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  #16  
Old 05-14-2006, 11:23 AM
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Hatteras,

I have an MB manual or had one that said VO could be used. It was an owners manual for a 1964 190D that said : In the tropics it was OK to use vegatable oil but reduced power would be noted. If U are interested, I'll try to find the manual and see exactly what is printed in it.

So if the VO is heated it should be the same as the tropics. As the VO goes thru the IP, I think it gets heated enough as soon as the engine is hot.

P E H

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  #17  
Old 05-14-2006, 01:37 PM
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Look for the manual-I would love to see what it says.
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  #18  
Old 05-14-2006, 01:50 PM
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thanks

thanks...

I think the oil is heated somewhat in the IP.... but I am sure it is heated in the fuel injector... the injector is near the cylinder and in the cylinder exhaust gas is 1200 deg.... so the tip of the fuel injector must be hot... and
since the stream of fuel is so small there must be a transferance of heat...

So after the first explosion the fuel must be hot..... the only reason I can see to have a secondary fuel tank and heat it is for the winters in colorado... but the grease I get is liquid and its liquid even in the winter....


anyway I am now up to 500 miles... and my 300sd 1983 runs better on wvo than it did on diesel... at night when it was cold I would blow black smoke on the way home..... and when i would try to get on the interstate or pass I would blow black smoke... and every now and then it would just smoke for the fun of it.... now it does not smoke at all with the veggie oil... absolutely no smoke and it runs great....
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  #19  
Old 05-14-2006, 03:21 PM
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I have 23,000 miles on V80 blend (80% wvo/20% RUG) that is only heated with a coolant heat exchanger. Last week I started on V90. The engine has 423,000 miles.

I had nearly 10,000 miles on completely unheated, unblended wvo on my 1981 300SD, but it was taken out by a deer. It was running great when it died.

My wife had 9000 miles, then I switched her over to diesel for winter. She's now back on V90. Her injectors were coked and I just cleaned them yesterday. All my cars suffer from injector coking, but so far, it has not caused any issues- they just look bad.
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Former cars:
1984 300D 445k (!!) (Strider) Original (and not rebuilt) engine and transmission. Currently running on V80 ( 80% vegetable oil, 20% petroleum products). Actually not, taking a WVO break.
1993 300d 2.5 275k. Current 120/day commuter
1981 300SD 188k (Hans) Killed by a deer
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  #20  
Old 05-14-2006, 07:39 PM
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Did you find the manual yet?
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  #21  
Old 05-14-2006, 07:47 PM
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Yeah I'd like to see that manual! That would be interesting, to see what it says exactly.
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  #22  
Old 05-14-2006, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mister Byrnzoil
I would think a WVO Forum (not just a sticky thread as it is currently) would be a welcome addition here. Many people are buying old mbz diesels expressly for WVO use. The infopop site among many others is a great resource, but not really MBZ specific.

I'm sure WVO/SVO/Blenders here would like a place to discuss their particular (ahem) 'art'.
I'll second that motion.

A thread for all alternative fuels would be great. I'm sure it would see a lot of activity.
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  #23  
Old 05-14-2006, 08:42 PM
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Arrow

Not really keeping track of miiles on unheated WVO, but it's almost 1 year so that's a good 10,000miles.

This is on a one tank no modifications unheated 85 300D.

I did add a facet 12v fuel pump.

I am in south Florida, and plenty of times I run just fine on straight WVO, tank after tank. I get ready to drive to a gas station to put in my 2 -3 gallons of RUG after pumping in my filtered WVO, and I get cheap or environmental about it, and never make it to the pump.

It may lose a little bit of power , but if I want to go fast I take my bike.

Figure I save about $40 per week. IN a year thats $2,080.

I paid $1,900 for the car.
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  #24  
Old 05-15-2006, 02:05 PM
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I have had long discussions with a mechanic friend on this subject. As fas as I can see there are really two reasons for wanting to heat the oil prior to burning it. One would be to lower the viscosity, and the other would be to help prevent coking. Now when you blend with 20% RUG you are thinning the oil and thus reducing viscosity. In addition RUG has a higher combustion temperature than regular dino diesel. So a 20% RUG blend is going to benifit from that higher combustion temperature as well. The increased temperature will help to reudce a tendancy to coke up. I have been running V80 blend for almost a year, parked the car for the winter though. I would have to estimate about 3000-4000 miles on blend in a single unheated tank without any problems. Also I live in Wisconsin, the reason I parked for the winter, as they use salt on the roads here.
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  #25  
Old 05-15-2006, 06:18 PM
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So it sounds like all you WVO folks need to go and drive for a while. I am serious, I've not heard of anyone putting more than 10k miles on unheated VO. Is it because you start with old junkers that can't go any further anyway, or is unheated VO actually accumulating in the ring lands and there is no longer enough compression to start anymore?

And diesel purge is not going to clean this crap out. Your best bet is to not put cold oil into your combustion chambers. This means blending VO with a thinner (thinner than diesel) like kero, jet A or gasoline, or heating it and not piping it in until the VO and the engine is hot.

Until the engine is hot, your oil will not completely burn up and some unburned fuel will get to the cylinder walls. It happens with diesel, it will happen with VO.
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  #26  
Old 05-15-2006, 07:21 PM
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some questions

1. how did you put in the 12v fuel pump?
2. tenknots how often are you cleaning the fuel injectors?

old300d, no one is putting cold vegie oil into there cylinders...
the fuel injector is hot and it has to transfer heat to the oil before it
injects it... after all the fuel injector is right in the cylinder and the explosion produces 1200 deg exhaust... so the tiny bit of fuel must be heated
in the injector... even if it only stays there a fraction of a second..
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  #27  
Old 05-15-2006, 08:28 PM
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What I don't understand is why more of the "just pour it in" crowd don't use a simple heat exchanger and/or electrically heated setup? It is fairly simple to make your own heat exchangers, both coolant and electric. Sure, the startup cycle will still be cold WVO but an electric heater would bring the temps up pretty quickly. Simply heating the WVO this way would likely prolong the coking and buildup on piston rings, etc. Seems too easy not to do. RT
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  #28  
Old 05-15-2006, 10:02 PM
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Actualy a marine transmission or oil cooler works just dandy for such a task.
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  #29  
Old 05-15-2006, 10:03 PM
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Elsbett has a passat TDI with a one tank conversion that has 200K miles on vo. Starts up on COLD VO since the one tank conversion is basically just a modification of the injectors but it still starts on regular unheated vo or blended with kerosene or gasoline as elsbett recommends for cold weather.

http://ctbiodzl.freeshell.org/votdi.html

http://www.folkecenter.dk/plant-oil/converted_cars_examples.htm
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  #30  
Old 05-15-2006, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwthomas1
What I don't understand is why more of the "just pour it in" crowd don't use a simple heat exchanger and/or electrically heated setup? It is fairly simple to make your own heat exchangers, both coolant and electric. Sure, the startup cycle will still be cold WVO but an electric heater would bring the temps up pretty quickly. Simply heating the WVO this way would likely prolong the coking and buildup on piston rings, etc. Seems too easy not to do. RT
Yeah thats what i decided to do on my 87 300D. I have a fattywagon electrotherm inline before the IP. But my last setup was a mistake because i used vinyl hoses and those cant withstand heat very well. So i used transmission cooler lines which can withstand heat better!

Will keep you guys updated on that!

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