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  #1  
Old 06-07-2007, 12:48 PM
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Looks like its time to pop the springs out. Grrr.

Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
How many bumps on the spring shims?
What do you mean winmutt?
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2007, 01:08 PM
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Popped out the shocks, two different types...they are both gabriel, but with different PNs and diefintely different amounts of force needed to press down.

Looks like Bilsteins are in my future.

I need to try and identify if my springs are original or correct...

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #3  
Old 06-11-2007, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Popped out the shocks, two different types...they are both gabriel, but with different PNs and diefintely different amounts of force needed to press down.

dd
I don't want to distract you from your problem, but what you describe about your shocks is not related to the camber issues. You should replace them so they are the right part number and have the same dampening affect. Bilstiens are a good choice.

TimK
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  #4  
Old 06-11-2007, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuhlrover View Post
I don't want to distract you from your problem, but what you describe about your shocks is not related to the camber issues. You should replace them so they are the right part number and have the same dampening affect. Bilstiens are a good choice.

TimK
Tim,

Good point - Bilsteins are on their way. Id like to eliminate that as a variable. I am going to just replace all the other stuff around that affects ride height that is obviously amiss like my subframe mounts and diff mount. Both are original and extra crispy.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #5  
Old 07-06-2007, 12:02 AM
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Arrow Update

Done since last post:

- installed new diff mount (needed to be changed)
- installed new subframe mounts (also needed to be done)
- installed 14.5 mm spring pads (had 19mm in before)
- installed Bilstein Comforts in rear (old shocks were wrong)
- had an alignment done (today)

Well, the car drives great, but, the rear wheels still have positive camber.

When measuring with a level, there is about a 3/8" gap if I place the level against the top sidewall (measuring gap at lower sidewall). It is visible by eye as well. Its better than it was before, but still there. Both wheels are identical.

I am going to go back tomorrow and ask the mechanic who did the alignment - I asked them to do a 4 wheel alignment, so I'm wondering if they considered it 'in spec'. Ill find out more tomorrow. I think the spec is 0 camber..

My latest thoughts:
1.) Is this a big deal now? Will it hurt my rear tires or be a handling hazard?
2.) Do I need to wait for stuff to settle in at all?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

thanks again,
dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #6  
Old 07-06-2007, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Done since last post:

- installed new diff mount (needed to be changed)
- installed new subframe mounts (also needed to be done)
- installed 14.5 mm spring pads (had 19mm in before)
- installed Bilstein Comforts in rear (old shocks were wrong)
- had an alignment done (today)

Well, the car drives great, but, the rear wheels still have positive camber.

When measuring with a level, there is about a 3/8" gap if I place the level against the top sidewall (measuring gap at lower sidewall). It is visible by eye as well. Its better than it was before, but still there. Both wheels are identical.

I am going to go back tomorrow and ask the mechanic who did the alignment - I asked them to do a 4 wheel alignment, so I'm wondering if they considered it 'in spec'. Ill find out more tomorrow. I think the spec is 0 camber..

My latest thoughts:
1.) Is this a big deal now? Will it hurt my rear tires or be a handling hazard?
2.) Do I need to wait for stuff to settle in at all?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

thanks again,
dd
The addition of new subframe mounts, diff mount, and rear shocks all cause the back end to lift somewhat. So, the reduction from 19mm to 14 mm on the pads was largely offsetting.

I don't believe the sedan ever had the 19 mm pads installed for any reason from the factory. Either it was the 14mm or the 9.5mm depending on the spring.

So, clearly, you should have the 9.5mm pads to reduce the camber to proper spec (maximum of zero).
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  #7  
Old 07-06-2007, 08:16 AM
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Thanks Brian. Looks like I get to hone my spring pad removal technique once again At least it gets easier the shorter the pads get.

dd
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #8  
Old 06-10-2007, 01:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
Looks like its time to pop the springs out. Grrr.



What do you mean winmutt?

There are little rubber knobs on the spring pads (which are found where the spring meets the chassis) that you can see and/or feel by hand. Three knobs indicate a 19mm pad, IIRC, which is the thickest available.

There are 9.5, 14 and 19mm pads available. Click here for link to Phil's selection of pads.
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  #9  
Old 06-10-2007, 02:01 PM
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Thanks Lux.

Ive got three nubs.

I think im going to just man up and remove the springs this afternoon. No sense beating around the bush. The shocks dont have enough power to resist the huge force of the springs thats cuasing the wheel to be tilted in.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #10  
Old 06-10-2007, 02:18 PM
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My car had the the rear tires like that.

.
Hello Everyone

My 81 300D had the same thing going on with it's rear tires.
They were both tilted in at the bottom.
Or, had too much positive camber.

The problem was caused in my car by an improper front end alignment.
I thought the rear frame of the car had been bent in an accident or something.

But after the front end alignment the rear tires also returned to the correct alignment.

The front end alignment raised the front of the car some, which changed the balance point of the car and transfered more weight to the rear of the car.

I really did not think the front end alignment would effect the rear so much,
but it did.

Thanks
Still not right after all these pills !
RichC
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  #11  
Old 06-10-2007, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichC View Post
.
Hello Everyone

My 81 300D had the same thing going on with it's rear tires.
They were both tilted in at the bottom.
Or, had too much positive camber.

The problem was caused in my car by an improper front end alignment.
I thought the rear frame of the car had been bent in an accident or something.

But after the front end alignment the rear tires also returned to the correct alignment.

The front end alignment raised the front of the car some, which changed the balance point of the car and transfered more weight to the rear of the car.

I really did not think the front end alignment would effect the rear so much,
but it did.

Thanks
Still not right after all these pills !
RichC
.
Wow...what a revelation. Interesting for sure. I just went through the trouble of removing one of the springs - Ill post a pic in a bit.
__________________
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #12  
Old 06-10-2007, 08:52 PM
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Popped Out the springs

Took an hour to pop out the springs...not hard at all. I used the Wiki article whunter forwarded me to.

Well heres the pics (2nd post):

W123 rear spring experts...need some help...

Now to figure out if they are the right ones. They have the same number of turns as the pics on worldpac. The spring pads were 9.5mm, mercedes OE parts.

Now to figure what else to replace in the area while the patient is open. Subframe bushings for sure - theyre original.
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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car
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  #13  
Old 06-10-2007, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post
The spring pads were 9.5mm, mercedes OE parts.
Hmm, and they had three nubs? I always thought three nubs meant 19mm.

The reason I ask is that mine sags just a bit and mine have three nubs (already done subframe bushings and dif mount). Was hoping to fix it with new shocks and taller pads. If the three nubs do, in fact, mean 9.5mm, well then I might have a shot.

Heck, maybe you and I just need to swap springs!!
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  #14  
Old 06-11-2007, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseldan44 View Post

Now to figure out if they are the right ones. They have the same number of turns as the pics on worldpac. The spring pads were 9.5mm, mercedes OE parts.
You previously mentioned that you have pads with "three nubs". However, this does not correspond with 9.5 mm pads. Can you check this data and reconfirm what you have?

If you have the 19mm pads, the simplest solution is to reduce the pad thickness to the 14mm pads. The vehicle will reduce height by about 1/2" and the camber should just drop back into specs.
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