How to Set IP Timing via the Drip Tube Method - Pictorial - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Ara T. · #1 02-10-2007, 01:19 AM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120064281651&category=35625 This ebay ad says the tube will work on 617 engine until 1983. Is he mistaken or can you really not use this on an '85 300D? If I'm correct I have a 617.952.

#2 02-10-2007, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ara T.

This ebay ad says the tube will work on 617 engine until 1983. Is he mistaken or can you really not use this on an '85 300D? If I'm correct I have a 617.952.

I don't see why the drip method won't work on 83-85 engines. It's the same basic injection pump. They are meant to use the RIV method, a much more accurate method but needs very costly tools.

PanzerSD · #3 02-10-2007, 02:22 AM

Ok, I don't have any old mercedes injector line readily available...what do I need to buy to make a drip tube?

Scott98 · #4 02-10-2007, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PanzerSD

Ok, I don't have any old mercedes injector line readily available...what do I need to buy to make a drip tube?

I bought my drip tube on ebay for $15. Phil might sell them here too. I didn't see them in the tool catalogue though.

erubin · #5 02-10-2007, 01:32 PM

Yes typo on my part. I have a 617 engine. Glad to read that these instructions are perfectly adapted to my engine as well, the instructions were for a 616 engine.

Regarding drip tube for newer models check read this from Baum Tool website:
http://tools.baumtools.com/search_result.jsp

DIESEL DRIP TUBE Tool #936-0223
Use to adjust start of fuel delivery.Up to 1983 models. See #601-0821 for newer models.

Scott98 · #6 02-10-2007, 01:36 PM

There are larger photos in the DIY section:
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM615OM616InjPumpTiming

Follow the instructions for the turbo charged models. You can make a drip tube out of old injector line but they are cheap so why not just buy one?

jt20 · #7 11-10-2008, 01:47 AM

thanks Scott, nice write up.

I wanted to add that when you are adjusting the pump, you want to be Decreasing the fuel flow from your drip tube only. I noticed that once the pump gets to the point of no drops, it will not start flowing until it brought back much further than previously advanced.

I advanced my timing as well and am noticing different start-up behavior. not cold enough to be 'bad', per se.

dannym · #8 11-10-2008, 11:38 AM

You don't really need a drip tube.
What your looking for is the point where the piston rises in the bore and starts the high pressure fuel delivery to the injector. The transition from full flow to dripping happens very quickly.
Personally I just look down into the bore and look for the point where the fuel just starts to rise up (Start of Delivery).

Another way to set timing is by using the Factory Timing Tool, part #601 589 05 21 00 .
You set the timing at 15 degrees ATDC. Then you remove the bolt from the side of the IP and insert the tool. You move the pump back and forth until it locks in. Then you bolt down the IP in place. Perfect timing every time!

Danny

#9 11-10-2008, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

You don't really need a drip tube.
What your looking for is the point where the piston rises in the bore and starts the high pressure fuel delivery to the injector. The transition from full flow to dripping happens very quickly.
Personally I just look down into the bore and look for the point where the fuel just starts to rise up (Start of Delivery).

The bubble method, its inaccurate and shouldn't be used by anyone.

A drip tube is only $15, or free if you have an extra injector tube laying around to cut.

Stevo · #10 11-10-2008, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ForcedInduction

The bubble method, its inaccurate and shouldn't be used by anyone.

And you are sure of this statement because....you have actually tried it??

#11 11-10-2008, 10:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevo

And you are sure of this statement because....

...I know better than to waste my time on inaccurate shotgun methods dreamt up by people too lazy to do things correctly or spend a few dollars on the proper tool(s).

How hard is it to take a spare injection line and use a hacksaw to make this:

Or, you could spend the $20 and buy that tool directly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Diesel-Fuel-Timing-Engine-Parts-Repair-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35625QQihZ002QQitemZ120318124154

Stevo · #12 11-11-2008, 12:07 PM

[QUOTE=ForcedInduction;2017043]The bubble method, its inaccurate and shouldn't be used by anyone.

Please excuse my crappy OCR program but here is what the late Marshall Booth had to say about the bubble method.

at~ Ved 03 Jul 2002 12:36:38 -0400 ~- rom Marshall Booth
Subject Re [DIESEL] IP Timing

Mike, Here are several ways to time the pump (its almost NEVER out of time except by about 1/2 the amount of chain stretch you have and that usually isn’t any problem until the chain needs to be replaced). The bubble method is the easiest!

I’ll include all 3 WAYS that I know of to do it.

> Bubble method!

> On the subject of diesel timing. If you are replacing the pump or rebuilding the engine. The simplest and most accurate way of setting the
> pump is. Disconnect_the fuel line going into the pump from the filter.
> Take the spring and plunger out of #1 delivery valve, put the delivery
> valve back in and snug it down, hold the the pump linkage in the full
> open position. If you have the drip tube install it on the delivery
> valve, if not use the injector line in such a way that it is pointing
> away from the engine. It you don’t mind the taste of diesel you can blow
> through the fuel line or use low air pressure. Put the open end of the
> injector line in a glass of water and watch the bubbles. Turn the engine slowly until the bubbles stop and check the timing mark. After
> tightening the pump recheck. This method is really more precise than it
> needs to be and although it may sound complicated it is very easy. Bob

#13 11-11-2008, 05:55 PM

Marshall Booth wasn't always right. He thought you could get more horsepower out of the engine by turning up the ALDA!

75Sv1 · #14 11-11-2008, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannym

You don't really need a drip tube.
What your looking for is the point where the piston rises in the bore and starts the high pressure fuel delivery to the injector. The transition from full flow to dripping happens very quickly.
Personally I just look down into the bore and look for the point where the fuel just starts to rise up (Start of Delivery).

Another way to set timing is by using the Factory Timing Tool, part #601 589 05 21 00 .
You set the timing at 15 degrees ATDC. Then you remove the bolt from the side of the IP and insert the tool. You move the pump back and forth until it locks in. Then you bolt down the IP in place. Perfect timing every time!

Danny

I was wondering if you had a picture of what bolt to remove? I have the tool, but have never seen any instruction for its use.
Tom