Help needed with rotten SLS lines? - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Johnhef · #31 12-17-2007, 09:29 PM

My intent was really to fix the SLS on the wagon but after getting the lines and starting into everything it was just too much to take on and not enough time to do it in. A lot more parts would have to have been ordered and updated to make the new parts from MB fit correctly.

It would have been nice, the lines only cost me $40. I thought I was getting off easy

My wagon now has SLS and isn't really too noticible to me- except when I fill it up with 15 or so batteries to take to scrap, it levels right out nicely. My 560SEL I had, also had the SLS removed but I assume also had the springs swapped out as well. It felt like every other 126 to me.

Chad300tdt · #32 12-17-2007, 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Johnhef

My intent was really to fix the SLS on the wagon but after getting the lines and starting into everything it was just too much to take on and not enough time to do it in. A lot more parts would have to have been ordered and updated to make the new parts from MB fit correctly.

It would have been nice, the lines only cost me $40. I thought I was getting off easy

My wagon now has SLS and isn't really too noticible to me- except when I fill it up with 15 or so batteries to take to scrap, it levels right out nicely. My 560SEL I had, also had the SLS removed but I assume also had the springs swapped out as well. It felt like every other 126 to me.

I have plenty of time to spend since I can live without my car until it's done. Having never done this type of job before, I thought it would be much easier than it has been. I certainly understand why there are vehicles with the SLS removed.

Under load is when I appreciate the SLS the most. I think the rotten lines must have started to let loose after my most recent load. I picked up about 300 sheets of glass from a green house that was being torn down near me. It handled the weight very well.

Chad300tdt · #33 12-19-2007, 07:12 PM

I finished putting everything back together today. When I filled it up and tried to bleed the system, I realized that when I put the lever to "F" it didn't raise the car and "L" didn't lower it.

I get a stream of fluid coming out of the bleeder and fluid is recirculating into the reservoir, so I assume the pump is OK and the lines are OK. None of the fittings are leaking, so I can only imagine that I must have done something stupid with the SLS valve when I rebuilt it. I followed pictures, so I believe I put the cam back in correctly and the piston only went in one way. Before I did anything to the system, when the lever on the valve was lifted to "F", you could clearly hear the fluid flowing (like a water faucet). I don't hear anything like that now and no effect on the height.

Does anyone have any suggestions of what to look at next or should I just take the valve apart again?

mobetta · #34 12-19-2007, 10:45 PM

As I recall- the bleed valve is not a bleed valve at all, but there to release pressure on the system before you open it. to bleed mine when I swapped out the trailing arms I filled the reservior and jumped on the rear bumper a bunch of times with the engine running.

that was all i did, and my sls works fine.

well-
'cept for the bouncy accumulators.

Chad300tdt · #35 12-20-2007, 02:52 PM

It's possible that I swapped the lines when doing the unions. I imagine if I did, the system would pressurize, but the valve lever wouldn't work. As soon as I can get out to the car, I will verify that the lines are not crossed. If they are I can easily swap them since the unions are right next to each other. Otherwise I guess I'll be opening the SLS valve body again.

I read that the SLS needs to be bled in 2 stages, the second being with 300lbs in the rear to compress the struts and let the air out of them. If it is a self bleeding system, where does the air release from? Does it burp out into the reservoir?

Douglas.Sherida · #36 12-20-2007, 03:08 PM

Chad,

Disconnect the valve lever arm from the adjusting rod and try spinning the lever arm on the valve 180 degrees (toward the back of the car) and see if the actuators respond.

IIRC, its pretty easy to reassemble the valve body with the cam in the wrong orientation.

Chad300tdt · #37 12-20-2007, 03:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Douglas.Sherida

Chad,

Disconnect the valve lever arm from the adjusting rod and try spinning the lever arm on the valve 180 degrees (toward the back of the car) and see if the actuators respond.

IIRC, its pretty easy to reassemble the valve body with the cam in the wrong orientation.

I did think to try that and it made no difference. I still haven't attached the adjusting rod. I want to make sure the car lifts before I connect it and try to adjust it. Do you think having the feed and return lines swapped would create my problem?

Douglas.Sherida · #38 12-20-2007, 03:25 PM

Honestly, I don't know.

But, I'd definitely check it if it were me.

Chad300tdt · #39 12-27-2007, 01:55 PM

I checked the lines I spliced and realized that I did swap them accidentally. Now that the lines are correct, the SLS works very well. I took it for a test drive and floated over everything I used to feel.

I got the new expansion tank installed too. Now to get started on the oil cooler lines and motor mounts.

Chad300tdt · #40 12-28-2007, 10:44 AM

Parts used. Not shown are the accumulator line from the dealer and the coil of 6mm line.

A few pics showing the ramps and jack stands:

SLS valve before rebuild

SLS valve after rebuild

I still need to get photos of the unions and the valve with the new linkage. I'll get them when I fine tune the linkage adjustment this weekend.

Chad300tdt · #41 12-29-2007, 07:56 PM

Here are the pics after I adjusted the linkage.

The unions:

SLS valve (the bends aren't pretty, but they work.

mobetta · #42 01-02-2008, 10:06 AM

sweet- good job saving your SLS, enjoy.

Chad300tdt · #43 01-02-2008, 11:20 AM

Thanks Mobetta, I'm definitely enjoying the SLS and I did what you said about bouncing the bumper to bleed the system and it worked.

Thanks for the tip. I also noticed that it got better after I drove around for a while. I guess it finished bleeding while on the road.

Note: check out how much oil dripped from my oil cooler lines, in a few weeks time, in the photo of the front wheel.

I doing them next.

JimmyL · #44 01-02-2008, 11:40 AM

Nice job Chad, and thanks for the pics. Isn't working SLS great!! Nobody should ever even consider junking it.
Beautiful color wagon too! Nice.....

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chad300tdt

Note: check out how much oil dripped from my oil cooler lines, in a few weeks time, in the photo of the front wheel.

I doing them next.

Um, Chad, we do need to talk about those wheels.......

Chad300tdt · #45 01-02-2008, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JimmyL

Nice job Chad, and thanks for the pics. Isn't working SLS great!! Nobody should ever even consider junking it.
Beautiful color wagon too! Nice.....

Um, Chad, we do need to talk about those wheels.......

Thanks Jimmy. About the wheels ... my last car was a tuned '98 Acura 3.0 CL.

I do love the look of bundt wheels and have grown to love the hubcaps too. I tried to order the wheels in silver powder coat, but they didn't have them in the correct offset so I have chrome. Sorry, I know you are experiencing a double stab to your purist heart

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