617 oil cooler line short cuts. - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Hit Man X · #16 08-30-2006, 11:49 AM

If you need a good used cooler, drop me a line. Probably less than $60.

tangofox007 · #17 08-30-2006, 01:20 PM

And I have some good, used OE hoses. Only 140k miles in service. Not leaking when removed. $35 delivered.

KylePavao · #18 08-30-2006, 02:48 PM

On the turbo engines with more oil running hotter I think the oil cooler is needed...

However, my 300D had the same issue. I bypassed the oil cooler fully, and machined a threaded piece of metal line to connect the two ends together...

I WOULD NOT use clamps and hose...the pressure is very high, and I had a bad experience were a line burst through the clamps and shot oil all over my engine bay. Thank the Lord that I shut it down VERY quickly.

I've read posts that the NA engines never came with oil coolers in Europe, only the ones sent to do livery service in hot climates received them. IMO, on the NA engines, it isn't necessary to have the oil cooler. On a Turbo engine, I have no idea.

All I know is don't use clamps. Thread a piece of pipe so that the metal ends of the OC lines can screw on. Apply loctite, and it should be set. Mine has been working for 1 year, no issues

tangofox007 · #19 08-30-2006, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KylePavao

Thread a piece of pipe so that the metal ends of the OC lines can screw on. Apply loctite, and it should be set.

How does that solve the problem: leaking hoses?

Hatterasguy · #20 08-30-2006, 05:16 PM

I am not cheap, the problem isn't the money, what are new lines like $100ish or something like that. The problem is getting them out.

I know several things are going to happen, the cooler has not been touched since 1982 and has been in salt every winter since then. So the threads will strip. I have never had any luck with engine mounts on W126's the bolts always seize on me.

I don't feel like spending a weekend under a shot, oil covered, rusty old car when I don't have to.

Remember I work in the marine field, I'm going to use clamps and hose that are way overkill for this. Besides with a flare there is no way its going to blow off. If it leaks I'll just buy replacements and do it the right way.

I'll post pics, something came up so it looks like I'll be doing this, this weekend.

punky · #21 08-30-2006, 06:59 PM

I remember an ex serviceman posting here a couple of years ago about fixing leaks in the field. He said they would use a dremel tool to make a few cuts lenghthwise on the crimp so the ferule with it's barbs could be pulled back enough to enable hose removal then install new hose and recrimp ferule with hose clamps.

Rashakor · #22 08-30-2006, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

Remember I work in the marine field, I'm going to use clamps and hose that are way overkill for this. Besides with a flare there is no way its going to blow off. If it leaks I'll just buy replacements and do it the right way.

I'll post pics, something came up so it looks like I'll be doing this, this weekend.

Actually I think Hatterasguy is onto something. Flaring high pressure hose is a safe and durable way to join pressurized oil hose (think hydraulic equipment) as well as dangerous chemical (think agricultural equipment) in high stress, high vibration, long operation equipment. Heck, an ag sprayer can be working for days at a time at pressures of 50-200bars (yes bars not punny PSI) circulating an oily mess of pesticide. Given that you flare the correct hose (Mercedes uses Nylaflow for oil lines and AC lines exactly like the ag equipment mentionned above) for the job(hot oil), the flare may actually be a much superior option than the solid steel line (I had consider the same thing but for the ATF). Keep an eye on pressure loses if you rerout the hoses far from the engine, though!

02HD677 · #23 08-30-2006, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hatterasguy

I don't want to remove the engine mount if I can avoid it because the bolts are probably seized. I have never had good luck with W126 engine mounts.

+1

Hatterasguy · #24 09-04-2006, 10:56 PM

Update:
Fired old smokey up and brought her into the garage. The upper line started to weep real nice after a few months of sitting so it was due. As I feared the upper fitting on the oil cooler came off amazingly easy after being sprayed with PB blaster. Except that the threads came with it.

Hmm I say to myself, I have been down this road before.

Since the AC is long dead and I don't plan on fixing it, I yanked the seized compressor and there was a lot more room than I thought. After that I was planning on pulling the lines and having new ones crimped on, but since the oil cooler threads are now stripped thats not happening. So this is what I did:

Got the old dremel out and ground off the crimps on the metal outlet and inlet lines. Found some nice barbed ends, that 5/8 hose fits on rather nicely. So off the the marina I go, grabbed some Sheilds 2500580 wire bound wet exhuast hose, and four stainless hose clamps. Total cost was $5, but I don't pay anywhere near list. Since the cooler was totaly fubared I moved on to plan C by pass it completly. So thats what I did, cranked the hose clamps down tight and it seems to work well. I'm a bit worred that the oil will soften the hose up, so I will keep an eye on it. But exhuast hose is close to impossible to kill so I'm not that concerned. Burst pressure is like 250psi ish, so I'm fine in that regard, not to mention its only about 8in long.

This isn't ment to be a fix, its just a band aid in order to keep a tired car on the road without a lot of time and money. Also this is a winter car, it only sees a handfull of days in the 80's, and is never really driven on the highway. AC is dead, so there is not really a load on the cooling system.

If this was a good car I would have done what I did when I ran into this exact same problem with the SDL. Purchase new oil cooler lines, and since the cooler was stripped a new one of those as well.