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  #1  
Old 11-16-2007, 02:02 PM
Chad300tdt's Avatar
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Help needed with rotten SLS lines?

I noticed some hydraulic fluid on the garage floor under the car and found these lines (in pics) are rotted. The reservoir is still full and the spot on the floor is about 5" in diameter since lastnight. How tough is it to replace these and what else should I do while I'm at it (I was going to replace the accumulators). Does anyone know how much these lines cost? The rot in the photos is all I can find.

Which part numbers will I need? I'm not sure. Russian Part Number Site

I've read that it won't destroy anything if I drive with a leak in the sytem. Is this true? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Attached Thumbnails
Help needed with rotten SLS lines?-fullshot.jpg   Help needed with rotten SLS lines?-closeup.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 11-16-2007, 02:10 PM
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Thumbs up

Are your rubber lines bad or the hard? I can't really tell from the pictures nor the description.
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  #3  
Old 11-16-2007, 03:16 PM
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The hard lines at the top of the pic are rotted right after the bracket. I circled the rot in red.
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Help needed with rotten SLS lines?-closeup1.jpg  
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
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  #4  
Old 11-16-2007, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad300tdt View Post
The hard lines at the top of the pic are rotted right after the bracket. I circled the rot in red.
JB Weld to the rescue!!!!
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  #5  
Old 11-16-2007, 04:54 PM
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I am pretty sure those are fuel lines not hydraulic lines.... They both look like and are in the right place to be fuel lines....

If they were hydraulic lines they would have blown open and leaked out all the fluid in no time being that corroded....that is a very high pressure system.
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  #6  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:23 PM
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The leaking fluid is hydraulic fluid (definitely not diesel). Here is another pic from the other side of the rear. The top circle is the rotted lines, the bottom circle is where they are entering the SLS valve.
Attached Thumbnails
Help needed with rotten SLS lines?-otherside.jpg  
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  #7  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:31 PM
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Those lines are a dealer item. I have a vague recollection of a forum member cutting and splicing those lines but the union fittings were hard to find since they are metric. If you search the forum deeply enough, you should find that thread. It shouldn't harm the system to keep driving it with a leak.
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  #8  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
Those lines are a dealer item. I have a vague recollection of a forum member cutting and splicing those lines but the union fittings were hard to find since they are metric. If you search the forum deeply enough, you should find that thread. It shouldn't harm the system to keep driving it with a leak.
I still vote for jbweld. It might hold up as a temporary fix till the correct part cat be found. Perhaps he can get away with using a fuel hardline?
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:51 PM
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Thanks, I guess I'll call the dealer parts desk tomorrow and see how much$$.

Do you think a hydraulic shop could make new lines?
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
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"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

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Last edited by Chad300tdt; 11-16-2007 at 05:53 PM. Reason: add comment
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2007, 05:52 PM
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I've used epoxy in lots of applications and been very happy with it including on the hot water radiators in my house. The pressures in that system are very high and I don't think there's a snowball's chance in hell of JB Weld holding up to those pressures unless it were backed up with hose clamps etc. I don't think the effort is worth it.
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2007, 08:40 PM
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Take a look at this thread - maybe send a message to cscmc1. Sounds like he was recently down this road.

FS: 1980 EURO 300D in IL

Posted over in CARS for sale:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cscmc1 View Post
Yes, I am indeed being cautious. The car has been nothing short of dead-reliable to me, but as with any 20+ year old car, there is always that learning curve. I bought the car and had it trailered to IL, just to be safe. It was a good move, as one of the SLS lines started leaking a few weeks after it arrived, which would have been catastrophic if it had happened on the road. I replaced the line and went on tinkering and fixing the little things that I could find to fix. I suspect the car would make it to just about anywhere, but I am not willing to guarantee that, of course.

I'll take some under-the-hood pics, but it's certainly not what I'd call pretty. It looks like a typical semi-high-mileage Benz diesel that has not been detailed. It could benefit greatly from a good steam cleaning.

Thanks for your interest, by the way; where are you from?
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2007, 11:05 PM
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I went though this not that long ago on the silver and blue wagon Dee8go has now- I had ordered the lines with the full intention of replacing the entire pieces (both feed and return were leaking in the exact same spot as yours). the part numbers supercede from 123 to 124 #'s and the 124 lines come with plastic fittings on the ends- basically its not just plug and play, other parts will need to be upgraded too to match up to the new lines, plus the lines come curled up, you have to straighten them out as best as you can then put the bends in place yourself without kinking the lines, its not as easy or fun as it sounds

after messing around for a few hours with the new lines and realizing what else was going to need to be done to make them work, the owner and I decided just to remove the SLS from the car.
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  #13  
Old 11-17-2007, 01:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
I've used epoxy in lots of applications and been very happy with it including on the hot water radiators in my house. The pressures in that system are very high and I don't think there's a snowball's chance in hell of JB Weld holding up to those pressures unless it were backed up with hose clamps etc. I don't think the effort is worth it.

I have to agree not a good idea for use on this particular job. As much as I like JB weld no matter what you use it on the surface needs to be clean and degreased for it to adhere. This would be tough to do on a leaking hydraulic line. Even if you drained the reservoir left over fluid in the tubing would still leak.
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  #14  
Old 11-17-2007, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnhef View Post
I went though this not that long ago on the silver and blue wagon Dee8go has now- I had ordered the lines with the full intention of replacing the entire pieces (both feed and return were leaking in the exact same spot as yours). the part numbers supercede from 123 to 124 #'s and the 124 lines come with plastic fittings on the ends- basically its not just plug and play, other parts will need to be upgraded too to match up to the new lines, plus the lines come curled up, you have to straighten them out as best as you can then put the bends in place yourself without kinking the lines, its not as easy or fun as it sounds

after messing around for a few hours with the new lines and realizing what else was going to need to be done to make them work, the owner and I decided just to remove the SLS from the car.
Thanks for the response with your experience. I had a feeling things wouldn't be that easy. Between having to replace the extra items and dropping the subframe to get the new lines in, I guess I'm going to take the advice of another member here and splice in new sections using a bubble flare tool and 9000 PSI splice fittings.

I'm going to order the stuff for the lines and some accumulators and try to get this done ASAP.
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2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
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1991 - 300TE
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1985 300CD - Gladys
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  #15  
Old 11-17-2007, 10:02 AM
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If you have the time and ability, taking some pictures of the process and fittings might be useful to other members in the future. Do you have a source for the fittings yet?

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1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
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