Radiator. Gauge, or block? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

83mercedes · #31 04-12-2005, 06:43 AM

Thanks. I will try using one of the IR thermometers if I can get my hands on one (would this be at a hardware store or an auto store?).

Also will report back if the temperature happens to drop to correct level as air leaves the system.

I may try the thermostat test, but the chances of two different thermostats both being equally bad is almost nil.

As far as the radiator, yes, I know it didn't go bad in such a short time, but it can't hurt to put in a new one because my old one does drain some particulate matter each time I drain/flush the system, so I'd like to do it preventatively before it gets plugged up or plugs up the block.

pberku · #32 04-12-2005, 09:14 AM

I am assuming that you had your heater set to full heat when you were trying to purge your system of air. If not than air, could still be trapped in your heating system.

Also, if you set your heater controls to full heat, do you get hot air out of the ducts? When your engine is at operating temperature, and depending on your ambient temperature at the time, the air temperature coming out of the ducts should be somewhere between 100F - 125F (approximately).

Phil

RockinWagin · #33 04-12-2005, 12:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I highly recommend you perform the following procedure. If it works, it will save you from purchasing a new radiator:

Pull the radiator out of the vehicle. I know, it's a PITA, but, it's worth it.

Hold the radiator up to the sun. Look through the fins. See all that crap?

You mission, should you decide to accept it, is to remove every bit of that crap which is blocking airflow in a big way.

Use compressed air, a chemical cleaner that foams, and a whole lot of patience and repetitive cleansings from the rear side of the radiator to attempt to flush as much of that crap out as you can. It takes a good two hours and it won't be perfect, but, you'll drop the temperatures at least 5°C. and maybe even 10°C. if the radiator is quite bad.

Unfortunately, there is no tool that I could find that can be stuck into the fins to clean them. I think even pipe cleaners are a problem, but, I haven't tried it.

If this does not solve the issue, then the radiator is partially plugged internally and a new radiator is probably going to be required to significantly drop the temps.

I went through all of this crap last year when I started running the A/C. I had an infrared thermometer and used that 1st to determine whether the guage was reading correctly. It was close enough. I did the standard internal flushing with no results. I finally did pull the radiator and did the look through test and it was very clogged. I used my power washer and cleaned the radiator fins in about 15 minutes. I also cleaned the fins on the a/c condensor, but you need to be very careful here as the fins are thinner and can bend under power washer pressure. Problem fixed.

Brian Carlton · #34 04-12-2005, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockinWagin

I went through all of this crap last year when I started running the A/C. I had an infrared thermometer and used that 1st to determine whether the guage was reading correctly. It was close enough. I did the standard internal flushing with no results. I finally did pull the radiator and did the look through test and it was very clogged. I used my power washer and cleaned the radiator fins in about 15 minutes. I also cleaned the fins on the a/c condensor, but you need to be very careful here as the fins are thinner and can bend under power washer pressure. Problem fixed.

Those fins on the radiator are quite thin and delicate. How did you operate the power washer to prevent bending them?

I presume that you placed the nozzle directly against the fins for maximum effect. The velocity of the water in this situation would be of a concern. Please provide more details of the pressure in the machine and the technique utilized.

RockinWagin · #35 04-12-2005, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Those fins on the radiator are quite thin and delicate. How did you operate the power washer to prevent bending them?

I presume that you placed the nozzle directly against the fins for maximum effect. The velocity of the water in this situation would be of a concern. Please provide more details of the pressure in the machine and the technique utilized.

This is an electric power washer (Wal-Mart special--1300 psi IIRC) and I used an adjustable nozzle with a fan shaped output. I sprayed directly up against the radiator fins with no damage and no problem. I sprayed de-greaser on the fins before I power washed. I used the same washer for the A/C condenser but held the nozzle about a foot from the fins. Again, no damage and no problem.

Before I knew better, I bent the fins on an a/c condenser on a jeep with a higher pressure washer one time.

Brian Carlton · #36 04-12-2005, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RockinWagin

This is an electric power washer (Wal-Mart special--1300 psi IIRC) and I used an adjustable nozzle with a fan shaped output. I sprayed directly up against the radiator fins with no damage and no problem. I sprayed de-greaser on the fins before I power washed. I used the same washer for the A/C condenser but held the nozzle about a foot from the fins. Again, no damage and no problem.

