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  #16  
Old 08-05-2008, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskeydan View Post
Good info.

Any fear of the cam moving (rotating) when the gear comes off?
The cam is still held into place fairly well. I shouldn't move.

Scott

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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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  #17  
Old 08-05-2008, 01:17 PM
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Where does one get the offset key? Are they available in multiple degrees of offset? Are they very expensive?
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #18  
Old 08-05-2008, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcounts View Post
Where does one get the offset key? Are they available in multiple degrees of offset? Are they very expensive?
They are available on this site. Just click on "buy parts." They are available in multiple degrees of offset. I think they are around $10 or so. Cheaper than $120 for a new chain.

Scott
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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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  #19  
Old 08-05-2008, 06:52 PM
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This site, Mercedes dealerships and most any independent repair shop can order them.
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  #20  
Old 08-05-2008, 07:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott98 View Post
They are available on this site. Just click on "buy parts." They are available in multiple degrees of offset. I think they are around $10 or so. Cheaper than $120 for a new chain.
And easier to install too!
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown
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  #21  
Old 01-05-2009, 11:22 PM
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I cannot located the article in the CD FSM that covers this operation and removing the chain tensioner.

Does anyone know if it is on the CD offhand?

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
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'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #22  
Old 01-05-2009, 11:31 PM
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05-215.pdf
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  #23  
Old 01-06-2009, 12:20 AM
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Sweet, thank you!

I can see that the above method differed a bit from the FSM routine. For example, the FSM specifies to take the camshaft gear totally off? It looks to me like the above method does not remove the big gear, just moves it forward just enough. Since the gear is not coming off in the above method, does the rail have to come out?

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #24  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:36 AM
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bump
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #25  
Old 01-07-2009, 12:42 AM
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Pretty sure you can do it without removing the rail.
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  #26  
Old 01-07-2009, 09:30 AM
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The tensioner is what needs to be removed.
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  #27  
Old 01-07-2009, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ForcedInduction View Post
The tensioner is what needs to be removed.
The tensioner itself, or just the spring? It looks like they are just removing the spring in the FSM. but then again they remove the rail in the FSM too.

Just making sure...
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #28  
Old 01-07-2009, 11:34 AM
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I slid the sprocket all the way off. I removed the tensioner also. Can you just remove the spring? Removing the thermostat housing makes getting the tensioner back in easier. Not saying it's correct, it's the way I did it.
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  #29  
Old 01-07-2009, 11:39 AM
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I just removed the spring to change mine.
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  #30  
Old 01-07-2009, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
The tensioner itself, or just the spring? It looks like they are just removing the spring in the FSM. but then again they remove the rail in the FSM too.

Just making sure...

the spring, then the entire tensioner. If you have a ratcheting tensioner, it will not recess enough to provide slack. Although you may not need much for this job.

FI has an older engine and I do not know which vehicle you are referring to. The ratcheting type is found on later models - as a rule.

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Last edited by jt20; 01-07-2009 at 01:38 PM.
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