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  #16  
Old 08-19-2005, 12:25 PM
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Location: central Texas
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Sounds like you have a WINNER....
Now to the studying and fixing of the little things... lots of reading involved...and some practice figuring out how to seperate the wheat from the chaff posted in some threads...
Sometimes people will know that some answer was posted in a thread which was using a particular word... you can ask for those kind of suggestions when heading into the archives .. could save a lot of reading... but the more reading you do there the better anyway.... so it is never a complete waste of time... we tend to have some other subject discussed in most threads... but it makes for fun typing...

You need to attempt to acquire factory shop manuals for your car.. lots of discussion about this and how to find them..

The thing is this... as an overview of the purpose or capability of any forum compared to the factory literature.... SAFETY..... this is one of the main things which is very evident when one has the manuals and reads the descriptions of how to do any particular fix on the forum... first that there are usually THREE versions of the PART which might be on your ENGINE... and you can not get all the SAFETY WARNINGS which jump off the page from the factory literature...

So the correct procedure is to have the shop manual and try to follow it...then ask the forum for clarification ... partly because these were not native American Speakers who wrote the manuals... and they used some different names for parts than we do anyway...
You also need to check with something like Alldata.com.... and look at your year and model ... copy down the list of TSB's and recalls issued for it...then try to ascertain whether they have been applied to your car... when the factory found something wrong and found a fix for it that is how they notified the dealers... the titles are available free at that site and will give you a heads up ... then you can either subscribe or find the TSB by other means...

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  #17  
Old 08-19-2005, 01:09 PM
meltedpanda's Avatar
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Location: Central Ky
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Here is some info on your buttons (if they are the same as mine)
Sound like your compressor is toast, do you see any oil film around it.
Other things to check for
radiator neck soundness, clean air filter and open differentail vent.
Sound like a great project, I am jealous
How is the interior? leather or MB Tex?


Pushbutton far right(off): switches off air supply to the interior of the car. The blower does not operate, and there is no heating or cooling.

Pushbutton 2nd from right (economy): in this position, the air-conditioning compressor is off. Fresh air enters the car and is heated, if necessary, to maintain= dialed- in temperature. If heating is needed, warm air flows from the footwell and side nozzles with a little going to the defroster nozzles.

Foe ventilation, air is routed to the center and side instrument panel nozzles. The minimum in-car temperature depends on outside temperature and solar heat gain. (You know about this if you own a black car!) At low= outside temperatures, the blower and air supply remain off until the engine coolant temperature reaches about 100=F8F. If blower AUTOMATIC is selected, the= blower operates in speeds 3 to 5. You can conserve fuel by using the EC button for heating and ventilation as much as possible.

Pushbutton middle (normal): in this position, the air-conditioning compressor is= on if outside temperatures are above 35=F8F. Fresh air enters the car and is= heated or cooled as necessary to maintain dialed-in temperature. For cooling, no= air flows from the footwell nozzles. Air is routed to the center and side instrument panel nozzles. For heating, warm air flows from the footwell and side nozzles with a little going to the defroster nozzles.

It is possible for these ranges to overlap, providing air from the center nozzles and the legroom nozzles at the same time. If the system moves to cooling, the fresh/recirculating air flap closes down to about 80% recirculating air.

Pushbutton 2nd from left (bi-level): For heating, air is routed to the windshield, to= the side vents and to the footwell nozzles. For cooling, air is routed to the center instrument panel nozzles also. The refrigerant compressor operates if outside temperatures above 35=F8F.

Pushbutton far left (defrost): The blower operates in highest speed (6) only.= Maximum heated air is routed to the windshield for defrosting--the temperature dial has no effect. The refrigerant compressor operates if outside temperatures= are above 35
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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #18  
Old 08-19-2005, 01:49 PM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Thanks for the push button info, I guess it makes a little more sense now. I hope to have some time this weekend to start looking at things in depth and decide exactly where I should start on things.
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  #19  
Old 08-19-2005, 01:56 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: central Texas
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Fluids in general

and the Radiator coolant condition is more important on these cars than on some cars...
Because unless kept correct it can eat out the heater core... which is a real pain to have to replace... and unnecessary with correct maintenance...
Plenty in the archives about specifics of this...
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  #20  
Old 08-20-2005, 11:18 PM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Looked things over a bit yesterday, and discovered a few things. Fuel return lines are definitly bad. And the Ac had stopped working because the belt had broken.
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  #21  
Old 08-23-2005, 02:31 PM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Replaced the AC belt, and it looks like the compressor still works. Can any one tell me what the wheel between the rear window control buttons is?
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  #22  
Old 08-23-2005, 02:43 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitmeister420
Replaced the AC belt, and it looks like the compressor still works. Can any one tell me what the wheel between the rear window control buttons is?
The small wheel on the lower panel (between the seats) is the fader (front to rear) for the radio. These are often disconnected if you have an after-market radio.
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  #23  
Old 08-23-2005, 03:27 PM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Thanks Craig, that would explain why it didn't seem to do anything.

