My left rear wheel tilts in like this \, what to adjust? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JimmyL · #16 03-15-2007, 01:36 AM

Maybe it's just me, but I can't see the tires at all from those pics......

t walgamuth · #17 03-15-2007, 07:00 AM

me neither.

tom w

Brian Carlton · #18 03-15-2007, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

The inner fender sheet metal is 20" off the deck.

It would make sense to me, not knowing much about car suspensions, that the spring is the dominant force in that system. So the spring is too short, pulling the control arm up too much, pulling the wheels in??

dd

The inner fender sheet metal is not 20" off the deck because the tire is approx. 25".

So, we're looking for a dimension of something between 24" and 27". If the dimension is at the high end of this range, the vehicle is sitting high in the rear...........resulting in positive camber. But, it would have to be quite high to achieve this.

My '86 sits higher than desired by about 1/2" or so........and it's at 27".......the camber is very close to zero.

dieseldan44 · #19 03-15-2007, 09:14 AM

I'll measure again.

Can anyone see the pics?

dieseldan44 · #20 03-15-2007, 11:29 AM

25.75" from the floor to the top of the fender.

I put the tape measure right against the outside of the wheel measuring up to the fender.

My previous measurement was on the inside equivalent, right under the sway bar.

dd

dieseldan44 · #21 03-15-2007, 06:21 PM

Planning on doing some additional inspection tonight - is there any way to check if the springs are correct without removing them?

#22 03-16-2007, 03:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

..as viewed from the rear of the car

I tried some searching, but I dont know what this condition is called. Toe, camber?

It's tilted in enough so that when I kneel down behind the car I can make it out with my eye. Its at least a few degrees. What can I check / adjust to alleviate this in the meantime before getting an alignment?

I just replaced my rear axles and sway bar links. The car could have well done this prior and I just wasnt at that level of detail on it yet.

thanks as always,
dd

PS - I had a much more exaggerated problem when I took my car of of jackstands - everyone here told me it was normal. This tilting is what remains after drving the car ~20 miles or so.

(sorry for all the threads, im working pretty much full time to get the 82 on the road for the NE spring)

Try replacing the back of your Mercedes shocks it could it can change the curve on your camber and can lift your rear end... It worked on me...

whunter · #23 03-16-2007, 04:08 AM

If the fuel tank is full, spare tire + tool kit are there, and the car is on a LEVEL floor???

The only answer is...

Excess lift in the rear:

* Wrong spring shims.
* Wrong shocks.
* Wrong springs.

Have a great day.

dieseldan44 · #24 03-16-2007, 08:12 AM

My tank has maybe 5-8 gallons in it, and the spare tire is in there. No first aid kit though :-)

Awesome, Im happy its narrowed down. Can someone suggest what order I investigate?

I would think that checking the shocks is first. Thats the easiest to remove I think, and therefore the easiest for someone to replace incorrectly.

Ill have to do some research on how to remove the springs, which I know I at least would need a spring compressor. Any suggestions on where/how to learn?

dd

Brian Carlton · #25 03-16-2007, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

My tank has maybe 5-8 gallons in it, and the spare tire is in there. No first aid kit though :-)

Awesome, Im happy its narrowed down. Can someone suggest what order I investigate?

I would think that checking the shocks is first. Thats the easiest to remove I think, and therefore the easiest for someone to replace incorrectly.

Ill have to do some research on how to remove the springs, which I know I at least would need a spring compressor. Any suggestions on where/how to learn?

dd

At first glance, the number of 25.75" doesn't appear to be excessive, however, I don't have a good baseline for the W-123. Can you take a photo of it and post the photo? I think we need to see the size of the fenderwell opening above the tires.

The suggestion of the shock as the culprit is likely erroneous. A brand new shock will provide a small amount of lift to the rear of the vehicle. If a brand new shock is the culprit...........you cannot easily make the argument that you need a "weak and old" shock to cure the problem. You could remove the two rear shocks and see how much the rear of the vehicle drops. But, a drop of about 1/2" would be typical and would not be indicative of a problem with the shocks.

If a PO installed shocks that provide more lift than the stock Bilsteins, then there might be an argument to change them. But, personally, I do not see the shocks as offering sufficient lift to make the difference.

It's possible that springs with greater lift were installed.........or a thicker spring pad was installed........by a PO at an earlier time.

dieseldan44 · #26 03-16-2007, 10:23 AM

Brian - can you not see the tires in my earlier post because the picture qualiaty is bad, or because the picture will not load?

Either way I will repost a pic ASAP.

I saw this description in another thread, is this a correct (safe) procedure for removing rear springs (if I need to):

Quote:

Originally Posted by babyjames

If you're doing both sides, the safest, and easiest, way to remove the springs is to drop the rear of the rear subframe by unbolting the differential mount where it attaches to the crossmember.

Jack the rear of the car up and support w/jackstands.

1. Remove the rear wheels
2. Remove the rear shocks
3. Remove the rear brake caliper fixing bolts and hang the calipers from something stationary.
4. Remove the rear sway-bar link fixing nuts where the link meets the bar, and separate the link from the bar.
5. Put your floor jack under the differential; put just a tiny bit of pressure on the diffy.
6. Remove the four 13mm hex head bolts which secure the diffy mount to the crossmember.
7. Slowly lower the jack.
8. When the springs fall out, stop lowering the jack.
9. Put it back together the way it was when you started.

No spring compressor. No worries.

Jay.

Jay - if you read this, abolsutely no offense intended - Im just scared of those big springs since ive never done it before and just want to double check. This seems like a perfectly logical procedure...

dieseldan44 · #27 03-16-2007, 10:29 AM

Since im away from the car at the moment, here are photos that have been lightened to highlight the tires.

Brian Carlton · #28 03-16-2007, 10:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

Brian - can you not see the tires in my earlier post because the picture qualiaty is bad, or because the picture will not load?

Either way I will repost a pic ASAP.

I saw this description in another thread, is this a correct (safe) procedure for removing rear springs (if I need to):

The previous photos were taken from the rear of the vehicle and do not show the height of the body as viewed from the side. Additionally, the photos are too dark to determine camber of the wheels.

I cannot comment on the procedure as I've not done it. However, the subframe would need to drop quite a bit to release the springs in the manner described. There would be significant bending occurring in the two foward mounting points for the subframe in this condition. This may or may not be acceptable.

Brian Carlton · #29 03-16-2007, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

Since im away from the car at the moment, here are photos that have been lightened to highlight the tires.

I took the photo of the LR tire and adjusted the brightness. I do not see any positive camber from that photo. However, the resolution is not good due to the distance involved.

Please take a 24" level and place it across the face of the tire vertically.

Report back with results. You may not have any issue........other than the appearance of the tires.

dieseldan44 · #30 03-16-2007, 10:43 AM

ok - ill take some more pictures ASAP.