Save the fittings that are on the end of the line now and reuse them.

Get some 6mm line, 2 flare nuts and a matching union. The place you order the line and fittings from can make sure the nuts and the union match. As long as you don't damage the fitting as you remove it from the reservoir, you can bubble flare it on to the new spiced line.

When I damaged a flare nut, the only solution for me was to mail it to the place I ordered the lines from and have them match it. It pays to be very careful in the first place.

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Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

For the time it takes I usually take thick grease and coat the metal brake lines especially. The local climate takes quite a toll. This is on usually older vehicles I expect to have a long time. I just use a paint brush to apply.

This could be extended to the leveling system metal lines if one expected to have their car for a long time. The grease seems to stay on pretty well and slows oxidation down to almost nothing. It also seems to travel a little or the oil in it does. So even if you do not get perfect coverage it still covers well. Worth the effort in my opinion.

That's a good tip. The brake lines are the only lines that didn't rot through under my wagon. It's been in salted road winters since 1985 and everything under the subframe was shot (fuel and SLS). I guess some kind of spray would work best to get to the lines under there.

__________________
Chad
2013 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon
OBK#44
"Pleasure in the job puts perfection in the work." - Aristotle (384-322 B.C.)

SOLD
1985 300TD - Red Dragon
1986 300SDL - Coda
1991 - 300TE
1995 - E320
1985 300CD - Gladys
2006 Nissan Pathfinder LE
1998 Acura 3.0 CL

You could mix a little oil with the grease if you are going to spray it. Heating it up in a container of very hot water will help to further reduce the viscosity for spraying. . A schultz or rocker coating spray gun will work. Cheap item new or a guy might loan one.
The mix will kind of sputter out the nozzle and deposit up to a foot or so away easily.
I have a hydralic gun designed to spray straight grease from a twenty gallon bucket. The schultz gun will not quite handle that viscosity.
We have used the schultz gun as well several times. . Reduction with oil went well. A little slow but just doing lines does not take all that long.
Drive the car on a dusty road after spraying with the thinned down grease. The dust will tend to increase the viscosity again.
We found over the years that nothing reduces the rate of corrosion better than petroleum products applied over it. In fact most other methods tend to speed it up.

http://www.swagelok.com/ makes excellent fittings, and you can locate a distributor here http://www.swagelok.com/distributors/locate_dist.aspx.
I had a line go bad on me and I already had some 1/4" line so I purchased two 6mm to 1/4 couplings. I think that was the size. They have 6mm to 6mm also. Worked good. I tried do brake lines like this and when it was inspected for a sale the guy said thats a no no for brake lines even though it works. Not sure if its a no no for the hydraulic lines for the suspension. I believe the fittings are rated for high pressure for this application. It worked for me and saved me from messing with fittings on the control valve which were hard to get to.
If nothing else this will buy you time. Myself, I'd do this before any epoxy or jbweld, just my oinion.

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Currently driving a very clean 1985 300SD from the West Coast.

Couplings are a safety issue on brake lines. No safety issue on the hydralic suspension. Even just good compression fittings might get by on them.
The unit pressure is very high but the cross sectional area is very small. I very much doubt that there is more than 100lbs effective pressure to separate the coupling with such a small line internal cross section.
I guess I could do the calculations to be exact. The line pressure is say 1500 lbs per square inch. You are dealing with an area much smaller than 1/15 of a square inch.

I am doing the same job, replacing lines. I have however have decided to change to reg hydraulic flexible hose. My hydro shop has a fitting that fits the accum. and adapts it to JIC but the male on the end of the steel line I am having trouble getting. Anyone know where I can get this fitting? I suppose I could run hose right to the hydr shock but I think it is the same size.

why in the world would you change the fittings? they are standard, and they are simple... just change the hose.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

The fittings are metric and the shop here does not have one of them. I needed the size to see if I could find them. Turns out they are 16x1.5mm It is not so much the size but the way they seat

Links to two related threads with additional information about repairing SLS lines, flaring, tools, etc, etc:

Tips for Making Successful Bubble Flares

metric flare tool, fittings?

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Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

here is a pic of a 23yr old return line (147k miles). You can squeeze the hose and your hand will be soaked in hydraulic fluid. I started noticing an odd leak where I park my car and this was the culprit. Surprisingly all the other lines for the system are still ok at this time. No leaks, no sweating and no swelling from the lines. I replaced it using a fuel hose rated at 50psi. It has been 1 week and so far so good.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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2001 E55

2001 E320 Sedan

2001 Subaru Legacy

2006 SLK280

2016 Subaru Outback 3.6

I have just completed this line splice but I only had a single flare tool at my disposal. Leak test was a success. Now to clean up and get some sleep.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.