Dash Removal Comments - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

engatwork · #16 12-11-2005, 08:02 PM

This job was alot more than just the dash removal because the center console has to come out along with the evap housing to replace the evaporator.

Austin I am assuming you are not getting any air out of your center vents. This is an easy fix without removing the dash. You have to remove the glovebox and use a bright light and shine in there towards the center vent area. You will see a rubber boot behind the center vents. You will find one of two things. Either the linkage that links the vacuum pod to the center vent is broken or the vacuum pod is no good. If the pin that connects the linkage together is gone (I have seen this on more than one occasion) you can put a tie wrap through the hole of the pod linkage and the damper door linkage. If the pod is bad you can remove the pin, open the damper door all the way open and "jam" the rod from the pod on top of the door to keep it in the open position.

J. R. B. · #17 12-11-2005, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ara T.

Anyone's dash start rattling to hell once removed and replaced? That's what id be wary of.

Nothing should rattle if you take your time and make sure each fastener is tightened and all hoses and wires put back where they belong. The only agravation I suffered was the center vent rubber. I finally took a piece of 1/8" welding rod and bent a short hook on it. The end of the hook I filed and honed very smooth so it wouldn't cut the rubber. I poked the hook through the vent pods and teased the rubber over the ends.

dmorrison · #18 12-11-2005, 08:18 PM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/80341-order-installing-evap-box-w123-post526705.html#post526705

Here are the step by step instructions for installing the dash to a 82 300TD. Removal is basically in the reverse order.
Take lots of digital pictures for the instalation. It really helps. I took about 100 pictures for the entire AC rebuild, and wish I took 200.
I have not had any squeeks since reinstalling the dash.
This Christmas break my daughter and I will replace her the evaporator in her 83 240D.

Dave

engatwork · #19 12-11-2005, 08:25 PM

Quote:

Take lots of digital pictures for the instalation.

Yea - I forgot to mention that. Photos are invaluable during re-assembly.

I have not had any problems with any squeaks and rattles. Maybe you are thinking about a Ford

.

I got my inspiration for these jobs from Dave

.

rwthomas1 · #20 12-11-2005, 11:29 PM

I pulled the dash in the 84 300D to do the CC vacuum solenoids. Yes, it is a fairly difficult job but not impossible. I found the hardest part was actually removing the dash and then reinstalling it past the steering wheel. I suppose you could make the task much easier by pulling the wheel. I have to pull the dash again to do the heater core. What fun. RT

JimmyL · #21 12-11-2005, 11:50 PM

Here is a link to my foray into dash removal. It is not as bad as you hear. Much harder to get back in for sure. The thing I think that gives it a bad rep is getting linked to evaporator removal. THAT is what is really hard, and dash removal is of course the first part of that job.
Take pics, and label parts. Good advice from folks above. I have to do mine again probably, because I have another vac leak in the AC system.
I will offer some good advice here, and please consider this: Have vacuum pod diaphragms for each pod prior to dash removal, and do them ALL when you have the dash out. I even used 2 from my parts car, but I had a couple of days off at the time, and just decided to plow ahead.....

Dash removal ---- Not That Bad

Butterwagon · #22 12-13-2005, 06:47 PM

So what else should I do when I've got the dash out? I've never been in there before.

1. Heater Core
2. Evaporator
3.

Stevo · #23 12-13-2005, 08:13 PM

I found removing the steering wheel helps and is usually not difficult, use thread lock putting it back. Like was mentioned above, getting the dash back in seemed the most difficult part. that is "tucking" the forward "flap" down next to the windshield, is a bear. I also remove the "post "trim, still that sucker doesn't wanta fit

Biodiesel300TD · #24 12-13-2005, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Butterwagon

So what else should I do when I've got the dash out? I've never been in there before.

1. Heater Core
2. Evaporator
3.

This is pretty minor, but, I had one of those blue vacuum check valves for the dood locks under the dash in my 300TD. It was up near the windshield on the driver side. I changed it out cause getting out would be absolutely impossible with the dash in.

Diesel Giant · #25 12-13-2005, 10:21 PM

I will do a pictorial of the dash removal process and other neat hidden items as I get the time.

Any special requests?

Treeman · #26 02-25-2006, 03:30 PM

[QUOTE=Biodiesel300TD] Getting all the vent ducts re-connected was a bit of a puzzle.
How do you get the tricky vents re attached?
Thanks in advance
Tree

dmorrison · #27 02-25-2006, 04:17 PM

Not sure which part your talking about.Soooo

Corrugated tubes from the heater box to the vent assembly. Then are just push on. There are small nubs that hold the tube in place.

Rubber boot from heater box to center vents. This requires a little dexterity. I use a Small screw driver to move the edge onto the heater box as well as the vent assemblies. Place as much on the box/vent as possible holding it with your fingers as you roll it on. Some silicon spray helps it slide on.

The actual vent assembly as mounted on the dash. IF you have broken any of the small opening tabs on the black vent assembly. It will not hold on the dash. Breaking the tabs is very common when taking them off due to the age of the vent. To mount the assembly just press it on . The tabs will click in place and lock, there is a waffer spring washer that applies tension . As I said, if you have broken a tab, then you have to buy a new one. The dealer has them. BUT the center 240D vents are no longer made. So you either have to find a used one or use a 300D closeable one in place of the non closing 240D vent. Also the 240D center vent rubber duct is no longer made. However the 300D rubber duct does have reinforcement where the closing shaft goes thru the rubber. So it can be cut for the 240D.

Dave

kafer65 · #28 11-17-2006, 04:41 PM

This should be very helpful:
1. Removinig the steering wheel is very simple but often the nut is on there real tight. I've found that you don't need locktite to put it back on. Even if you apply minimal torque to the nut when you put it back on it becames very tight if you have to pull it back off again.
2. Its much easier to remove the dash if you rotate it to get the gauge cluster opening to turn down toward the steering wheel shaft. The back part of the dash needs to come up following the windshield. It helps to protect the criuse control stick and frees the yoke shaped part of the dash that goes around the steering shaft.
3. PLEASE! Don't forget to remove the vent tubes. The mounts that snap the vents to the front chrome rings will break tabs. One thing to mention additionally is that you have to line up the tabs to get the vents to snap in even if they still have all of there tabs. You can run you fingers just inside the vent edge to feel a step that protrudes inward 1/8 of an inch. That is where there is a tab.
4. To replace the long dry rotted foam tube that connects the temp sensor in the middle of the dash to the passenger side rubber hose that goes to the fan housing you only need about 6-8 inches for the replacement. Its hard to tell how much you need till you have the dash in and then your upside down. Its easy to trim what you need though.
5. Getting the mounting screws started that are next to the speaker starting is tough. Not putting your hands thru the speakers is almost inevitable if they are left in.
6. Go ahead and clean the dozen brown grounding wires right behind the cluster. That will cut down on electrical gremins.

Stevo · #29 11-17-2006, 07:57 PM

Taking off the steering wheel defiantly helps. I didn't know about the "no need for lok tite", thing, I'll proly never get the wheel back off

I've done a couple dash swaps and I had the most trouble getting the new (exchange) dash back in, namely tucking that "flap" down next to the windshield. I found a 2" plastic scrapper with the corners rounded, a good tool for that. It would sure help too have smaller hands

rwthomas1 · #30 11-17-2006, 08:43 PM

Check this out it you want to see what you are in for:
Here is something you never want to see....
My car spent 3-4 months torn apart as I was busy sailing all summer, didn't have time to put it back together. Got it reassembled last month? Wasn't too bad really. No rattles, no issues. Dash work is not really difficult, just time consuming. RT