I took the car into my mechanic, good guy with lots of experience, to have the squeeking in the front end checked out. He just called me with the bad news. Two ball joints, a tie rod, and lots of rubber parts rotted out. Parts, labor and front end alignment $880. I told him to go ahead, I need this car to be safe at least. it can piss oil all it wants, as long as it is safe. Good news was that the shocks, springs and rear end were all good. He was also impressed with the cars lack of rust.

So does any one know how hard it is to change out transmission fluid? Does it have a filter also?

I saw a thread before where some one had listed 5 things to check/maintain on these cars, but now I can't find it. Any one know what I'm talking about?
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  #24  
Old 08-23-2005, 09:00 PM
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Sarasota, Fl.
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First... Congrats on your purchase....Soon, you will fully enjoy it!

As far as the front end goes... Replace all 3 tie rod assemblies....you might as well, they are not that expensive (for reference, look up the parts above on fastlane). Don't be too surprised that the ball joints are gone... it is a natural occurance...(apparently the boots from TRW going rotten is normal too - But I digress).

Once you have your A/C working, you are going to think that your dial is screwy... Well...Yes, and No... There is a little square looking venthole like thing in the middle of your dash... it is supposed to suck in air and tell the climate control what the cabin temp is. (more like what the temp is on a hot black vynil surface - But, I digress again). Trouble with this intake of sorts, is that the tube that is connected to it gradually dissappears over the years and needs to be replaced - the stuff you insulate copper pipes with works well for this!

Another notorious item would be the Aircleaner mount(s) and/or bracket.

If you are still puzzled as to why there are two levers for the seat adjustment...One moves the seat strictly forward, the other moves the seat forward, but on an incline, thereby raising the elevation of the driver. Which brings to mind that odds are the left front of the drivers seat is probably sagging/weakly sprung. - There are posts for this with several remedies.

Oh.. btw... on the first pic... the hood ornament is tilted too far back
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  #25  
Old 08-24-2005, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitmeister420
I saw a thread before where some one had listed 5 things to check/maintain on these cars, but now I can't find it. Any one know what I'm talking about?
My five
1) valve adj
2) oil/filter - air filter
3) fuel filter (2)
4) tranny service
5) run injector cleaner periodically

SOunds like a good price on the front end.
Tranny is pretty straight forward but can be real messy. DOnt forgget about the filter and rotating torque converter to drain as much fluid as possible
I took the plunge and had mine purged with some unit that cleaned all the fluid out including torque converter and lines. Pricey, but I did not know PO history and felt it was a good move. Also MB's trannys are EXTREMELY sensitive to fluid level and dirt! So follow the book!
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2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #26  
Old 08-24-2005, 09:49 AM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Thanks Panda for the input, but that was not the five item I recall. The poster was talking about some kind of adjustment to the throttle linkage, also about some sort of screen or valve with a screen in the transmission. He said that when this screen gets plugged it can burst and take the tranny down with it. Does this ring a bell?

Thanks also to everone else for the input, it's nice to know that I'll never have a free Saturday again.
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  #27  
Old 08-24-2005, 01:54 PM
meltedpanda's Avatar
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probably Alda adjustment
I only know of one main filter in the tranny and it is changed with the service
There is a blow by vent on the differential that should be cleaned out from time to time
There is also a banjo bolt on the intake manifold that should be cleaned from time to time (I think you have this on non turbos)
I still say my top five should be on your list, which now may be top 10 ( )
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Ron
2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth
2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond
Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING !
99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD
62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD
72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD
16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR
19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels
14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green
84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD
71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD
73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace
81 380 SL - Rest in Peace
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  #28  
Old 08-26-2005, 10:08 AM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Well, I got the beast back yesterday, and I can't say how happy I am. What a difference! no squeeks on bumps, turns or stops. It feels like real progress has been made and the final price came in under quote .
Next in line, new windshield seal, replace fuel return lines, transmission fluid & filter, oil & filter, pool noodles, repair power antenna, etc etc etc.....
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  #29  
Old 12-03-2009, 03:34 PM
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Location: South East WI, near Madison
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Well It's been over 4 years! And almost 30000 miles. I've had to do a number of things along the way. So far I've..

Changed Flex Disks and carrier bearing
repaired B2 piston
noodled the seats
repaired the exhaust
replaced fuel return lines on injectors
fixed the air cleaner mount
Sandblasted & repainted the battery tray
fixed the radiator overflow nipple
replaced the front hood release
New rubber for fuel filler neck
Drained and flushed brake lines/new fluid
replaced front brake pads
drained flushed & replaced coolant (MB & Zerex)

I have new windows seals but have not installed them yet.
And this next spring I'll be looking at replacing the rear axles
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  #30  
Old 12-03-2009, 04:55 PM
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That sounds like a pretty short list for 4 years with a 26 year old car.

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