down to one: 1972 300SE 3.5 W109 (Euro delivery) |
#8
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WOW, can't see the forest for the trees
How can I be so stupid?!?!?!?! I can remove cover and then remove the fill plug. I become so engrossed in a project that I lose objectivity. As per usual one of the regulars ALWAYS comes through for me. Without this forum and it's wealth of knowledgable members I would be lost and poor. And probrably walking. Thanx to all.
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1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles..... Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner 2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles... 1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/ Anthracite Velour 260,512 miles (Eva) 1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex 4 Speed Manual 84,213 miles ???? Haus Frau 2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling) Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit |
#9
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"How can I be so stupid?!?!?!?! I can remove cover and then remove the fill plug."
I would try it in place first... once you get it off... if it is really stuck... then you have a problem holding it and applying large amounts of force without bending it... |
#10
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I'd be tempted to just replace the whole cover, fill plug and all. There are plenty of W123s in my local U-pull-it yards.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#11
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When trying to remove the block heater plug (my car didn't come with one..I added it) the bolt/welding/breaker bar meathod got us a lot of twisty bolts
Just be careful...you are working with serious torque UNDER a car |
#12
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oh god yes. I put a block heater on a 80 240D that never had one...
After the chisel, it took three guys and an 8ft bar extension under the car to bust it loose. Plugs can be REAL stubborn sometimes.
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1980 500SE/AMG Euro 1981 500SEL Euro 1982 380SEL 1983 300TD 1983 500SEC/AMG Euro 1984 500SEC 1984 300TD Euro 1986 190E 2.3-16 1986 190E 2.3 1987 300D 1997 C36 AMG 2003 C320T 4matic past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350 |
#13
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Quote:
Gave me a chance to degrease that side of the block too while I was in there. But it did cost me a set gaskets............
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Proud owner of .... 1971 280SE W108 1979 300SD W116 1983 300D W123 1975 Ironhead Sportster chopper 1987 GMC 3/4 ton 4X4 Diesel 1989 Honda Civic (Heavily modified) --------------------- Section 609 MVAC Certified --------------------- "He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. And if you gaze for long into an abyss, the abyss gazes also into you." - Friedrich Nietzsche |
#14
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Plan of Attack
Cleaned fill plug, will use JB Weld and attach a bolt with 2 nuts, one as a jam nut. If that fails, then I will try the chisel. If that fails, will replace diff cover. Thanx for your help.
__________________
1984 300D Turbo Sedan (Hilda) 272,115 miles..... Anthracite Gray/Palamino Leather, I am 3rd owner 2001 Dodge Stratus (Silver) (wifes) 55814 miles... 1982 280TE Wagon Astral Silver Metallic/ Anthracite Velour 260,512 miles (Eva) 1969 230 Sedan Olive Green/Black MBTex 4 Speed Manual 84,213 miles ???? Haus Frau 2004 Boreem Ninja Pocket Bike Highly Modified 49cc (Ling Ling) Einigkeit und Recht und Freiheit |
#15
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Quote:
Ended up having to use the oxy-acetelyne to heat up the whole mess to even get it to break loose. I have video of the SD with no exhaust manifolds driving it out to the wash rack |
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