Can you elaborate on this?

I'm in the same boat as this cat who made this thread, had to fix the charging system first with a dual groove pulley and new belts proir. I need only to order still a Fan Switch yet, the High Pressure switch, and lil line from Dryer/Acc to Condensor (total system failure on my vehicle)

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Dmorrison ( in your area ) posted a thread about cleaning his... it was very restricted as to flow... due to things like normal oil in the air combined with dog hairs... etc...

Should be in this group...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=338740

After replacing the evaporator and then the intake grills, wiper panel area, on the wagon. I know of no way to get to the evaporator to "clean it" other than removing the heater box and disassembling it. I wish there was a way of doing it. But alas I just don't see any other way. Forcing air in reverse may help but I doubt it.

The evaporator
evaporator out of the 300TD

The vent grill area, no access to the evaporator
300TD replaced the vent girlls and cleaned the wiper motor area


DO NOT buy a rebuilt R4 compressor. they have a terrible lifespan. More than one tech has advised me on this.

Removing the compressor. Make sure you keep track of the 3 bolts and SPACERS to the compressor. They are all different and can be screwed up.
Make sure you have the CORRECT size seals for the compressor to manifold hose.

I found the after market manifold hoses to be crap. Consider a Mercedes hose, it is expensive though.

Stay with R-12. I did the conversion to R134a and have been happy with it. BUT, I installed a parallel flow condenser. The cheapest way to do the job is to leave it OEM. I used synthetic oil, good for both R134a and R12, so I am considering removing the R134a and installing R12. Texas sort of calls for it when it gets to 100+. Above the mason-Dixon line the R134a conversion would be fine.

Get your 609 license. It is not that hard. And by doing it you will learn about the AC system. Then you will be ready to tackle the Ac job, otherwise there is a lot of theory we will have to teach you for the job.

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1970 220D, owned 1980-1990
1980 240D, owned 1990-1992
1982 300TD, owned 1992-1993
1986 300SDL, owned 1993-2004
1999 E300, owned 1999-2003
1982 300TD, 213,880mi, owned since Nov 18, 1991- Aug 4, 2010 SOLD
1988 560SL, 100,000mi, owned since 1995
1965 Mustang Fastback Mileage Unknown(My sons)
1983 240D, 176,000mi (My daughers) owned since 2004
2007 Honda Accord EX-L I4 auto, the new daily driver
1985 300D 264,000mi Son's new daily driver.(sold)
2008 Hyundai Tiberon. Daughters new car

Whats a good compressor/place to get one? How much do they usually cost?

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Wow, that evap core was full of garbage!

My compressor is a low mile take off from a member's car here that was totaled. I'd shop around on ebay, there are some silly places that sell new R4s for CHEAP. I've seen a few well under $180... new mind you.

I too am in process of getting the CFC license. EPAtest.com is the site I believe.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Tom at www.*************** checked all his records for me on compressor returns......none for their rebuilt Behr R4 $149 and one return for their new 4-Seasons R4 $229.

I know MB dealerships sell/use rebuilt Behrs.

www.Ackits.com has a new Delphi R4 $199, but I do not like the way the pulley/ clutch looks (too thin)

http://www.ackits.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AMA&Product_Code=15-20206

I am not sure which way to go.

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1993 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 205K (ex wife's)
1984 Mercedes Benz 300SD 320K (SOLD)
2004 Mercedes Benz C240 75K
1995 GMC Sierra 2WD 5.7L 188K
1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD 239K (SOLD)
1987 BMW 325i 220K (SOLD FOR SALVAGE)

609 Certification

Can you explain this procedure for us?

Danny

__________________
1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

(\__/)
(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

Just lately Jbaj007 explained this .... try his name and expansion or txvalve for search criteria...
it just involves pulling the working mechanism from the inside I think...I have not done it yet... he has done all sorts of messing with ac hardware....
If you can't find it in a search hollar back at me...

should be in these....

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=338954

jbaj007 :


I just disassembled the spare TVX I've been holding onto for a "project". Unscrewing the round brass plug you can pull out a spring tensioned ball valve actuated by a two piece rod going thru the length of the TVX from the aerobic capsule/capillary tube to the ball valve under the plug.

The first piece of rod moves when the capsule/capillary gas expands, affected by the temperature of the gas EXITING the
TVX.

The first piece pushes the second length of rod thru an orifice that only grossly controlls the amount of refrigerant ENTERING the TVX. This part is not controlling much at all; it's just mostly a passageway.

However, the end of this rod (under the brass screw plug) pushes on the ball valve which is under spring tension. The amount of tension is determined by the amount the round plug is screwed or unscrewed into the TVX body. The amount that this ball is lifted off it's seat is what really controls the amount of refrigerant ENTERING the evaporator and it is controlled by the temperature of the refrigerant gas EXITING the evaporator (acting on the capsule which acts on rod # 1, which acts on rod #2, which acts on the ball, which chills the capsule, which shortens the rod #1, which.........oh, what the heck). A nice simple feed-back.

Bottom line is the plug seems to be able to control it to conform to most any regular refrigerant gas.

IF YOU ADJUST THE PLUG TO ALLOW MORE REFRIGERANT INTO THE EVAPORATOR YOU RUN THE VERY REAL RISK OF "SLUGGING" AND RUINING YOUR COMPRESSOR SINCE LIQUID REFRIGERANT CAN GET TO IT (low/no superheat). FWIW

Now I'm lost, when should I flush my system out?

My plan was to rebuild the system in my garage then take it up the street to have it flushed there as well as evac'd...

I don't have the means to flush the system out here at my pad, but I have enough to build valve bodies and port heads.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

You take something like the Reciever/Dryer off the car.... that leaves that hose loose there... then you flush from the passenger compartment to there... so as to minimize the smelling and spilling of the flush agent inside the car...
then you blow nitrogen or whatever is the best stuff you have for that to get the flush out... then you cap the ends of the hose .. plastic bags, rubber bands, or legit plugs which fit those ends... then when you are prepared to do the evacuation you put it all together and start up the vacuum pump.

I know I can purchase flush no problem, but where can I get that Flush Gun?

I have a vertical compressor down in Houston where my Ford is at perhaps it's time to invest in one for up here. Any clue as to what I'd pay for a flush? I have to think what's better from a rational stand point.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

CARLISLE AUTO AIR
6411 San Pedro Ave
San Antonio, TX USA
Phone: (210) 377-3377
Fax: (210) 341-2229
info@carlisleautoair.com
www.caawparts.com

Ask for John...

Flush gun and Flush are shippable....
$65
Part number TCC6546

They appologized for not having a ' tool' page at present...

Excellent, does that flush gun run off compressed air?

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Yes, It does...