Glowplugs... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

kerry · #1 01-19-2007, 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1985Az300DTurbo

KRGC, I think Brian is right on about removing the injector lines first. I did it the hard way and it took me a couple of hours with a lot of aggrivation

I starting out with a box end wrench (which was really a pain because of the limited access) and eventually purchased a set of those cool ratcheting wrenches with the tilt heads to finish the job

It would have been much easier to take the lines off first. my biggest challenge was removing and installing the terminal nuts on the plugs without dropping them into the abyss between the block and IP! In the end, I found that using a 6 -8 inch long piece of rubber hose to grab the nut while was a real lifesaver. Good Luck.

Fill the abyss with rags so you wont lose your nuts.
I did mine without removing the injector lines. It wasn't that hard but the sharp corners on the line holders can be irritating. It might be adequate just to remove the holders to minimize the vocabulary necessary for the job.

Bill Ladd · #2 01-19-2007, 07:13 AM

If you decide to change them without removing the injector lines, ratcheting wrenches such as these will make the process much more quick:

I've changed mine twice now without removing the lines. The first time I used regular box-end wrenches, second with the ratchets -- cut the time by more than half!

Brian Carlton · #3 01-19-2007, 09:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lux

If you decide to change them without removing the injector lines, ratcheting wrenches such as these will make the process much more quick:

I've changed mine twice now without removing the lines. The first time I used regular box-end wrenches, second with the ratchets -- cut the time by more than half!

I'd sure like to know the trick to getting a hand down between the injector lines to remove and install the 6mm nut? I've never figured out how to do that and will gladly spend the 10 minutes to remove and reinstall the lines.

I recently did #5 and it took 60 minutes just for that one plug. I could not get my hand down past the throttle linkage and, eventually caved in and disconnected it at the firewall. With the injector lines in place, I'd still be out there.

Stevo · #4 01-19-2007, 10:17 AM

I remove the hard lines as a "unit" then use a gear wrench for the rest. No bleeding necessary. (knuckles or fuel system

)

rrgrassi · #5 01-19-2007, 11:04 AM

I just did mine and left the hard lines in place. It was not too bad, but I sure do want some ratcheting box wrences now. I was able to use a deep 12mm socket on the #1, and the same socket with a u-joint on the #2. Rest were with the regular 12mm box.

yellit · #6 01-19-2007, 12:10 PM

The swivel or non-swivel ratcheting wrenches are a must for this...A piece of clear flexible hardware store tubing with the little hex hold nut pushed into one end of a foot long section will get the nut started (a poor mans u-joint..I saw a helicopter mechanic do this)...always good to have a light colored towel under the plugs just in case (The Abyss)....If you do it like this a couple of times....no need to take the lines off...Got a new Lowes home center right across the street....that speeded things up ...

KRGC · #7 01-19-2007, 08:17 PM

About the glow plug reemer, where can you get one? What causes carbon build up?

Bill Ladd · #8 01-19-2007, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I'd sure like to know the trick to getting a hand down between the injector lines to remove and install the 6mm nut? I've never figured out how to do that and will gladly spend the 10 minutes to remove and reinstall the lines.

I recently did #5 and it took 60 minutes just for that one plug. I could not get my hand down past the throttle linkage and, eventually caved in and disconnected it at the firewall. With the injector lines in place, I'd still be out there.

I just use the ratcheting wrench in that size. IIRC, it's 8mm. Works well for me. I also cut the loop connectors and turned them in to forked connectors. That way, the 8mm nut doesn't have to come all the way off. (A trick I learned right here on Diesel Discussion!)

I also have skinny hands. And I'm lazy as all getout and stubborn, too.

vstech · #9 01-19-2007, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lux

I also cut the loop connectors and turned them in to forked connectors.

You mean you INTENTIONALLY damaged official MB OEM parts???
Oh the HUMANITY!
Now you KNOW "the MB" intentionally designed it this way for a reason. Here you go hillbillying a fine german engineered vehicle.

KRGC · #10 01-19-2007, 09:14 PM

Glow plug reemer?

JimmyL · #11 01-20-2007, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRGC

About the glow plug reemer, where can you get one? What causes carbon build up?

Quote:

Originally Posted by KRGC

Glow plug reemer?

We are starting page 3 on this thread, and you have never stated what type of car you have. It is not in your sig nor your profile. So, many questions about a reamer, but the type of car makes a difference.....
W123:
M603:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Glow-Plug-Reamer-Engine-Repair-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ002QQitemZ120077629765

Bill Ladd · #12 01-19-2007, 09:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

You mean you INTENTIONALLY damaged official MB OEM parts???
Oh the HUMANITY!
Now you KNOW "the MB" intentionally designed it this way for a reason. Here you go hillbillying a fine german engineered vehicle.

Wait'll you see the boss hood scoop I'm putting on her, or the Gabriel HiJacker air shocks in the back!

'Course right now she's sitting on blocks in the front yard waiting for my new Mickey Thompson shod Cragar SS rims to come in.