EGR blocking plate kit #3 - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Brian Carlton · #46 01-06-2006, 07:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jarod

ok, my car dosn't have egr, thanks brian. so i don't have to worry, its already been disabled (not there in the first place!!

)

Excellent. No need to remove something that isn't there.

Help is what we do here.

84300DT · #47 01-06-2006, 09:29 PM

brian, thanks your e-mail.. been slightly busy .. but will reply over weekend.

Jarod · #48 01-07-2006, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Excellent. No need to remove something that isn't there.

Help is what we do here.

yep. i saw some photos about plugged intakes, and egr being to fault, and i thought i gotta get rid of that stuff... and promptly got stuck! i'm not too aquainted with mercedes yet, but i'm learning more and more. it amazes me how much all the members here know!!

Brian Carlton · #49 01-07-2006, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jarod

..........it amazes me how much all the members here know!!

Most of us don't know much..........but all of us know a lot!!

Brian Carlton · #50 01-11-2006, 09:24 PM

ttt...

braverichard · #51 01-14-2006, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

No sweat.

Each of those two lines from the black box runs to a "T", correct?

Take out each of those two lines and throw them away.

You now have (2) "T's" with an open hole on one side.

Remove one of the "T's" completely and throw it away.

Now, you have two hard plastic lines that had gone into each side of the "T".

Conncect the two hard plastic lines with a short section of vacuum hose.

Remove second "T", throw it away, and repeat the connection with the short piece of vacuum hose.

You are done.

OK Brian, I'm happy and confused at the same time.

I followed your steps at first, but they weren't clear enough so I was mislead. I started experiencing downshift "clunks" whenever I slowed down and stopped the car. So I drove the car back home, dug up your original post on this and followed those steps as well. Results?

Firstly, I am proud to announce that out of at least 12 different W126s I have driven, none shifts as smooth as my car does now. Shifts can't be felt at all anymore. You can only tell by looking at the tach and listening to the engine. Why? Not that I'm complaining, but did I heal some vacuum leaks by doing this? Why the smooth shifts all of a sudden?

Secondly, I see from your pic that the second line that comes from the firewall (from towards the fusebox) into the hood (the black line) is connected to the vacuum modulator. I left mine disconnected but the car shifts well under all driving situations. I did 2 miles in the city and 5 miles on the highway with no issues. So should I even bother connecting that black line to the vacuum modulator?

braverichard · #52 01-14-2006, 07:22 PM

Picture of my hood now

Brian Carlton · #53 01-14-2006, 11:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by braverichard

Firstly, I am proud to announce that out of at least 12 different W126s I have driven, none shifts as smooth as my car does now. Shifts can't be felt at all anymore. You can only tell by looking at the tach and listening to the engine. Why? Not that I'm complaining, but did I heal some vacuum leaks by doing this? Why the smooth shifts all of a sudden?

Secondly, I see from your pic that the second line that comes from the firewall (from towards the fusebox) into the hood (the black line) is connected to the vacuum modulator. I left mine disconnected but the car shifts well under all driving situations. I did 2 miles in the city and 5 miles on the highway with no issues. So should I even bother connecting that black line to the vacuum modulator?

The smooth shifts are the result of the elimination of any leaks at the 3-2 valves on the top of the valve cover. Any leakage up there will drop the vacuum to the VCV slightly and might have resulted in reduced transmission modulator vacuum depending on the original vacuum level to the VCV. In my specific case, the vacuum to the VCV was 12". So, any leaks at the 3-2 valves would not have reduced the vacuum below 12" therefore any leaks at the 3-2 valves would not have been noticeable.

The second line that is connected to the VCV (not the modulator......it's on the side of the transmission........at the very end of the hard vacuum line from under the hood) is the vent. It's connected to the side of the VCV and it goes into the cabin. This provides a source of "clean" air for the VCV and it is less likely to be taking on soot from under the hood. You probably should reconnect it..........you won't affect the performance of the vehicle at all.

Now, you may not like the SD the way that it is..........the shifts may be too "soft". I didn't like mine and decided to firm them up a bit. If that's the case, you need a Mityvac. Just repost on this thread and I'll show you how to adjust the vacuum from the VCV to the modulator using the Mityvac.

braverichard · #54 01-15-2006, 12:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

The smooth shifts are the result of the elimination of any leaks at the 3-2 valves on the top of the valve cover. Any leakage up there will drop the vacuum to the VCV slightly and might have resulted in reduced transmission modulator vacuum depending on the original vacuum level to the VCV. In my specific case, the vacuum to the VCV was 12". So, any leaks at the 3-2 valves would not have reduced the vacuum below 12" therefore any leaks at the 3-2 valves would not have been noticeable.

The second line that is connected to the VCV (not the modulator......it's on the side of the transmission........at the very end of the hard vacuum line from under the hood) is the vent. It's connected to the side of the VCV and it goes into the cabin. This provides a source of "clean" air for the VCV and it is less likely to be taking on soot from under the hood. You probably should reconnect it..........you won't affect the performance of the vehicle at all.

Now, you may not like the SD the way that it is..........the shifts may be too "soft". I didn't like mine and decided to firm them up a bit. If that's the case, you need a Mityvac. Just repost on this thread and I'll show you how to adjust the vacuum from the VCV to the modulator using the Mityvac.

Ha Ha... "may not like the SD the way that it is" - I absolutely love it! No need to firm it up. Drives just like my 1999 Toyota Avalon (now sold) did. Smooth shifts you can't detect are my type of deal. I don't particularly enjoy the "jerks" of the car caused by so-called "firm" shifts. Either way though, this car is a vacuum machine on wheels, so getting a mityvac is not optional - it is compulsory!

Thanks for everything man. I'll reconnect that vent line just to avoid any soot from getting in there. This is great. Again, everytime I put off a slight "retunning" of this car, I feel like kicking myself after I get the task(s) completed because spending a small amount of time generates a huge change in the positive direction.

Now we need to work on killing the entire black box on the valve cover since it isn't doing anything anymore.

Brian Carlton · #55 01-15-2006, 01:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by braverichard

Thanks for everything man. I'll reconnect that vent line just to avoid any soot from getting in there. This is great. Again, everytime I put off a slight "retunning" of this car, I feel like kicking myself after I get the task(s) completed because spending a small amount of time generates a huge change in the positive direction.

Now we need to work on killing the entire black box on the valve cover since it isn't doing anything anymore.

Anytime.........glad it worked out for you.

I don't know of any way to easily eliminate the box because it's attached to the bracket for the IP linkage.

braverichard · #56 01-15-2006, 01:22 AM

I examined it for a few minutes and realized that due to that attachment it won't be a "plug and play" operation.

84300DT · #57 01-21-2006, 09:04 PM

installed the kit today..

Brian Carlton · #58 01-21-2006, 09:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 84300DT

installed the kit today..

Wow, you better go and put some old diesel oil on that thing..........I'm going blind..............

84300DT · #59 01-21-2006, 10:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Wow, you better go and put some old diesel oil on that thing..........I'm going blind..............

heh. i know! it may inspire an attempt at cleaning the engine ...

83-240D · #60 01-23-2006, 01:23 PM

my 81 td has a hose disappearing south from the egr. where does that go? is that accounted for in the kit?

also, will there be a problem just plugging the t connectors with an object and not having the kit?