Before I knew better, I bent the fins on an a/c condenser on a jeep with a higher pressure washer one time.

Excellent. I new there was something special about that setup. The 1300 psi is low enough that it won't do any damage.

Did you check it by holding up to the sun when finished? How clean does it get?

billrei · #37 04-12-2005, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

If this does not solve the issue, then the radiator is partially plugged internally and a new radiator is probably going to be required to significantly drop the temps.

An attempt to dissolve internal deposits can be made with citric acid. It will dissolve the white calcium deposits. Another post dealt with this topic today. A good radiator shop can also "rod" the tubes to mechancially remove heavy deposits then solder the top tank back in place. That's the nice thing about not having one of those plastic radiators Mercedes beancounters are so fond of you can do some repair....

I find that the power washers at a DIY Car Wash works good for cleaning the external fins.

83mercedes · #38 04-12-2005, 10:58 PM

I did not run the heat when I purged the system! It hasn't been blowing hot air for a long time when the system was running too cold, and now it must be because there is no water in the pipes! I didn't bother running it because I didn't think it was working.

I'll go out and try the purge now with the heat on and maybe it will have some effect. (fingers crossed....PLEASE FIX IT!)

tangofox007 · #39 04-12-2005, 11:10 PM

"No heat" is symptomatic of air in the system. It should start blowing hot air when it "burps."

83mercedes · #40 04-13-2005, 07:24 AM

Last night when I did the purge with heat on, heat began coming out of the vents at a certain point, and the temp dropped to 85-90C, however the coolant level in the reservoir did not drop.

Today I attempted again and heat did not come out until I was almost finished, then stopped coming out when I switched to a different blowing pattern on the climate control panel. Again, the coolant reservoir level did not drop.

I'm almost positive there is air in the system, but it does not seem to want to come out. I suppose this is what's causing my wacky heating. I don't really want to do a complete flush and refill, at least not until I have my radiator since that requires a flush/refill anyways.

83mercedes · #41 04-13-2005, 07:27 AM

The coolant in the reservoir is not hot at all when I open it, and the top radiator hose is spongy and I can hear air moving in the system when I squeeze the hose, but cannot get it out.

pberku · #42 04-13-2005, 07:56 AM

Go back and re-read my comments in post #16. The air WILL come out on its own without you doing anything special, exept driving with the heater on at Max heat.

Be patient.

Phil

Brian Carlton · #43 04-13-2005, 09:34 AM

Did you take it out for a drive?

If not, you need to do this if you expect the water pump to force the air back to the tank. Even after one drive, the process is not complete. It sometimes takes several hundred miles to fully get all the air out. The expansion tank level will always be a tad low, every time you check it. Then, finally, it will stabilize.

83mercedes · #44 04-13-2005, 10:30 PM

The temp. may be dropping slightly as the air leaves the system. I'll keep my fingers crossed, I think running the heat helps. However, the heat is working strangely.

When the car is running, it sometimes blow warm air when on the control for blowing out the 4 vents, but mostly cold air, engine temp does not drop.

When I turn the car off to just electrical, no engine, it blows very hot air at me and does drop the engine temp, unlike when the car is running. Why is this?

Also, when I press the control labeled "EC" it blows very hot air at me whether I'm driving or not. What does the "EC" control mean? Is it not using the engine heat to generate that heat, because it doesn't drop my engine temp?

Do I have a problem with my blower motor or is this just no water in the pipes? It perplexes me that the engine-dependent heat would only work with the engine off.

pberku · #45 04-13-2005, 10:41 PM

You may have a climate control problem that may, or may not be related to the trapped air in the cooling system. For now at least, (until you get the trapped air issue resolved), run the heat in Defrost mode.

Defrost mode bypasses most of the automatic control system settings. It runs the fan at full speed, and generates FULL heat, regardless of the temperature setting of your climate control. It also activates the AC System.

By the way, EC stands for Economy mode. It prevents the AC from coming on.

Phil

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