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  #1  
Old 08-29-2006, 06:43 PM
Hatterasguy's Avatar
Zero
 
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Location: Milford, CT
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Talking 617 oil cooler line short cuts.

The 300SD's oil cooler lines are extremly shot. I have to do something about them before they blow. They look like a pita, the engine mount has to come out it seems. If I do remove them I'm going to have a local place crimp on new lines.

But here is an idea, what kind of oil pressure do these things run at? 50psi? Why couldn't I just cut the hoses off in place. Then get some hydrolic hose and double clamp it to the metal fittings? Heck I could even flair the fitting a bit.

This car isn't worth much to me and I really don't want to have to get under it and go through all that trouble if there is a short cut.

Two high quality hose clamps could handle 50psi.

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  #2  
Old 08-29-2006, 07:38 PM
Hit Man X's Avatar
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Thumbs up

I spent about $110 for my lines... new OEM units. This is one place not to cheap out on...

You can have a new mount, shock, and lines installed in about 90min. It's not too hard to do.
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  #3  
Old 08-29-2006, 07:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hit Man X View Post
I spent about $110 for my lines... new OEM units. This is one place not to cheap out on...

You can have a new mount, shock, and lines installed in about 90min. It's not too hard to do.
I did the same thing...has been great for over 1.5 years so far.
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  #4  
Old 08-29-2006, 07:57 PM
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Some nitwit added a bypass oil filter to one of the oil cooler lines on my dead 240 engine (probably why it seized ) using a barb T and clamps. It seemed to hold and not leak, but I would spring for new lines. I just got a pair for $90 in the parts section.
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  #5  
Old 08-29-2006, 08:16 PM
1985 300SD Sady's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
The 300SD's oil cooler lines are extremly shot. I have to do something about them before they blow. They look like a pita, the engine mount has to come out it seems. If I do remove them I'm going to have a local place crimp on new lines.

But here is an idea, what kind of oil pressure do these things run at? 50psi? Why couldn't I just cut the hoses off in place. Then get some hydrolic hose and double clamp it to the metal fittings? Heck I could even flair the fitting a bit.

This car isn't worth much to me and I really don't want to have to get under it and go through all that trouble if there is a short cut.

Two high quality hose clamps could handle 50psi.
No need to remove anything to remove the oil cooler lines...

Just undo the connections at the oil filter housing and the oil cooler, then that clamp under the power steering pump (10mm bolt) and snake the lines out of there one by one... Thats the way I did it, worked great.

If (by chance) you need to replace the motor mounts, go ahead and do the lines at the same time... it will be easier.

My car had hose clamps holding the oil cooler lines together when I first got it... didnt hold worth a crap. I just removed the lines and had new (equivelent) line crimped on at the local hydraulic shop. I think it cost me $36.

They have been holding up well (about 2 years later)
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  #6  
Old 08-29-2006, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
But here is an idea, what kind of oil pressure do these things run at? 50psi? Why couldn't I just cut the hoses off in place. Then get some hydrolic hose and double clamp it to the metal fittings?
I've seen it done on a w123 300D without any issues.
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  #7  
Old 08-29-2006, 08:26 PM
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I don't want to remove the engine mount if I can avoid it because the bolts are probably seized. I have never had good luck with W126 engine mounts.

Well if they are not that bad I'll just take them out.
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  #8  
Old 08-29-2006, 10:56 PM
Craig
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I would be afraid to trust clamps unless I really didn't care about losing the engine. On a winter beater, I would probably just keep the old lines until/unless they actually leaked significantly. How long are you planning on keeping it?
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  #9  
Old 08-29-2006, 11:06 PM
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Planing on selling it in May, the lines are leaking pretty bad. I just don't want to have to deal with one blowing. Last winter I watched them, this winter its ify something needs to be done.

I trust hose clamps to hold the exhuast line on a $1m boat, and for various underwater applications.

I'm thinking a few feet of hydraulic line, double clamped onto the fittings. I can just cut off the hose with a cut off wheel, and clamp the hoses on.

I am leaning towards this because when I did the cooler lines on the SDL, I stripped the fittings on the cooler itself. Stuff just does not like coming apart on these old cars and I really don't want to get involved in a big project. I am half tempted to make up some plates and just block the whole cooler off. This is a winter car what does it need an oil cooler for? It takes forever to even get the coolant to 80C.
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  #10  
Old 08-30-2006, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
I am half tempted to make up some plates and just block the whole cooler off.
Make sure you understand the implications of doing that with regards to oil flow through and around the thermostat.
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  #11  
Old 08-30-2006, 01:16 AM
ForcedInduction
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
Two high quality hose clamps could handle 50psi.
The oil pressure has a max of 7bar (101.53psi).

I won't say they can't hold it. My TD's lower hose was held on by a single hose clamp for over two years before I noticed it.

I will say, don't risk it.
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  #12  
Old 08-30-2006, 10:25 AM
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Give it a shot

If you are not going to keep the car then the risk of the shortcut is a lot less than replacing the lines.

I say that because the chance of stripping the threads on the oil cooler are pretty high and a new oil cooler might cost more than your "beater" is worth. Also, if you are worried about your motor mount that's another can of worms.

I am sure that you can get some high pressure line that is about 15mm id and some clamps that will seal it. The tricky part will be to cut the metal lines so that you have enough line to clamp the hose on before the bend. you can probably put a little flair on the end so that the line won't slip off.

So do it and see how it works. Your worst case is that you will have to buy a couple of new lines and do it the proper way.
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  #13  
Old 08-30-2006, 10:57 AM
Admiral-Third World Fleet
 
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If you do this, pay attention to the new lines and tighten them after a few days of use. I put an oil cooler on my Rabbit some years back using worm clamps and a few days later one of the lines popped off althogh it was tight when I installed it. That was the one time I was glad I had an IDIOT light.

Rick
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  #14  
Old 08-30-2006, 11:02 AM
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Aftermarket and dealer installed A/C systems use hose clamps and they seem to work for years trouble free. Track down a set of A/C clamps and see what the difference is. The hoses they use may work too.
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  #15  
Old 08-30-2006, 11:18 AM
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You have a $1m boat and your trying to cheap out on oil lines? It's the cheap guy who ends up paying the most. I would definitely put new ones on it.

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