Thanks guys. Im still fairly confused here as to exactly what needs to happen. This is my only car right now so it has to be a smooth one-session job :-)

This all is for the 85 300D federal.

If I remove the spring and tensioner only (not the upper slide rail), can I slide the big gear forward enough to get the woodruff out and swap the new one in? This sounds like the method being used in Scott98's original post. He makes no mention of the slide rail. but he is following the FSM.

What exactly is the impact puller talked about in the FSM to extract guide rail the roller bolt?

dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

most likely. Removing the spring prevents the tensioner from advancing beyond its current position and possibly allowing the tensioning cylinder to come out of the housing if something were to happen.

you should be fine with simply removing the spring as a precaution. If you find that you need more slack to get the key out, remove the tensioner (unlikely)

__________________

do an advanced search for the same procedure by the member 'zeke' - this will give you a good idea of how much play you will need.

__________________

Guys,

Just getting ready to do the job. Keys in hand. I feel confident about my abilities. My injectors are out now so that will make it even easier.

Question #1: Where in relation to the TDC mark on the cam gear is the key located? I want to have it accessible at a good location.

Question #2: Can I turn the chain without the tensioner spring installed? Are there any dangers i should know about but that may not be obvious?...sort of like dont turn the chain CCW

Thanks!
dd

__________________
-------------------------------
'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

On the front of the cam gear, you will see a mark. Line it up at 12 o clock. Do this before removing the tensioner spring. Having the mark at 12 will have the woodruff slot at 12. You'll see it when you are looking.

A great fix. No need to change the timing chain (added cost & risk) just because it is slightly worn. These are rugged chains, unlikely to fail. I will do this on my 1984 300D since I am currently replacing the tensioner rail. I might add a few deg extra advance, to account for future wear. Similarly, when I put a new "timing set" in my 1965 Dart, (V-8 gas), I set the cam sprocket at 4 deg advance (3 choices) for better mileage and for future wear.

__________________
1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans